Only one five-star hotel has the Royal Warrant from the Queen for Hospitality Services. Only one has been run by the same family since 1910. Only one hosted Kate Middleton, the wife of a future king and mother of another, in her final night as a single girl before she walked down the aisle of Westminster Abbey. This is the Goring, exclusive and classic, assiduously appropriate in style and rich in expensive fabrics, down to the Gainsborough silk on the walls. Peter the Doorman has been wearing his bowler hat in the foyer for nearly half a century, and the statue of the founder gets a new flower in its lapel every day. The effect is something like an English country house, especially as you look out oversized windows at back gardens, kept lush as your personal enclave. You just can’t get more blue-blood English than this. Its afternoon tea (£39) has a four-month wait.