Here, the people behind the seminal Eagle present the essence of gastropub cuisine in the more convenient environs of Covent Garden. There’s a pub feel—scuffed wood floors, burgundy walls, sconces capped with fringed mini-shades—but here, waiters come to you. And how: On one visit, I had no fewer than five servers attend to me, and one of them voluntarily gave me a free Negroni cocktail out of sheer conviviality. The slow-cooked dishes are clean and reassuringly ingredient-proud. Samples (they change) include Old Spot (a breed of pig) pork chops with sticky shallots, griddled quail with celery salt; and lamb’s shoulder cooked for 7 hours and accompanied by gratin dauphinoise—that one feeds four, which hints at the social atmosphere encouraged here. The Cellar Bar, open until midnight, serves the cold dishes from the same menu.
Great Queen Street
32 Green Queen St., WC2
Our Rating Neighborhood Covent Garden & the Strand Hours Lunch Mon–Sat noon–2:30pm and Sun 12:30–3:30pm, dinner Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm Transportation Tube: Covent Garden or Holborn Phone 020/7242-0622 Prices Mains £12–£25 Cuisine Type Traditional British Web site Great Queen Street
Map32 Green Queen St., WC2 London
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