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Smartly turned-out waiters prep you with so many strange fish-eating utensils that your place setting starts to look like a workstation at Santa’s workshop. Such presentational flourishes are appropriate to theaterland, where this has been a bistro-style classic for years, and although prices aren’t generous, portions and quality are. The least expensive main dish, fish pie, is fortunately its trademark, but there are plenty of other choices, from shrimp-and-scallop burgers to a delectable lemon sole, plus a changing slate of game and meats for the fish-averse. Despite all the fuss, children are welcomed.