Planning a trip to Los Cabos and Baja California

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

With such an overwhelming array of unique natural attractions, development -- sometimes overdevelopment -- has proven irresistible, to the point where in some parts of Los Cabos and Baja, it's damaging the very natural wonders it's trying to exploit. Take water, for instance, a vital resource and an open question in this desert place. San José del Cabo is blessed with underground aquifers, a reason the Spanish settled there in 1730. Cabo San Lucas is not. For the moment, Cabo shares San José's water supply -- but massive tourism growth and more on the way will overwhelm it. Plans for a desalination plant to slake Cabo's thirst sound great, until you ask the question, what happens to the runoff? Developers say the sea is big enough to absorb a little salt; environmentalists say it could have devastating effects. Cabo's not the only place where increased tourism is coming counter to the natural world. If a proposed hotel development project in Cabo Pulmo becomes reality, some worry it could destroy the park's living coral reef.

Concerns about the sea don't end with pollution, though. Several estimates suggest fishing stocks in the Sea of Cortez have declined 90% since the 1960s, much of that since the 1980s when commercial fishing moved in. Commercial longline fishing brings in hundreds of marlin, sailfish, and dorado daily, as well as endangered sharks and mantas. Gill nets catch and drown sea turtles, sea lions, dolphins, and whales. Indiscriminate shrimp trawling pulls in tons of bycatch that's left to die. And there's still a black market in endangered sea turtles, eaten for purported medicinal qualities.

Pressure on the fish means pressure on the fishermen. Traditional fishing communities, where catch is barely above subsistence level, are dying out. Fishing captains who've led tourists to game catch since the 1940s are having a harder time finding fish. The same goes for local businesses, being squeezed out by U.S. and Canadian developers and giant international retail chains. The less people here are able to survive as they have for generations, the more likely they are to leave their communities to look for work elsewhere, accelerating the kind of social decline mainland Mexico knows all too well.

Baja hotel and restaurant operators are just waking up to the challenge of sustainability, and some are responding with gray-water irrigation systems, auto-off air-conditioning, and the use of organically grown vegetables, in addition to the lip-service reuse-your-towel signs that pass for a conscience in the tourism industry. Much more active are many Baja tour operators and guides who take every contact with visitors as an opportunity to educate them about the fragility of this natural environment and the rewards of good stewardship. Low- or no-impact marine and land tours, catch-and-release big game fishing, and wildlife research tourism have become an important part of Baja's tourism landscape.

If you're concerned about the impact of your vacation, consider the following ways to reduce your footprint and preserve Baja for your next visit. Stay at small hotels, whose infrastructure uses less energy and water per head than big resorts. Turn off air-conditioning when you leave your room, or open the window and don't use it at all. Ask where your fish comes from, and try to only eat seafood from small local fishermen or cooperatives. (And when you're at home, buy only fish that's been sustainably harvested -- programs from the Marine Stewardship Council, www.msc.org, and the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch, www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch, make it easy.) Skip megastores and patronize local businesses, to help Baja stay Baja.

You can learn more about Baja's environment and the challenges facing it through the following organizations: Wildcoast (www.wildcoast.net) is a bilingual environmental action group for the protection of both the Californias; Pro Peninsula (www.propeninsula.org), based in San Diego, is focused on Baja; Eco Alianza Loreto is working to protect Loreto's National Marine Park, while Angels of the Estuary (www.delestero.org) cares for San José's estuary; Grupo Ecologista de Tijuana (www.grupoecologista.com) is working for the reforestation of land around the border and a greening of this polluted city. In addition to the resources for Los Cabos and Baja listed above, see frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Saving the Sharks -- When a permanent ban on shark fishing in Honduras was signed into law in 2010, Peter Wilcox was cheering. The Cabo-based course director at Manta Scuba is the founder of the Shark Legacy Project (www.sharklegacyproject.com), whose research, education, and lobbying work were responsible for the law. Upwards of 70 million sharks are killed worldwide each year for their fins, a billion-dollar industry. But Wilcox and his partners convinced the Honduran government that sharks are more valuable alive, as part of the marine wilderness that draws divers and snorkelers to local tourism. They're hoping to repeat their success in Mexico in the coming years.

Earth Movers

In researching this guide, we've made an effort to identify businesses that are ahead of the sustainability curve.

Hotels -- El Angel Azul, La Paz: A conservation pioneer, using local and humanely produced products in the kitchen, biodegradable soap in the laundry room, low-watt bulbs in the light sockets -- all in a 140-year-old building in the city.

Prana del Mar, West Cape: Solar energy, gray-water irrigation, organic cotton towels instead of paper, low-flow showers and toilets, and an organic garden make this yoga retreat an earthly paradise.

Villa del Faro, East Cape: 100% solar-powered, off the grid and built with sustainable materials, with clotheslines for laundry and xeriscaped grounds.

Restaurants -- Flora's Field Kitchen, San José del Cabo: It doesn't get more local than this: Everything on your table was produced right there on the organic farm.

Laja, Valle de Guadalupe: What doesn't come from their own garden comes from sustainable and humane local production; they're known for their organic wines, too.

Mision 19, Tijuana: Cross-border farm-to-table in Baja's first LEED Gold eco-friendly building, with a citrus orchard in the courtyard.

Tour Operators -- Baja Big Fish, Loreto: Owner Pam Bolles is a longtime champion of sustainable fisheries, and that includes her own billfishing trips, which are strictly catch-and-release.

Baja Expeditions, Los Cabos: Environmental activism that puts its money where its mouth is: All profits from Conservation Expeditions go directly to local environmental organizations.

Baja Trek, Los Cabos: Carbon-neutral tours down the peninsula, in a school bus retrofitted to run on recycled vegetable oil -- it's hippie, it's dippy, and it's totally green.

Regions in Brief

Baja California Sur

Of the peninsula's three regions, Baja Sur is the most developed for tourism, starting with the fun-loving party town Cabo San Lucas, at the southern tip. Great swimming beaches, snorkeling and diving, fishing, and golf are the active draws here, as are hot nightclubs and an American-style good-time vibe. Its nearby fraternal twin, San José del Cabo, trades the nightlife and the tequila shots for an arts district, booming restaurant scene, and mission-era historic architecture. Together, the two Cabos make up the lion's share of Baja's tourism receipts.

The Corridor, the coastal road that runs between the two, is the gateway to a string of spectacular beaches and coves -- some of the peninsula's best. It's no surprise that this is where most of the Cabos's luxury resorts have chosen to build, amid moneyed real-estate developments looking out to the sea. In between, you'll find the world-class golf courses that have made Baja a golfer's favorite vacation spot.

Los Cabos can feel like a southern extension of the United States West Coast, but other areas of Baja Sur are some of the wildest corners of Mexico. The peninsula's East Cape, just northeast of San José del Cabo, is a rocky, romantic landscape of beaches, coral reefs, dive sites, hiking paths, and waterfalls, along the coast of the Sea of Cortez. Keep driving north and you'll hit La Paz, the capital of Baja Sur, an easygoing maritime port that's a great jumping-off point for adventures on land and sea as well as a pleasant cultural center in its own right.

