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The kind of place where chefs like to eat, where the dishes appear simple and fluid and yet require authority to accomplish, Lyle’s has a short, changing New British-meets-Nordic menu, but it runs deep with inventiveness and delicacy: lemon sole with buttermilk and sea aster (a salt marsh plant), raw beef with mussels that’s actually chopped beef with shellfish emulsion, soured cream with chocolate as a dessert. Dishes are neatly creative, but flavors remain clean, even if the blank loft space in which they’re served is a bit factory-like. If things are busy, you can always sit at the bar.