Hand-in-hand with the gastropub trend is “nose-to-tail” eating. That’s a polite way to say you’ll be eating various animal body parts, resulting in tastes that were commonplace to agrarian English forefathers (heart, cockscomb, marrow, whole pigeon) but are new to most North American tongues. I personally hate it, but it’s always on the foodie dream lists. Most places charge, um, an arm and a leg for it, but you can sample it at this lower-priced offshoot of the influential St John restaurant (still running in Smithfield), which in the 1990s brought back British cooking in a big way. Walls are simple white, chairs are plain wood, and the kitchen staff is serious about food, no matter its form. Experience dishes like cold lamb with chicory and anchovy, smoked sprat (sardines) with horseradish, and laver bread (made with seaweed) with oats and bacon. A meal here can be an adventure (ever eaten dandelion?).
St John Bread & Wine
94–96 Commercial St., E1
Our Rating Neighborhood Shoreditch Hours Mon–Fri 8am–4pm and 6–10pm; Sat 8:30am–11pm; Sun 8:30am–10pm. Reservations recommended Phone 020/7251-0848 Prices Main courses £7–£10 before 6pm, around £15 after 6pm Cuisine Type Traditional British Web site St John Bread & Wine
Map94–96 Commercial St., E1 London
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.