Along the Pacific coast north of Cabo San Lucas, the Pacific Side is one long, wild beach, with world-class surfing and a funky vibe. Just north, the palm oasis of Todos Santos draws artistic and epicurean travelers to its galleries and some of the best restaurants in Baja.

Mid-Baja

The breathtaking badlands of mid-Baja are about as impassible as it gets, which makes it all the more exciting to get there. Loreto is the original capital of the Californias, with Baja's first Spanish mission and a tiny but lovely historic district at the edge of a protected marine reserve bay. The town and its offshore islands are a famed center for dorado and billfish sportfishing, kayaking, snorkeling and diving, as well as the region's best hiking, through desert canyons to ranching regions untouched by development. To the north, Mulegé is a palm-filled desert oasis, a favorite of U.S. and Canadian snowbirds and a staging ground for visits to the region's cave paintings. Santa Rosalía is an anomaly along the coast: French-style colonial wooden homes and a church designed by Gustav Eiffel are this busy port town's draw.

But between January and March, all this is eclipsed by the most thrilling reason to visit any part of Baja -- the annual migration of gray whales to calve in mid-Baja's Pacific lagoons. In Laguna Ojo de Liebre, Laguna San Ignacio, and Bahía de Magdalena, mother whales coax their newborns right up beside whale-watching pangas, in one of the most magical wildlife experiences to be had anywhere.

Baja California (Norte)

The state encompassing Northern Baja is officially known as Baja California. Its commercial capital, Tijuana, has many dubious distinctions: It's the most-visited, most-maligned, and most-misunderstood city in all of Baja. Booze and drugs, human smuggling and immense factories, the cruelties of the border and the violence of Mexico's drug war are strong influences here, although it's easy for visitors to look the other way. Crime is still a problem for residents, although much less for tourists. But the other side of adversity's coin is the creative energy it can generate, and Tijuana is indisputably Baja's cultural capital, with flourishing food, art, and film scenes, burgeoning hipster nightlife that goes way beyond tequila shots, extensive shopping, and a truly international identity. Rosarito Beach is Tijuana's resort town, which got a boost after the movie Titanic was filmed here (the set is now a movie-themed amusement park). Farther down the Pacific coast is the lovely port town of Ensenada, a favorite cruise ship stop known for its prime surfing and sportfishing. The nearby vineyards of Mexico's wine country, in the Valle de Guadalupe, are a new and growing attraction, and just north, the border town of Tecate is Tijuana's opposite: sleepy, peaceful, home to a famed brewery, some ancient cave paintings, and not much else. Down the road south, San Felipe wins the prize as Baja's northernmost resort boomtown.

Tips for Families

Mexicans love children, and Baja Sur is a great place to introduce children to the exciting adventure of exploring a different culture. For kids about 8 and up, there's lots to do, from learning new sports to exploring nature. Visiting mother and baby whales in Pacific lagoons, in particular, is a must for families. However, finding restaurant food that kids will eat can be a challenge, and many hotels and guesthouses in the peninsula, especially those with swimming pools, don't accept children younger than 12 or 13. We've made an effort here to list hotels that are kid-friendly; those that are will sometimes offer kids' clubs, special daytime activity programs, or private babysitters, especially in Los Cabos's moderate to expensive resorts.

Before leaving, ask your doctor for advice on medications to take along. Disposable diapers cost about the same in Mexico as in the rest of North America, but are of poorer quality. You can get Huggies and Pampers identical to the ones sold in the United States, but at a higher price. Many stores sell Gerber's baby foods. Dry cereals, powdered formulas, baby bottles, and purified water are all easily available in midsize and large cities or resorts.

Rollaway beds are often available for children staying in the room with parents. (Cribs, however, may present a problem -- only the largest and most luxurious hotels provide them.) Child seats or highchairs at restaurants are common, and most restaurants will go out of their way to accommodate your child.

Because many travelers to Baja will rent a car, it is advisable to bring your car seat. Leasing agencies in Mexico do not rent car seats.

Every country's regulations differ, but in general children traveling abroad should have plenty of documentation on hand, particularly if they're traveling with someone other than their own parents (in which case a notarized form letter from a parent is often required). For details on entry requirements for children traveling abroad, contact your embassy in Mexico.

Tips on Accommodations

From resorts to ranchos, mansions to pensions, Los Cabos and Baja have it all -- but they don't come cheap. Average accommodations prices here are at least 50% higher than in comparable properties and destinations on the Mexican mainland, and in some cases, much more. If you're looking for a luxury getaway, look no further: Los Cabos's top resorts, for example, are consistently ranked the very best in Mexico and Latin America. Budget travelers, however, will have to do some creative planning. As a general rule, accommodations in Los Cabos are the most expensive in Baja, and prices fall as you move up the peninsula and away from major tourist routes. Note that prices here are usually listed in U.S. dollars, and despite Mexican law to the contrary, often do not include 11% VAT and 3% hotel tax; some hotels also tack on a mandatory daily service charge.

One way to keep your costs down is to consider traveling out of season. In Los Cabos and Baja, this isn't as limiting as it sounds: most hotels list high-season prices only for Christmas and New Year's holidays, and drop to mid-season prices for the rest of the winter and spring. Summer stays are discounted up to 50%, and carry the advantage of swimmable warm water in Baja's two seas. And with the ongoing Mexican tourism crisis, driven by bad press and the economic downturn, there are deals to be had. Keep an eye out for air-hotel package deals, and don't be shy about asking hotel reservations reps if they can offer a discount -- many small properties will. Also pay attention to whether breakfast is included in your rate; a la carte breakfast in swish Baja resorts can add $10 to $30 per person per day to your bill, and on resort properties, there's often no alternative.

Vacation rental properties and home swaps are available in nearly every destination. These offer the advantage of space, privacy, and the opportunity to cook your own meals, at a wide range of prices. Local real-estate agencies offer extensive listings; start with Cabo Property Management (www.cabopropertymanagement.net) for Los Cabos, Wolf Property Management (www.wolf-pm-rentals.com) for Los Barriles and East Cape, Baraka En Todos (www.barakaentodos.com) for Todos Santos and the Pacific Side, Rentals Loreto (www.rentalsloreto.com) in Loreto, My San Felipe Vacation (www.mysanfelipevacation.com) for San Felipe, and Ensenada Real Estate (www.ensenadarealestate.com) for Ensenada. Vacation Rentals By Owner (www.vrbo.com) and Home Away (www.homeaway.com) are excellent international portals for vacation rentals that cut out the middleman. Many rental properties also list directly on their own Web pages and can be found on your friendly local search engine. And with a vacation house swap, of course, there's no rental at all; find out how to trade your home for one in Baja at www.homeexchange.com.

Since the early days of road-tripping surfers, Baja travelers have enjoyed sleeping under the stars. Although we don't cover each campground in this guide, you'll find a campground of some kind in most every Baja coastal town, and where you don't, you'll find plenty of free spirits parking their RVs on remote beaches all winter long. The exception is the northern Pacific beaches between Ensenada and the U.S. border, where crimes targeting campers in recent years have made this a spot where you're better off with a roof over your head. Although many campgrounds cater mostly to RVs, most will show you a spot to pitch a tent for under $10. Campers without their own gear can rough it for a night or two with a hiking, kayaking, or whale-watching tour or go "glamping" at one of the Sea of Cortez's luxury camps. Be aware that Baja's desert nights are chilly, and firewood is hard to come by.

