Things To Do in Lodz

To get your bearings, start out at one end of Piotrkowska (it doesn't matter which) and walk to the other end. Piotrkowska is where it all happens in Lódz. Meander down the various side streets. You'll find houses and buildings in all states of repair and disrepair. It's an urban-rehabber's dream, and someday, this all might be trendy shops and boutiques. In addition to the numerous pubs, restaurants, and coffee bars, Piotrkowska is lined up and down with turn-of-the-last-century neo-this, neo-that architectural gems. The house at no. 78 marks the birthplace of renowned pianist Artur Rubinstein, the city's most famous local son.

The former textile mills, now the Manufaktura shopping mall, as well as the History of Lódz Museum and the former Jewish ghetto, lie to the north of the city center, beyond the terminus of Piotrkowska at the Plac Wolnosci, identified by the statue of Polish national hero Tadeusz Kosciuszko at the center. At the other end of Piotrkowska is the highly recommended Cinematography Museum, situated in another sumptuous former industrialist's mansion.

Lódz offers one of the most unusual shopping opportunities in Poland and possibly all of Europe. In an effort to revitalize the city, the former textile mills have been converted into an enormous shopping mall and entertainment facility, Manufaktura (Jana Karskiego 5; tel. 42/664-92-60; www.manufaktura.com; daily 10am-9pm), complete with a 15-screen multiplex theater, a luxury hotel, a climbing wall, Europe's longest fountain at 300m (984 ft.), an aquarium, and an on-site sandpit for beach volleyball. The 19th-century red-brick factory architecture is stunning, and the restoration work a model for similar reconstruction efforts around the country. If you're a fan of urban rehab or just want to spend the day at the mall, stop by and take a look.

Lódz has a lively cultural calendar jammed with art and film festivals. Check with the tourist information office to see if something big is happening while you are there. The highlight is November's "Camerimage" (www.pluscamerimage.pl) international film festival. The "Four Cultures" festival (www.4kultury.pl) in September celebrates the city's Polish, Jewish, German, and Russian roots.

Cafes, Pubs & Clubs

Lódz is a shot-and-a-beer town in the best sense of the term, and if you're looking for a spot to drink, carouse, and club, you needn't go any farther than Piotrkowska: 4km (2 1/2 miles) of restaurants, cafes, and bars that open early and close late. One reliable suggestion is Lódz Kaliska (Piotrkowska 102; tel. 42/630-69-55), a rowdy bar and club filled with inventive photography on the walls and packed with university students and other revelers. Jazzga Jazz Club (Piotrkowska 17; tel. 42/630-27-44), through a passageway and up some metal stairs, is a lively bar and music club with frequent live rock acts but, it should be noted, rarely jazz. Art & Caffe (Piotrkowska 83; tel. 694/512-511), in a little passage off the main street, is a relaxing, welcoming spot for coffee and has the added benefit of a reliable, free Wi-Fi connection.