Europe / England / London / Best Restaurants

Paul Rothe & Son

You’d swear this shelf-lined wooden box is a modern pastiche built to flatter its upscale neighborhood just north of Oxford Street’s shopping, but in fact, it opened in 1900, when this was a block favored by German immigrants. The same family still runs it, doling out simple but classic British sandwiches like coronation chicken and cheese and piccalilli, but also a signature pastrami with Swiss, pickles, and mustard on quartered rye. One of the specialties is egg mayo with anchovies, but you can order whatever you want—if they have the ingredients, they’ll make it—and then sit (tables are tight and shared; you’ll make friends), or take away. But show up before noon unless you mind waiting in line with the local office workers who love this guileless throwback. Turns out the distant past was delicious, affordable, and adorable—why did we change? The shop doubles as a grocery for specialty chutneys, jams, and other goodies from around the world.