Hotel Cost Category System, in U.S. Dollars

Standard double price per night before tax

Very Expensive $300 and up

Expensive $150-$300

Moderate $80-$150

Inexpensive below $80

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All visitors to Mexico need a valid passport, upon presentation of which entering the country you'll be granted a tourist visa valid 180 days. To obtain a passport, contact one of the following passport offices:

• Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).
• Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
• Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
• New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
• United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Sq., London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
• United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Visitors from the U.S., Canada, Europe, Australia, and New Zealand don't need visas for tourist stays of less than 180 days. Other nationalities should check with the Instituto Nacional de Migración online at www.inm.gob.mx. There's a helpful online flow chart (in easily decipherable Spanish) of who needs what.

Customs

Gone are the bad old days of shady inspections and bribes; nowadays, la Aduana (Mexican Customs, www.aduanas.sat.gob.mx and click on "English" in the upper right corner) moves like clockwork. When you arrive by air, you'll be asked to put your bags through a scanner and press a button -- red means you'll be inspected, green means you're good to go. When you arrive by car, you'll be randomly assigned a green or red light. Be aware that while there are few restrictions on what travelers can bring with them into the country, you're only allowed two cameras and one computer per traveler -- any more and you'll have to pay value-added-tax.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Tijuana, 664; Rosarito Beach, 661; Ensenada, 646; Mulegé and Santa Rosalía, 615; Loreto, 613; La Paz, Todos Santos, and West Cape, 612; Los Cabos and East Cape, 624.

Business Hours -- In general, businesses in larger cities are open between 9am and 7pm; in smaller towns many close between 2 and 4pm. Most close on Sunday. In resort areas it is common to find stores open at least in the mornings on Sunday, and for shops to stay open late, often until 8pm or even 10pm. Bank hours are Monday through Friday from 9 or 9:30am to anywhere between 3 and 7pm. Increasingly, banks open on Saturday for at least a half-day.

Doctors -- Any English-speaking consulate staff in Mexico can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick in Mexico, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital or urgent care facility. Many hospitals also have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay emergency room prices.

Most resorts have a doctor on staff, and Amerimed (www.amerimed.com.mx), runs 24-hour, American-standards clinics with bilingual physicians and emergency air-evacuation services in San José del Cabo (tel. 624/105-8550), Cabo San Lucas (tel. 624/105-8500), and Los Barriles (tel. 624/141-0797); it also accepts major credit cards.

You may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Drinking & Drug Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 18. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can and will fine you on the spot.

In the shadow of a raging drug war, in 2009 Mexico decriminalized possession of small amounts of drugs including marijuana and cocaine. However, buying, selling, importing and exporting drugs remains illegal, and violators face stiff fines and imprisonment in a tangled and backlogged legal system that presumes guilt before innocence.

Driving Rules -- As at home, Mexican law requires you to wear a seat belt and not use your cellphone while driving. Driving under the influence of drugs or alcohol is both unwise and illegal.

Electricity -- Like the U.S. and Canada, Mexico uses 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Wall outlets are exactly the same as in the United States and Canada.

Embassies & Consulates -- They can give you the name of a doctor, tell you how to get married in Mexico, and replace your passport, but sadly, your embassy will not get you out of a Mexican jail or fly you home when you run out of money. Most countries have an embassy in Mexico City, and many have consular offices or representatives in Los Cabos or Tijuana.

The Embassy of the United States in Mexico City is at Paseo de la Reforma 305, Col. Polanco, next to the Sheraton at the corner of Río Danubio (tel. 55/5080-2000); hours are Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Visit www.usembassy-mexico.gov for information related to U.S. Embassy services. In Baja, there is a U.S. Consulate in Tijuana (Av. Tapachula 96; tel. 664/622-7400; http://tijuana.usconsulate.gov) and a consular agency in Cabo San Lucas (Bl. Marina C-4 in Plaza Nautica; tel. 624/143-3566).

The Embassy of Australia in Mexico City is at Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco (tel. 55/1101-2200; www.mexico.embassy.gov.au). It's open Monday through Thursday from 9:30am to 1pm.

The Embassy of Canada in Mexico City is at Schiller 529, Col. Polanco (tel. 55/5724-7900, or for emergencies 01-800/706-2900); it's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm. In Baja, there is a Canadian consulate in Tijuana (German Gedovius 10411-101; tel. 664/684-0461) and a consular agency in San José del Cabo (Plaza José Green, Bl. Mijares; tel. 624/142-4333).

The Embassy of New Zealand in Mexico City is at Jaime Balmes 8, 4th Floor, Col. Los Morales, Polanco (tel. 55/5283-9460; www.nzembassy.com/mexico). It's open Monday through Thursday from 8:30am to 2pm and 3 to 5:30pm, and Friday from 8:30am to 2pm.

The Embassy of the United Kingdom in Mexico City is at Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc (tel. 55/5207-2089 or 5242-8500; http://ukinmexico.fco.gov.uk). It's open Monday through Thursday from 8am to 4pm and Friday from 8am to 1:30pm. There's a British Honorary Consulate in Tijuana (Bl. Salinas 1800, Fracc. Aviación; tel. 664/686-5320) and Cabo San Lucas (Bl. Paseo de la Marina Lote 7a; tel. 624/173-9500).

The Embassy of Ireland in Mexico City is at Cda. Bl. Manuel Avila Camacho 76, 3rd Floor, Col. Lomas de Chapultepec (tel. 55/5520-5803; http://irishembassy.com.mx). It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.

Emergencies -- In case of emergency, dial tel. 066 from any phone within Mexico; for medical emergencies tel. 065 works as well. You should also contact the closest consular office in case of an emergency. If you break down on the highway, call the Green Angels at tel. 078 for free English-language repairs and towing.

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Language -- As is the rest of Mexico, Los Cabos and Baja are Spanish-speaking. However, English is widely spoken by people who work in the tourism industry and nearly everyone in Los Cabos and Tijuana.

Legal Aid -- If you behave yourself, the most legal trouble you're likely to get into is a flashing light in the rearview mirror. Pull over as you would at home, hand over your license, and pay your fine at the police station. Police officers may hint at making a deal, but keep in mind that bribing public officials, no matter how willing, is a crime. Sanborn's Car Insurance includes legal help if you're involved in an auto accident; for rental cars, contact your rental company.

The Mexican legal system is a mess, to put it mildly, and if you get into serious trouble, you'll need a lawyer. Contact your consulate for a list of local ones.

Mail -- Mexican postal service is reliable, if sometimes a bit slow. Postcards and letters cost 11.50 pesos to the U.S. and Canada, 13.50 pesos to the U.K., and 15 pesos to Australia and New Zealand. Post offices have an unmistakable shocking pink-and-green logo over the storefront, and post boxes are bulky and red, with slots for local and foreign mail. Send packages registered mail for a small surcharge; the tracking number is added security the package will arrive. For valuables or anything urgent, use an international shipping service like FedEx (tel. 800/900-1100) or DHL (tel. 55/5345-7000).

