Eaters go wild for its succulent and savory pasta dishes—there’s always a line curling out the front door into this one-room fishbowl alongside Borough Market. Once you’re in, you mount a stool at a counter (facing the cooks is best, but it’ll be too busy for you to be choosy) and get busy delighting yourself from a brief list of small-plate superstars like creamy gnocchi with nutmeg butter, pici cacio e pepe (cheese-and-pepper pici noodles), and pappardelle with a ragù of 8-hour Dexter beef shin from Ireland, plus a few tap wines and beers. You’ll be happier with two plates than with just one. For the best shot at quick seating, try daily around 9pm or Sundays before opening.

There’s a second, just-as-busy location at 1 Phipp St., EC2, in Shoreditch (Tube: Old Street).