In 2012 Jeremy King and Chris Corbin, who did the acclaimed Wolseley, opened another pitch-perfect evocation of a Continental cafe from a lost age. This one, just south of Covent Garden, is fitted with Art Deco brass fittings and lots of dark wood, and its menu, which does all three meals, is decidedly Teutonic, what with its schnitzels, seared mackerel, beef Stroganoff, and wieners. Next door, its much more affordable casual cafe, the Counter, is retro Viennese, and it’s tempting to wile away an afternoon sipping espresso, eating sachertorte (£4.50) and fresh-made croissants (£1.80), and reading one of the provided newspapers at one of the benches with the crane-necked jeweler’s lamps. There, it does a £13 tea after 3pm and sandwiches (salt beef, croque monsieur, and so forth).