Newspapers & Magazines -- In Los Cabos, a number of local English-language papers are available at newsstands and cafes in places tourists frequent, including the monthly Los Cabos Magazine (www.loscabosguide.com), Los Cabos News, Destino Los Cabos, and the irreverent, entertaining biweekly Gringo Gazette (www.gringogazette.com) for Southern Baja. In Northern Baja, try the northern edition Gringo Gazette North (www.gringogazettenorth.com) and the venerable biweekly Baja Times (www.bajatimes.com). El Calendario (elcalendariodetodossantos.com) is a good monthly source for local events in Todos Santos, and the biweekly Baja Citizen (www.bajacitizen.com) covers local news and politics in La Paz. Los Cabos luxury resorts also frequently offer the New York Times to guests, either in a complete edition or a digest.

Packing -- Baja looks like a tropical paradise, but there's more variation in the climate than many people imagine. You'll do well to pack a light jacket or sweater for evenings, especially in the winter, and a windproof jacket and long pants for boat trips. Dress is casual everywhere with the exception of Los Cabos's very finest restaurants, and even there you'll fit right in with stylish resort wear. Men will almost never need a tie. Hikers should make sure to have good sturdy boots to protect against rocks and reptiles, and indeed anyone who ventures into the inland deserts should plan on wearing long pants and sleeves to protect against sun and cacti.

For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- In case of emergency, dial tel. 066 from any phone within Mexico. To report a non-emergency crime, dial tel. 089, or from the U.S. and Canada, tel. 866/201-5060 for English-speaking operators who can coordinate help.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in all public buildings in Mexico. It's common and tolerated for smokers to puff away in patio areas of restaurants.

Taxes -- There's a 15% IVA (Impuesto al Valor Agregado, or value-added tax, pronounced "ee-bah") on goods and services in most of Mexico, and although it's supposed to be included in the posted price, most hotels and restaurants in Los Cabos and Baja add it on top, in keeping with U.S. customs. You may find that upper-end properties quote prices without IVA included, while lower-priced hotels include IVA. Always ask to see a printed price sheet, and always ask if the tax is included. This tax is 10% in Los Cabos; as a port of entry, the towns receive a break on taxes. There is a 5% tax on food and drinks consumed in restaurants that sell alcoholic beverages with an alcohol content of more than 10%; this tax applies whether you drink alcohol or not. Tequila is subject to a 25% tax. Hotels charge the usual 15% IVA, plus a locally administered bed tax of 2% or 3% (in many but not all areas), for a total of 17% or 18%. In Los Cabos, hotels charge the 10% IVA plus 2% room tax.

You'll pay 15% VAT while shopping, but the good news is, you can get it back (minus a processing fee), if you shop at one of the high-end retailers participating in Mexico's TAXBACK program (www.taxback.com.mx) and fly out of Los Cabos. Keep purchases and receipts separate from the rest of your packed luggage, and present them with your passport and tourist card at the Taxback office at the airport before leaving.

Mexico imposes an exit tax, which usually is applied to your ticket at purchase, on every foreigner leaving the country.

Time -- The state of Baja California Norte -- from Tijuana to Guerrero Negro -- is on Pacific Standard Time, and Baja California Sur -- from south of Guerrero Negro to Los Cabos -- is on Mountain Standard Time. Mexico observes daylight saving time. The rest of Mexico observes Central Standard Time.

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- Most service employees in Mexico count on tips to make up the majority of their income -- especially bellboys and waiters. Tip bellboys the equivalent of $1 per bag; waiters 10% to 15% of the bill, depending on the level of service. In Mexico, it is not customary to tip taxi drivers, unless they are hired by the hour or provide touring or other special services.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in Los Cabos and Baja, but they can be found in bars, restaurants, bus stations, and service stations. They're usually quite clean and well kept, although it's not uncommon for them to lack seats. A basket next to the bowl is your indication to throw paper and such there and not in the water; to avoid clogging pipes, do as the locals do.

Water -- While water in Los Cabos and Baja is generally cleaner and safer than in other destinations in Mexico, locals don't drink the tap water and you shouldn't, either. Purified water is cheap and readily available in any supermarket, convenience store, or gas station. Any water or ice you're served in hotels or restaurants will be purified, but if you have any doubts, ask "es agua purificada?"

Getting Around

By Car

If you're planning to stick to the town you fly to, it's possible to visit Los Cabos and Baja without a car. That said, driving is by far the best way to see the region, combining maximum flexibility and off-the-beaten path mobility with the road-trip spirit that's been a part of Baja traveling since the peninsula's highway was built.

Navigating Baja -- Finding your way up and down the peninsula is easy. For the most part, Baja has one highway: the Transpeninsular Highway, or Route 1, which connects almost all major destinations from top to bottom. In the south, Hwy. 19 connects Cabo San Lucas with the West Cape, Todos Santos and La Paz, while in the north, Hwy. 3 and Hwy. 5 are useful for getting around San Felipe, Tecate, and Ensenada. Speed limits range between 90kmph (55 mph) on wide, straight highways to 60kmph (37 mph) on more challenging roads. Road signs are helpful and up-to-date throughout the peninsula, making it easy -- if you stay on the highways -- not to get lost on the many dirt roads that snake through the desert.

Finding your way in Baja's cities and towns, however, is more of a challenge. Streets tend to be poorly marked, if at all, with tiny street signs intended for pedestrians, not drivers. Fortunately, most towns are laid out in a grid system, so if you miss your turn, you can take the next one and double back. Watch out for topes, irregular speed bumps, and their treacherous opposites, vados, narrow ditches across the road, meant to encourage drivers to slow, giving them a jolt if they don't. Both can be difficult to see at night; look for painted stripes, signs announcing TOPE or VADO, and sometimes piles of stones on the sides of the road.

While roads throughout the peninsula are steadily improving, most are still not as wide, smooth, or well maintained as their counterparts in the rest of North America. Dirt or gravel roads are common, and potholes after an infrequent rain can take awhile to repair. Drive with caution on twisty mountain roads, and avoid driving on country roads or highways at night -- poor lighting, unmarked hazards and road damage, and surprise visits of wildlife and pedestrians make nighttime driving one of Baja's few real dangers.

Mexican driving customs have developed in response to Mexican roads, as when a truck driver flips on his left turn signal when there's not a crossroad for miles. He's probably telling you the road's clear ahead for you to pass -- give him a wave to say thanks. Flashing hazard lights on oncoming vehicles or the cars in front of you means there's something going on up ahead (animals in or near the road, a car accident, a slow-moving vehicle, and so forth) and to proceed with caution. Most important of all is local practice for left turns. If you stop in the middle of a highway with your left signal on, there's a real chance you'll get mowed down by traffic behind you. Instead, pull onto the right shoulder, wait for traffic to clear, and then proceed across the road.

If you do much driving in Baja, you'll probably run into a military checkpoint or two. Although the stern uniformed teenagers with M-16s may look threatening, there's nothing to fear: Checkpoints are standard procedure in Mexico, so smile, let the soldiers inspect your car for drugs or agricultural products if requested, and then be on your merry way.

Buying Gas -- It's easy to find a gas station in Mexico; there's just one company, national oil company PEMEX, whose green signs dot highways and roads up and down Baja. Gas is slightly cheaper than in the U.S. and Canada; at time of research, the going rate was about 10 pesos per liter for Magna, or regular, gas -- roughly $3.75 a gallon. Prices are posted in pesos per liter, and include tax. Many gas stations accept cash only.

