This is my firm favorite in Soho. Owner Martin Morales quit his job at Disney’s European music division to pursue his true passion: food. Now he is a TV personality, a cookbook author, and runs this hopping, cheerful Peruvian hangout that pours the best pisco sour in town. Flavors are indescribably punchy, citrusy, and unrepeatable anywhere else you’ve eaten. Favorite small plates include the don ceviche sea bass made with limo chili tiger’s milk, and the succulent anticucho skewers of beef heart marinated in panca chili marinade. Once your tongue tastes its first vibrant zip, you’ll feel compelled to come back. They now give diners a spoon to lap up leftover tiger’s milk—probably because I kept asking. A second, spacious location is just north of the Old Street Tube stop (2 Baldwin St., EC1), while the owner’s similar Andina is in Shoreditch (1 Redchurch St., E2; www.andinalondon.com; [tel] 020/7920-6499; Tube: Shoreditch High St. or Liverpool St.).
17 Frith St., W1
Our Rating Neighborhood Soho Hours Mon–Sat noon–11:30pm; Sun noon–10:15pm); hot kitchen closed Mon–Thurs 3-5pm. Reservations suggested Transportation Tube: Piccadilly Circus or Tottenham Court Road Phone 020/7292-2040 Prices Small plates £7–£14 Cuisine Type Peruvian Web site Ceviche
Map17 Frith St., W1 London
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