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The sort of invisible hidey-hole you have to be told about, Ducksoup is barely marked, and indeed, when you first open its old door, the first thing you see is a stack of LPs and a record player, the sole sound system, that might be playing Grace Jones’ “Nightclubbing” or Toots & the Maytals’ “Funky Kingston.” Today’s menu hangs above the turntable on an office clip. The metal grill on the windows and life-beaten walls make it look like a greasy caff that would sling a fry-up at you, but instead, there’s a funky wine list and solid, whole-food selections such as steak tartare, grilled artichoke with lemon and capers, rabbit pappardelle, and chargrilled bream. The room feels like a London that went out with Thatcher, but dishes sit solidly within London’s 21st-century passion for quality food.