Car Rentals -- Major international car-rental agencies are well represented in Los Cabos and Baja, as well as some worthy local companies, providing mostly the same new, clean, car models for rent -- the deciding factor will probably be price, and if you shop around and book ahead, you can get deals for as low as US$100 a week before taxes.

Insurance -- It's important to note that in Mexico, drivers are required to carry personal liability insurance (PLI), covering any damage in an accident to other persons or property, which is not covered by your home-country car insurance policy. Online bookings, even those promising guaranteed all-inclusive pricing, generally do not include or even offer this insurance, which can lead to an unpleasant surprise when you're slapped with a standard $14/day mandatory charge at the rental counter. And car rental phone representatives in your home country are often not well informed about it. At time of research, the only major rental company in Los Cabos and Baja including PLI in its standard pricing was Hertz.

Non-mandatory insurance is offered in two parts: Collision and damage insurance covers your car and others if the accident is your fault, and personal accident insurance covers you and anyone in your car. Read the fine print on the back of your rental agreement and note that insurance may be invalid if you have an accident while driving on an unpaved road. Be sure you understand your deductible; some are as high as $3,000, which comes out of your pocket immediately in case of damage. Finally, speak with your credit card company before you leave home. Many credit cards already include car rental collision and damage insurance as a membership benefit, but won't cover you if you purchase insurance from the rental company as well.

Damage -- Inspect your car carefully and note every damaged or missing item, no matter how minute, on your rental agreement, or you may be charged. And if you'll be driving in cities, watch out for screw-in radio antennae, which are easy for a vandal to take off the car and expensive to replace.

Breakdowns -- If your car breaks down on the road, help might already be on the way. Radio-equipped green repair trucks operated by uniformed English-speaking officers patrol major highways from 8am to 6pm, 365 days a year. These Green Angels (tel. 078) perform minor repairs and adjustments free, but you pay for parts and materials.

Your best guide to repair shops in Baja is a friend who knows. However, the Yellow Pages can work in a pinch. For repairs, look under "Automóviles y Camiones: Talleres de Reparación y Servicio"; auto-parts stores are under "Refacciones y Accesorios para Automóviles." To find a mechanic on the road, ask a local (because Baja is so rough on cars, most locals know a mechanic) or look for a sign that says TALLER MECANICO.

Places called vulcanizadora or llantera repair flat tires, and it is common to find them open 24 hours a day on the most traveled highways.

Minor Accidents -- When possible, many Mexicans drive away from minor accidents or try to make an immediate settlement, to avoid involving the police. If the police arrive while the involved persons are still at the scene, everyone may be locked in jail until blame is assessed -- this is why you need proof of liability insurance! In any case, you have to settle up immediately, which may take days. Foreigners without fluent Spanish are at a distinct disadvantage. If you're involved in an accident, don't panic. If you're driving your own car, notify your Mexican insurance company, whose job it is to intervene on your behalf. If you're driving a rental, notify the rental company immediately and follow their instructions. When the police arrive, show them your proof of liability insurance. Finally, if all else fails, ask to contact the nearest Green Angel, who may be able to explain your case to officials.

Taxis -- For those who prefer not to drive, taxis are a convenient and economical way to get around in almost all of Baja's resort areas. (The exception to this is Los Cabos, where distances are long and taxis are very expensive: the 35-min. one-way trip between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, for example, averages $50.) But otherwise, short trips within towns are inexpensive compared to the U.S. Fixed rates between set destinations are usually set by the local taxi union; drivers will often have a written table of prices they can show you. For longer trips or excursions to nearby cities, taxis can generally be hired for around $15 to $20 per hour, or for a negotiated daily rate, although you may find a tour operator offering the same price, but including a guide, water, and snacks. If you're traveling from point to point, a negotiated one-way price may be cheaper than a rental car, and much faster than the bus. Many taxi drivers speak English, especially in Los Cabos and Northern Baja, but your hotel can help arrange a taxi if you prefer.

By Bus

Bus service is not as well developed in the Baja peninsula as in other parts of the country, although it is available between principal points. Travel class is generally labeled segunda (second), primera (first), and ejecutiva (deluxe). Autotransportes de Baja California (tel. 800/025-0222; www.transportes-abc.com) and the affiliated Autotransportes Aguila (tel. 800/824-8452; www.autotransportesaguila.net) have routes between most cities. The deluxe buses usually have fewer seats than regular buses, show movies en route, are air-conditioned, have bathrooms, and make few stops; some have complimentary refreshments. Many run express from origin to the final destination. They are well worth the few dollars more that you'll pay.

By Plane

It's a long drive from north to south, and reluctant road warriors may find the easiest way to travel the length of the peninsula is by plane. Mexican discount carrier Volaris (tel. 866/988-3527 in the U.S., or 01-800/122-8000; www.volaris.com.mx) flies daily between Los Cabos or La Paz and Tijuana. Turboprop carrier Aereo Calafia (tel. 01-800/560-3949; www.aereocalafia.com.mx) flies between Cabo San Lucas (CSL) -- not Los Cabos International, but the small general aviation airport outside of Cabo -- up the peninsula to Loreto, La Paz, and the small airports of Santa Rosalía, Ciudad Constitución, and Guerrero Negro on an ever-changing schedule. The similar Aereo Servicios Guerrero (tel. 01-800/823-3153; www.aereoserviciosguerrero.com.mx) connects Guerrero Negro and Ensenada.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Mexico is a largely conservative country, with deeply rooted Catholic religious traditions that are prevalent in many communities. Public displays of same-sex affection are rare and still considered shocking for men, especially outside of urban or resort areas; however, gay and lesbian travelers are generally treated with respect and should not experience any harassment, assuming they pay the appropriate regard to local culture and customs. Los Cabos and La Paz are both very gay-friendly resort destinations, with a few gay bars each, although for serious clubbing you'll have to go to Tijuana. Purple Roofs (www.purpleroofs.com) lists many gay-friendly and gay-owned hotel and rental properties in Los Cabos and Baja. Alyson Adventures (tel. 800/825-9766; www.alysonadventures.com) offers gay and lesbian adventure-travel tours, including a Baja-specific kayaking tour from La Paz to Loreto.

Getting There

By Plane

Baja California has four international airports, three in the southern half of the peninsula and one, Tijuana, in the less-populated north. Los Cabos International (SJD), by far the busiest Baja airport, is well-connected to most U.S. and Canadian airline hubs. You can connect to Los Cabos, La Paz (LAP), and Tijuana (TIJ) from major destinations in Mexico as well. Traveling to the south, you'll find the best fares to Los Cabos. Those traveling to Tijuana and the north may find their best flight connections and prices are an hour north of the border in San Diego (SAN), served by most major U.S. airlines.

