E. Pellicci
London’s tradition of mid-20th-century diners, or “caffs,” is quickly being gentrified into nostalgia, but this fry-up on deeply authentic and unflashy Bethnal Green Road has been run by the same affable family since 1900. Some of them were born upstairs, and Maria Pellicci, matriarch of the family, has commanded the kitchen since 1966. The Deco interior, a greasy spoon fantasia of sunburst icons, chrome, and primrose, was carved by a regular in 1946 and is now protected by law. You may be boisterously welcomed with open arms and you’ll spend a happy meal sharing a table with locals (“Where are you from?” “Looks like rain tomorrow”), sipping the best cuppa tea you ever had. In 2025, 85-year-old Maria was awarded one of Italy’s highest honors for promoting friendship between Italy and the community. There’s no more iconic “caff” in town, and certainly none happier
London’s tradition of mid-20th-century diners, or “caffs,” is quickly being gentrified into nostalgia, but this fry-up on deeply authentic and unflashy Bethnal Green Road has been run by the same affable family since 1900. Some of them were born upstairs, and Maria Pellicci, matriarch of the family, has commanded the kitchen since 1966. The Deco interior, a greasy spoon fantasia of sunburst icons, chrome, and primrose, was carved by a regular in 1946 and is now protected by law. You may be boisterously welcomed with open arms and you’ll spend a happy meal sharing a table with locals (“Where are you from?” “Looks like rain tomorrow”), sipping the best cuppa tea you ever had. In 2025, 85-year-old Maria was awarded one of Italy’s highest honors for promoting friendship between Italy and the community. There’s no more iconic “caff” in town, and certainly none happier
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