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Here, the people behind the seminal Eagle  present the essence of gastropub cuisine in the more convenient environs of Covent Garden and with showier meats. There’s a pub feel with scuffed wood floors, burgundy walls, and sconces capped with fringed mini-shades. The slow-cooked dishes are clean and reassuringly ingredient-proud. Offerings (they change) may include Old Spot (a breed of pig) pork chops with sticky shallots, Hereford beef, or griddled quail with celery salt. One menu regular is lamb’s shoulder cooked for 7 hours and accompanied by gratin dauphinoise (potatoes in crème fraîche)—that one feeds four, which hints at the social atmosphere encouraged here. The Cellar Bar (open until midnight Tues–Sat) serves the cold dishes from the same menu.