Arriving at the Airport -- Before landing, you'll be asked to fill out a tourist card. You disembark the plane -- often directly onto the tarmac -- and enter the line for immigration. Present your passport and tourist card, and immigration officials will stamp your passport with a tourist visa and give you back half of your tourist card. Keep this slip of paper with you; you'll turn it in to your airline when you depart the country. You will then pass to baggage claim, pick up your luggage, and pass through customs. You'll be asked to put all your luggage through a scanner, and then to push a button. If it lights up green, you are free to pass through; if red, you may have your luggage searched. All in all, expect about 20 minutes from landing to leaving.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Los Cabos and La Paz airports offer inexpensive shuttle services; buy your tickets from booths inside the terminal as you exit. Otherwise, taxis at all airports meet arriving flights; most drivers speak English. In Los Cabos and Loreto, watch out for sneaky timeshare sales reps who may pretend to be taxi drivers! Taxis are clearly marked cars outside at the curb, not guys with clipboards waiting for you in the terminal; mix them up and you may find yourself on a timeshare tour.

By Car

Depending on where you're coming from, driving can be an economical way to get to Baja, and once you're there, it's a convenient way to travel the region. But driving the peninsula from north to south is a haul -- 27 hours for the 1,220km (758 miles) from Tijuana to Los Cabos -- and, while travelers to Baja don't need to jump through the import hoops they would driving to other parts of Mexico, it's important to have your papers in order before you go. Rental cars in Mexico generally are clean and well maintained, although they are often smaller than rentals in the U.S., may have manual rather than automatic transmission, and can be comparatively expensive due to pricey mandatory insurance. Discounts are often available for rentals of a week or longer, especially when you make arrangements in advance online or from the United States. Be careful about estimated online rates, which usually fail to include the price of the mandatory insurance.

To check on road conditions or to get help with any travel emergency while in Mexico, call tel. 800/482-9832 in the United States or 55/5089-7500 in Mexico City. English-speaking operators staff both numbers. The Discover Baja Travel Club is a long-standing favorite among Baja road warriors for insurance, travel tips, permits, and more (www.discoverbaja.com). If you're ready for a Baja road trip in your own car, read on.

Point-to-Point Driving Directions Online -- You can get point-to-point driving directions in English for anywhere in Mexico from the website of the Secretary of Communication and Transport. The site will also calculate tolls, distance, and travel time. Go to http://aplicaciones4.sct.gob.mx/sibuac_internet and click on "Rutas punto a punto" in the left-hand column. Then select the English version.

Border Crossings -- Baja borders the United States along its entire northern border, with main crossings at Tijuana, Tecate, and Mexicali. Entering Mexico by car, you'll need to fill out the same FMM tourist card travelers by plane do, with the difference that if you're staying in Mexico longer than 8 days, you'll have to pay 262 pesos for yours at a bank at some point before you leave the country. (If you're staying in Mexico for fewer than 8 days, it's free).

Southbound, Tijuana is more convenient for further Baja travel, but northbound lines to reenter the U.S. by car are much longer -- allow at least 2 hours from Tijuana, 1 hour from Mexicali, and expect to wait longer on weekends. A more laid-back option is the crossing at Tecate, 48km (30 miles) east of Tijuana, which locals say is a breeze. For wait times at the border, call the U.S. numbers tel. 619/690-8999 for Tijuana/San Ysidro, tel. 760/768-2383 for Mexicali/Calexico, tel. 619/938-8300 for Tecate, or check the U.S. Customs and Border Patrol's website at apps.cbp.gov/bwt for real-time updates.

Car Documents -- As long as you stay in Baja, you don't need any special papers for your car other than Mexican auto insurance . If your tour takes you into other states, even for the day, you'll need a temporary car-importation permit, available through some Mexican consulates in the U.S.; in CIITEV offices operated by Banco del Ejército (Banjercito) in the Mexican customs offices at land borders; or online at www.banjercito.com.mx, no more than 180 and no fewer than 7 days before you intend to cross the border to allow time to mail you the permit. The permit costs between $40 and $52, depending on where it's issued, and if you pay cash, you'll need to post a cash bond you get back when you check your car out. Another good reason to stay in Baja!

Important reminder: Someone else may drive, but the person (or relative of the person) whose name appears on the car-importation permit must always be in the car. (If stopped by police, a nonregistered family member driving without the registered driver must be prepared to prove familial relationship to the registered driver -- no joke.) Violation of this rule subjects the car to impoundment and the driver to imprisonment, a fine, or both. You can drive a car with foreign license plates only if you have a foreign (non-Mexican) driver's license.

Mexican Auto Insurance (Seguros de Auto) -- Personal liability auto insurance is legally required in Mexico. U.S. insurance is invalid; to be insured in Mexico, you must purchase Mexican insurance, and you must have proof of U.S. insurance to acquire it. Any party involved in an accident who has no insurance may be sent to jail and have his or her car impounded until all claims are settled. This is true even if you just drive across the border to spend the day. U.S. companies that broker Mexican insurance are commonly found at border crossings, and several quote daily rates.

Discover Baja Travel Club, 3264 Governor Dr., San Diego, CA 92122, is a friendly place to start (tel. 800/727-2252; www.discoverbaja.com). You can also buy car insurance through Sanborn's Mexico Insurance (tel. 800/222-0158; www.sanbornsinsurance.com). The company has offices at all U.S. border crossings. Its policies cost the same as the competition's do, but you get legal coverage (attorney and bail bonds if needed) and a detailed mile-by-mile guide for your proposed route. Most of Sanborn's border offices are open Monday through Friday, and a few are staffed on Saturday and Sunday. AAA auto club also sells insurance.

Returning to the United States with Your Car -- If you have a temporary car import permit because you were traveling outside of Baja, you must return the car papers you obtained when you entered Mexico when you cross back with your car, or at some point within 180 days. (You can cross as many times as you wish within the 180 days.) If the documents aren't returned, heavy fines are imposed ($250 for each 15 days late), and your car may be impounded and confiscated or you may be jailed if you return to Mexico. You can only return the car documents to a Banjercito official on duty at the Mexican Customs building before you cross back into the United States. Again, if you were only traveling within Baja, this doesn't apply to you.

By Bus

Greyhound Bus Lines (tel. 800/231-2222 in the U.S.; www.greyhound.com) offers service nearly 24 hours daily for $13 one-way between San Diego and Tijuana via the San Ysidro border crossing, stopping at Tijuana's Rodriguez airport (TIJ) and ending up at Tijuana's Central de Autobuses, where you can connect to Mexican bus lines for destinations farther down Baja. Mexicoach (tel. 619/428-9517 in the U.S., or 664/685-1470) runs a similar service (hourly, 5am-10pm) between San Ysidro and Tijuana for $4 one-way/$6 round-trip, and for $13 one-way/$20 round-trip it will take you as far as Rosarito. Mexican discount airliner Volaris also runs a shuttle between San Diego's Santa Fe train station and Tijuana airport for passengers; cost is $15.

By Train & Trolley

Baja has no trains, but the blue line of San Diego's Tijuana Trolley (tel. 619/595-4949; www.sdmts.com) connects downtown San Diego with the San Ysidro/Tijuana border crossing daily from before 5am to after midnight. The fare is $2.50; the trip takes about an hour from San Diego's Old Town. From points in the U.S., ride Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com) to San Diego and transfer to the Trolley at Old Town or Santa Fe stations, both downtown and a few minutes' taxi ride from San Diego's international airport. From Tijuana, walk through the border crossing; the Trolley stop is right outside as you exit.

