It’s packed for good reasons. First, the food on its changing menu brilliantly adapts Middle Eastern dishes to London palates. Spectacular lamb shawarma is tender as brisket and spiked with pomegranate and mint, and is served in a little pot with hot and soft pita. Chicken dumplings come in a broth that smells like love. The “strawberry spliff” dessert proves that berries, phyllo, mint, and olive oil go well together. This place, which gained such a following it published several successful cookbooks, moved from the southern tip of Regent’s Park (it now runs its old place at 52 Warren St. as a teeny grocery store for spices and the like) to here in 2022 partly to alleviate crowding. It’s still busy, so make a reservation or miss out on this assured, sometimes revelatory, meal. Walk-ins are usually seated in the window or outside.