In this age, no one would dare name their joint something as hydrogenated as The Fryer’s Delight. Fortunately, this joint is not of this age. It’s a true old-world chippy, where the fry fat is from beef drippings, chips come in paper wrappings, the wooden booths and chequered floor date to the lean postwar years, and the men behind the counter gruffly demand to have your order. Prices are anachronistic, too: Nothing’s more expensive than £6.20. Seamy? Not at all—it’s just a last hanger-on from the dying fish-and-chips tradition, so get a taste while you still can. Order yours with mushy peas. It’s a 10-minute walk east of the British Museum; look for the logo of a codfish tipping his bowler hat (seriously). If you like fish and chips more upscale, try Bonnie Gull in Fitzrovia (21 Foley St., W1;; [tel] 020/7436-0921; £15 at dinner) or Golden Union in Soho (38 Poland St., W1;; [tel] 020/7434-1933; £12).