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The Oxo commands a gratitude-inducing panorama of St Paul’s and the City from Southbank, which despite the overpriced aspirations of the menu is really why you come here. The Brasserie, which has live music in the evening, does only moderately ostentatious food such as seared tuna and spring chicken for about [£4 less per main course than the main, special-occasion Restaurant. You may forget the food one day (it’s delicious, but so are many places), but you won’t forget the view.