By Boat

Cabo San Lucas is a popular port of call for West Coast cruise ships on their way to Puerto Vallarta and points south. Ships dock at the purpose-built cruise ship port on Bulevar Marina downtown, the staging ground for snorkel and boat tours and a stone's throw from Cabo's touristy downtown. Three-day cruises go from Long Beach, California, to Ensenada and dock a 20-minute walk or a $3 taxi ride from downtown's bars and shopping.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Mexico's telephone system is slowly but surely catching up with modern times. Every city and town that has telephone access has a three-digit area code (everywhere except for Mexico City, Monterrey, and Guadalajara, whose area codes are two digits). Local numbers have seven digits (except for in Mexico City, Monterrey, and Guadalajara, where local numbers have eight digits). To place a local call, you do not need to dial the area code. Mexico's area codes (claves) are listed in the front of telephone directories, as well as in "Area Codes." Area codes are listed before all phone numbers in this guide; when an establishment has two phone numbers with the same area code, we will only list the area code once.

To call long distance within Mexico, the cheapest way is by using the Ladatel phone booths, into which you insert prepaid cards -- available at most pharmacies and convenience stores. Steer clear of calling home from your hotel room, which can cost as much as $10 per minute. Instead, insert a Ladatel card (available in increments of $5, $10, $20, and $50 -- the $10 card is plenty for two 10-min. calls home) and dial as explained below. For long-distance dialing, you will often see the term "LADA," which is the automatic long-distance service offered by Telmex, Mexico's former telephone monopoly and its largest phone company.

To make a person-to-person or collect call inside Mexico, dial tel. 020. You can also call 020 to request the correct area codes for the number and place you are calling.

Many fax numbers are also regular telephone numbers; ask whoever answers for the fax tone ("me da tono de fax, por favor?"). Cellular phones are widely used as an alternative to land lines for small businesses in resort areas and all businesses in smaller communities; they have the same local area codes as their registered users and consist of seven or eight digits just as land lines do. For dialing instructions, read on.

The country code for Mexico is 52.

To call the Baja peninsula from outside Mexico:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 52.

3. Dial the two- or three-digit city code and then the seven-digit number. For example, if you wanted to call the U.S. consulate in Tijuana, the entire number would be 011-52-664-622-7400.

To call the Baja peninsula from inside Mexico: For local calls, dial only the seven-digit number. For long-distance calls within Mexico, dial 01 before dialing the area code and number.

Cellular phone calls: To call a cell number inside the same area code, dial 044 and then the full 10-digit number, including the city code. To dial a cellphone from outside its local area code, dial 045, then the three-digit area code and the seven- or eight-digit number. To dial a Mexican cellphone from the U.S., dial 011-52-1, then the three-digit area code and the seven- or eight-digit number.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Baja, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial 040 if you're looking for a number inside Mexico, and dial 090 for numbers to all other countries.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 090 if you're trying to make an international call and 020 if you want to call a number in Mexico.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 01-800 within Mexico are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States or Canada from Mexico is not. It costs the same as any other overseas call. Replace 800 with 877 and it should work.

Mobile Phones

Mobile service in Los Cabos and Baja is spotty; there's essentially one provider, Mexican Telcel, and little coverage outside of towns and resort areas, which means if you break down on the highway, you may not be able to make calls. (Mexico's other provider, Movistar, has limited coverage.) Telcel uses 1900 Mhz GSM and 800 Mhz for 3G. Because Mexico has recently imposed heavy restrictions on pay-as-you-go mobile SIM cards, buying a throwaway phone number to use here is no longer an option. At present, there's no one renting cellphones in Baja, so that leaves your home mobile phone. T-Mobile, AT&T, and Vodafone have roaming agreements with Telcel, and so their coverage is best; you may be able to use your Verizon phone in resort areas. Check for coverage from other carriers at www.telcel.com. Make sure to activate your international service before you leave home.

If you're going to be traveling in remote areas or spending nights on the water and need to keep in touch, you may want to consider bringing a satellite phone. You can rent them before your trip from Telestial (tel. 213/337-5560 in the U.S.; www.telestial.com).

Internet & Wi-Fi

Internet access, usually Wi-Fi, is widely available in Los Cabos and Baja, offered by nearly all hotels and many restaurants and cafes for free. It's usually offered through national telephone provider Telmex -- you'll see signs with the logo "infinitum" -- and is generally of a speed and bandwidth comparable to the United States. Some U.S. mobile Internet customers can roam for free on Telmex networks; check with your provider for details. If not, you can buy daily access by following instructions as you would in the U.S.

Health & Safety

Baja has come a long way toward eliminating the water and food contamination that causes traveler's diarrhea and more serious ailments like typhoid and salmonella. The digestive troubles plaguing travelers in mainland Mexico are virtually unheard of here. You can ensure your good health by washing your hands frequently, drinking only purified water, and steering clear of mobile food vendors, whose offerings may not have been prepared in sanitary conditions and in any case can suffer in the heat. Avoid salads and raw vegetables you haven't washed yourself; if you buy produce in a grocery store, soak it for a half-hour in a solution 1 liter water to ten drops microdyne (available at most grocers) before eating it. And when it comes to ceviche, follow your gut.

Should you be unlucky, you can stop the diarrhea with Imodium and rehydrate with Gatorade, Pedialyte, or a solution of salt, sugar, and purified water. If you have a fever or if illness persists more than a day, see a doctor.

Prescription medicine is broadly available at Mexican pharmacies. In Tijuana you may need a doctor's prescription for things sold over-the-counter farther south.

Over-the-Counter Drugs in Mexico -- Mexican pharmacies carry a limited selection of common over-the-counter cold, sinus, and allergy remedies, similar to what you'll find at home but often with different names. A pharmacist at a major pharmacy can usually look up the U.S. or Canadian drug name and find a Mexican equivalent. Be aware that while many drugs for which you'd need a prescription in the U.S. are sold over-the-counter in Mexico, as of 2011 you'll need a prescription for antibiotics. But they're still much less expensive than at home.

Dietary Choices

Baja can be a challenge for vegans, vegetarians, or anyone who observes any kind of strict dietary regimen. Although it's possible to find vegetarian options on restaurant menus, it's not always guaranteed; the beans on your plate of scrambled eggs probably contain pork.

Mexico has no official certification body for organic foods sold inside the country, but many fruit and vegetable growers in Northern and Southern Baja use organic methods and sell their produce as such. (Mid-Baja has little in the way of agriculture at all.) Ask around at farmers' markets for more sources. You can pretty much forget about finding organically raised free-range meat or eggs, but some restaurants source from local farmers who purport to use more natural methods to raise animals.

Also, of note, salsas generally pack more heat in Mexico than in the U.S., so if you're sensitive to chiles, take it slow on your first taste.

Bites & Stings

Mosquitoes and gnats are thankfully less common in Baja than in more humid parts of Mexico, but it can still get buggy on some parts of the coast. If you're prone to bites, bring along a repellent that contains the active ingredient DEET, or ask at a pharmacy for repelente contra insectos. In the U.S. and Mexico you'll also find non-chemical, citronella-based formulas that work just as well, but need more frequent application. If all else fails, antihistamine cream will control itching.

Baja's desert areas are full of scorpions (alacránes), and although very few are deadly you'll want to watch out for them. Shake out clothes, towels, sheets, and shoes before using them, and if you are stung, go immediately to a doctor. If you're planning to camp in remote areas, it's not a bad idea to bring along a scorpion toxin antidote, available at drugstores for about $25.

