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Hand-in-hand with the gastropub trend is “nose-to-tail” eating. That’s a polite way to say you’ll be eating various animal body parts, resulting in tastes that were commonplace to agrarian English forefathers (heart, cockscomb, marrow, whole pigeon) but are new to most North American tongues. I personally hate it, but it’s always on the foodie dream lists. Most places charge, um, an arm and a leg for it, but you can sample it at this lower-priced offshoot of the influential St John restaurant (still running in Smithfield), which in the 1990s brought back British cooking in a big way. Walls are simple white, chairs are plain wood, and the kitchen staff is serious about food, no matter its form. Experience dishes like cold lamb with chicory and anchovy, smoked sprat (sardines) with horseradish, and laver bread (made with seaweed) with oats and bacon. A meal here can be an adventure (ever eaten dandelion?).