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After braving the rummage sale of mediocre gastronomic clip joints around the British Museum, patrons are known to smugly proclaim this their “discovery”—omitting the reality that it’s been presenting what it correctly terms “affordable gourmet” since 1995. How could anyone have ignored this traveler’s gift, where nothing is processed and everything is made-to-order? Meals are more than reliable; in this area, they’re miracles on plates. Baguette sandwiches and burgers are under £9, but upgrade: Lunch prix-fixe is £16 (dinner £26) and might include ample portions of nimbly executed dishes like red-wine-braised duck legs, bouillabaisse, tequila-lime chicken, or beef daube so tender you wonder if they’ve got Julia Child’s ghost back there.