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Stripped-down Italian expertly conceived and delivered like tapas: This simple, classy conceit—and its chipper buzz, and that long, alluring bar in front of the open kitchen—have made it a mainstay in Soho for over a decade. The menu might be printed twice a day to keep up with the availability of fresh ingredients (or with the adventurous ideas: squirrel ravioli has been known to make appearances, while sea bream carpaccio and cream of langoustine and red prawn risotto appear more reliably). If one of them fails to impress, you didn’t pay much for it, so it’s easy and fun to try another. The rich concepts hail from around Italy, and the region of origin is marked, like wine, to help guide your palate. The wine list, too, isn’t ignored. It’s among the best in town for this price.