Things To Do in Limoges

Don’t be put off by the outskirts of Limoges, which are frankly gray and dismal. In the town center you’ll find lovely half-timbered districts (seek out the Quartier de la Boucherie, the former medieval butcher area around Rue de la Boucherie), buzzing with shops and restaurants, quaint old churches, top-notch museums and the refurbished 19th-century Halles (covered food market), easily one of the best in the region.

Sadly, the porcelain workshops no longer offer opportunities for the public to get their hands dirty. However, you can still admire the result of the rich deposits of kaolin (known locally as “white gold”) found near Limoges in the 18th century. More than 30 porcelain manufacturers have set up operations here through the years. Many of the most famous maintain shops that offer good-quality seconds at reduced prices, as well as items from out of date collections, and, of course, the new collections. One of the best is the Fondation Bernardaud, 27 av. Albert-Thomas (tel. 05-55-10-21-86), where as well as the ceramics, regularly changing exhibitions of “super super contemporary” (as the director said) artistic porcelain are on display. Guided visits are available all year (reserve in advance online; check website for times as they vary). Other options are the Magasin d’usine Raynaud, 14 ancienne rte. d’Aixe (tel. 05-55-01-77-65), and Porcelaines Philippe Deshoulières-Lafarge, 21 rue de la Mauvendière (tel. 05-55-50-33-43), which highlights the eco-friendly nature of its raw materials and production processes.