The kind of place where chefs like to eat, where the dishes appear simple and fluid and yet require authority to accomplish, Lyle’s has a short, changing New British-meets-Nordic menu, but it runs deep with inventiveness and delicacy: lemon sole with buttermilk and sea aster (a salt marsh plant), raw beef with mussels that’s actually chopped beef with shellfish emulsion, soured cream with chocolate as a dessert. Dishes are neatly creative, but flavors remain clean, even if the blank loft space in which they’re served is a bit factory-like. If things are busy, you can always sit at the bar.
Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High St., E1
Our Rating Neighborhood Shoreditch Hours Mon–Fri 8am–11pm; Sat noon–11pm. Reservations recommended Transportation Tube: Shoreditch High St. or Liverpool St. Phone 020/3011-5911 Prices Main courses £9–£24; 3-course set dinner £59; bar menu £4–£16 Cuisine Type British Web site Lyle’s
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