The relaxed, town house–style storefront, a study in natural woods and candle-lit purity, has been going for 30 years, enduring most likely because it hasn’t caved to Soho trendiness and its stupendous wine list is priced fairly. Chairs don’t match, staff isn’t in uniform, and the menu is hand-scribbled daily with a haste that belies the effort the chef puts into sourcing farmhouse meats and preparing seasonal ingredients. Expect choices along the lines of skate wing with cauliflower and capers, free-range Aylesbury duck breast, and artichoke spaghetti with wild garlic and almond pesto, plus the occasional nose-to-tail adventure. Superb dessert cheeses are selected from area farms. It’s very London.