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This event restaurant has been celebrated for its creativity as much as its skill; in 2018, it closed temporarily for a total refit, including the menu, but before the change, it went like this: The moment you sat, your server lit a white taper as you pulled your menu from the leaves of Sketches by Boz by Charles Dickens, who lived nearby in his penniless youth. By the time a fusillade of about six amuse-bouche “snacks” hit you (paper-thin cod skin studded with emulsified cod roe, a sweet black eel mousse “Storeo”), your candle had melted, you were told that the wax was actually beef fat, and you were handed a leather pouch of fresh-baked bread to sop up the rich drippings. More unfurled: scallop carpaccio with cucumber balls rolled in dill ash; Jensen’s gin and apple consommé topped with garlic blossoms; and “Three Bears” porridge—one sweet, one salty, one just right. The dramatic and whimsical flourishes are by hot talent Tom Sellers, who earned a Michelin star for his narrative-as-meal concept. His new prix-fixe menu, promises a fully bespoke menu catered to you and often prepared tableside. The price is extreme, but the experience is like none other, and a high-wire act few other chefs would be capable of.