The sort of invisible hidey-hole you have to be told about, Ducksoup feels like “your” spot. Indeed, when you first open its old door, the first thing you see is a stack of LPs and a record player, the sole sound system, that might be playing Grace Jones’ “Nightclubbing” or Toots & the Maytals’ “Funky Kingston.” The metal grille on the windows and life-beaten walls make it look like a greasy cafe that would sling a fry-up at you, but instead, there’s a funky wine list and solid, whole-food selections such as grilled artichoke with lemon and capers, rabbit pappardelle, and chargrilled bream. The room feels like a London that went out with Thatcher, but dishes sit solidly within London’s 21st-century gustatory passions.