Restaurant Story
A meal here is hard to book and will take 3–4 hours, but this is how it might begin: Instead of handing you a menu, your server lights a white taper on your table and begins serving you by that candlelight. A few courses in, as it burns down, comes the reveal: That candle was beef tallow and bone marrow that is now melted for dipping. You are actually amid a sensational parade of tricks of the tongue and deliberate gastronomic trompe l’oeil. The dramatic and whimsical flourishes are by chef talent Tom Sellers, who has been pelted with so many awards he practically has to collect them with a rake. Everyone receives a tasting menu formulated out of English ingredients and inspired by memories and moments from Sellers’ upbringing. It sounds pretentious, and it’s expensive, but it’s also a gustatory event that continues to garner plaudits since its 2013 debut, and if you care about fine food it’s one of the most sensational nights you may ever spend in a restaurant.
A meal here is hard to book and will take 3–4 hours, but this is how it might begin: Instead of handing you a menu, your server lights a white taper on your table and begins serving you by that candlelight. A few courses in, as it burns down, comes the reveal: That candle was beef tallow and bone marrow that is now melted for dipping. You are actually amid a sensational parade of tricks of the tongue and deliberate gastronomic trompe l’oeil. The dramatic and whimsical flourishes are by chef talent Tom Sellers, who has been pelted with so many awards he practically has to collect them with a rake. Everyone receives a tasting menu formulated out of English ingredients and inspired by memories and moments from Sellers’ upbringing. It sounds pretentious, and it’s expensive, but it’s also a gustatory event that continues to garner plaudits since its 2013 debut, and if you care about fine food it’s one of the most sensational nights you may ever spend in a restaurant.
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