In this age, no one would dare name their joint something as hydrogenated as The Fryer’s Delight. Fortunately, this joint is not of this age. It’s a true old-world chippy, where the fry fat is from beef drippings, chips come in paper wrappings, the wooden booths and checkered floor date to the lean postwar years, and the men behind the counter are almost callously gruff. Prices are anachronistic, too: Nothing’s more expensive than £7. Order yours with mushy peas. It’s a 10-min. walk east of the British Museum; look for the logo of a codfish tipping his bowler hat (seriously). If you like fish and chips more upscale, try Bonnie Gull in Fitzrovia (21 Foley St., W1;; tel. 020/7436-0921; £15 at dinner) or Golden Union in Soho (38 Poland St., W1;; tel. 020/7434-1933; £12).