Things To Do in Li Jiang

Old Town

When visitors and travel guide writers gush about Lijiang, they're really referring to its raison d'être, the old town (gucheng), built over 800 years ago during the Southern Song dynasty. A delightful maze of twisting cobblestone streets and Naxi-style homes but more and more shops, usually of the souvenir variety, the old town still affords glimpses of traditional Naxi life as residents go about their daily lives despite the staggering crowds and the increasingly commercial tenor of the whole place.

Unlike many ancient towns in China, Lijiang does not have a city wall. It is said that the first ruling family of Lijiang, surnamed Mu, prohibited the building of a wall around the old town because drawing a box around the character of mu turned it into the character kun, meaning "difficulty," and was therefore not auspicious. What the old town does have, however, is a web of flowing canals fed by the Yuquan springs in today's Black Dragon Pool to the north. These streams often flow into several three-pit wells scattered around the old town with designated pits for drinking, washing vegetables, and washing clothes. You can see such a well at the Baima Long Tan in the south of town. The Yican Quan, for drinking water only, can be found on Mishi Xiang next to the Blue Page Vegetarian Restaurant. The old town used to have several water mills as well, but the only one standing today is a reconstructed water wheel at the old town entrance. In the center of town is Market Square (Sifang Jie), ringed with shops and restaurants. During the day, Naxi women come here to trade, and on certain evenings, residents will gather here and break into spontaneous circle dances.

From Market Square, a cobblestone path leads uphill along the eastern flanks of Shizi Shan (Lion Hill), which separates the old town from the new. This area, known as Huang Shan, is one of the region's oldest neighborhoods and is a lovely place to wander, as it's a relatively tourist-free zone. At the top of the hill is the 33m-tall (108-ft.) Wangu Lou; admission is ¥15 and it's open from dawn to dusk. Each meter represents 10,000 of Lijiang's 330,000 people; it is said to be the tallest wooden pagoda in China. Supported by 16 massive 22m-high (72-ft.) pillars made from old local wood, the square pagoda has 13 soaring eaves (representing the 13 peaks of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain range) and over 2,300 Dongba designs carved into the structure. There are some stunning views of the old town, new town, and majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain range from the top.

Anchoring the southern part of the old town is Mu Fu (Mu's Residence; ¥45; 9am-6pm). The former home of the Naxi ruling family, which ruled Lijiang for 22 generations until 1723, the residence was actually completely destroyed in the Qing dynasty (1644-1911) and, until the earthquake of 1996, the houses of ordinary Naxi stood in the palace's stead. Post-earthquake authorities apparently determined that World Bank rebuilding funds would be better justified by an imperial residence that could attract legions of tourists rather than by banal domestic housing; the result is the sprawling residence you see today. Stepped into the side of Lion Hill are six main halls separated by courtyards said to resemble those of the Forbidden City, including a meeting hall where the clan chiefs met and a library of Dongba writings. From the back of the residence, steps lead up the hill to Wangu Lou.

Lost in Lijiang -- If you ever get lost in the old town, just find a stream and walk against the current, as it will invariably lead you back to an entrance of the town.