The moment you sit, your server lights a white taper and you slide your menu from the leafs of Sketches by Boz by Dickens, who started his life penniless nearby. By the time a fusillade of about six amuse bouche “snacks” hits you (paper-thin cod skin studded with emulsified cod roe, a sweet black eel mousse “Storeo”), your candle has quickly melted, you’re told that the wax was actually edible beef fat, and you’re handed a leather pouch of fresh-baked bread to sop up the rich drippings. And there are 10 more frivolously surprising small-plate courses to go. The dramatic and whimsical delights are by hot young talent Tom Sellers, and his prix-fixe menu, which never stops amusing and dazzling with flavor duets, speaks of London cooking both old and new: scallop Carpaccio with cucumber balls rolled in dill ash; Jensen’s gin (Sellers loves gin) and apple consommé topped with garlic blossoms; and “Three Bears” porridge—one sweet, one salty, one just right. It’s food you’ll be talking about. Reserve ahead.