In this age, no one would dare name their joint something as hydrogenated as The Fryer’s Delight. Fortunately, this joint is not of this age. It’s a true old-world chippy, where the fry fat is from beef drippings, chips come in paper wrappings, the wooden booths and chequered floor date to the lean postwar years, and the men behind the counter gruffly demand to have your order. Prices are anachronistic, too: Nothing’s more expensive than £6.20. Seamy? Not at all—it’s just a last hanger-on from the dying fish-and-chips tradition, so get a taste while you still can. Order yours with mushy peas. It’s a 10-minute walk east of the British Museum; look for the logo of a codfish tipping his bowler hat (seriously). If you like fish and chips more upscale, try Bonnie Gull in Fitzrovia (21 Foley St., W1; www.bonniegullseafoodshack.com; [tel] 020/7436-0921; £15 at dinner) or Golden Union in Soho (38 Poland St., W1; www.goldenunion.co.uk; [tel] 020/7434-1933; £12).
The Fryer’s Delight
19 Theobald’s Rd., WC1
Our Rating Neighborhood Holborn Hours Mon–Sat noon–10:30pm Transportation Tube: Holborn or Chancery Lane Phone 020/7405-4114 Prices Meals £5–£6.20 Cuisine Type British
Map19 Theobald’s Rd., WC1 London
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.