Watch out for rattlesnakes while hiking; they'll only bite as a last resort and will warn you beforehand! Should the unthinkable happen, do not cut open the wound or try to suck out venom. Keep the victim still and calm, elevate the affected area, and get to a doctor right away.

The most common name for the tiny jellyfish stings you may feel while swimming is agua mala (bad water). While irritating, these stings are far less painful than those from Portuguese man-of-war, common enough in summer that some people swim with a Lycra skin for protection. If you do get stung, don't rub the wound. Most boat captains have vinegar on hand to pour over the affected area and ease the pain.

You're unlikely to encounter stingrays in the shallows of Baja's beaches. But you're even less likely if you shuffle your feet in the sand as you go into the water, warning away any who may be dozing in the sand. If you are stung, get medical help as soon as possible; very hot water or, in a pinch, heating the wound on hot rocks or sand is said to ease the pain.

Sun Exposure

The injury you're most likely to suffer in Baja is sunburn. It's easy to prevent: wear sunscreen, a hat, and long sleeves, and stay out of the sun at midday. Remember that you get more sun on boats than you do on the beach.

Safety

If ever a country had an image problem, it's Mexico. From the drug war along the northern border to the 2009 flu scare to the nicknaming of its capital city "The Monster," a potential visitor could be forgiven for thinking twice. It's not all sensationalism; the war against and, more pertinently, between Mexico's powerful drug cartels has killed more than 30,000 people since 2006, and the violence continues.

The good news is, you won't encounter anything remotely resembling a drug war in Los Cabos and Baja. Southern Baja has one of Mexico's lowest crime rates; U.S. and Canadian expatriates living in places like Loreto and La Paz even leave their doors unlocked. The only exception to this happy rule is Tijuana, which as the world's busiest border crossing, the principal point of transit between Mexico and the U.S., and Mexico's fifth-largest city remains a juicy prize for the bad guys. While the murder rate in TJ remains high (as high as Detroit, although lower than New Orleans), the numbers don't reflect the victims -- nearly all of whom are Mexicans, and most of whom appear to be connected to the drug war. But even in Tijuana, tourists are very rarely victims of violent crime; no tourists have ever been killed in the drug war in Baja. The U.S. State Department (travel.state.gov) issued a Travel Warning in April 2011 that begins with the following paragraph:

"Millions of U.S. citizens safely visit Mexico each year, including more than 150,000 who cross the border every day for study, tourism or business and at least one million U.S. citizens who live in Mexico. The Mexican government makes a considerable effort to protect U.S. citizens and other visitors to major tourist destinations. Resort areas and tourist destinations in Mexico generally do not see the levels of drug-related violence and crime reported in the border region and in areas along major trafficking routes. Nevertheless, crime and violence are serious problems and can occur anywhere. While most victims of violence are Mexican citizens associated with criminal activity, the security situation poses serious risks for U.S. citizens as well." Nearly all of the document's specific warnings have to do with non-Baja border areas and Mexico City; the U.S. Embassy in Mexico's Security Updates for 2010 to 2011 mention only a few incidents in Baja involving U.S. citizens -- one mugging in Cabo San Lucas in October 2010, and an increase in robberies at gunpoint in Tijuana, Rosarito, and on the Mexican side of both Tijuana border crossings. The State Department's "Spring Break-Know Before You Go" publication (under the "International Travel" heading at http://travel.state.gov) warns Baja travelers not of crime, but of riptides on Pacific beaches and buying illegal prescription drugs in Tijuana.

What all this means is that there's no reason to be scared of Los Cabos and Baja. But there's reason to be smart about your travel, especially around Tijuana south to Ensenada. It's not a good idea to wear lots of flashy jewelry or expensive watches, to walk alone on empty streets late at night, to appear visibly intoxicated or, on the coast between Tijuana and Ensenada, to camp outside of guarded campgrounds. Watch yourself at night around the Tijuana/San Ysidro and Otay Mesa border crossings. And although incidents of road crime are rare, it's just that little bit safer to take the cuota toll highway to Ensenada than the libre freeway. Take the same precautions you would in any U.S. city, and you'll be fine. Should you fall victim to crime, the Ministry of Tourism has set up toll-free numbers to call from the U.S. and Canada (tel. 866/201-5060) and Mexico (tel. 078), staffed 24 hours daily with English-speaking operators who can coordinate help from the police.

Women traveling alone don't have to take any precautions that men traveling alone wouldn't, but they should expect a certain amount of unsolicited attention that may at times feel threatening. To minimize it, take the lead of the many Mexican women you'll see on their own in Los Cabos and Baja: Dress conservatively, behave responsibly, and greet unwanted advances with a polite "no."

Where you really should watch out, though, is driving. Baja's roads are lined with crosses remembering people who didn't.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Note: Banks, government offices, and many stores close on national holidays.

January

Día de Año Nuevo (New Year's Day). This national holiday is perhaps the quietest day in all of Mexico. Most people stay home or attend church on the first day of the year. All businesses are closed. In traditional indigenous communities, new tribal leaders are inaugurated with colorful ceremonies rooted in the pre-Hispanic past. January 1.

Día de los Reyes (Three Kings Day). This day commemorates the day the Three Wise Men arrived bearing gifts for the Christ Child. On this day, children receive gifts, much like the traditional Christmas gift-giving in the United States, although Santa Claus has melded with Mexican traditions in Los Cabos. Friends and families gather to share the Rosca de Reyes, a ring-shaped cake. Inside the cake is a small doll representing the Christ Child; whoever receives the doll must host a tamales-and-atole party on February 2, or Dos de la Candelaria. January 6.

February

Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas). Music, dances, processions, food, and other festivities lead up to a blessing of seed and candles in a ceremony that mixes pre-Hispanic and European traditions marking the end of winter. Those who attended the Three Kings celebration reunite to share atole and tamales at a party hosted by the recipient of the doll found in the Rosca. February 2.

Día de la Constitución (Constitution Day). This national holiday is in honor of the current Mexican constitution, signed in 1917 as a result of the revolutionary war of 1910. It's celebrated through small parades. February 5.

Carnaval. Carnaval takes place over the 3 days before the beginning of Lent. La Paz celebrates with special zeal, and visitors enjoy a festive atmosphere and parades. The 3 days preceding Ash Wednesday.

Miércoles de Ceniza (Ash Wednesday). The start of Lent and time of abstinence, this is a day of reverence nationwide; some towns honor it with folk dancing and fairs.

March

Feria de San José. The end of March brings a weeklong party to downtown San José del Cabo, where carnival rides and games, traditional Mexican food, and jewelry and knickknack vendors fill the streets. San José Day is March 19.

Semana Santa (Holy Week). This week celebrates the last week in the life of Christ from Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday with somber religious processions almost nightly, spoofing of Judas, and reenactments of biblical events, plus food and crafts fairs. Businesses close during this traditional week of Mexican national vacations. If you plan on traveling to or around Mexico during Holy Week, make reservations early. Late March or April.

May

El Día del Trabajo (Labor Day). Workers' parades take place countrywide, and everything closes on this national holiday. May 1.

La Paz Foundation, La Paz. This celebration observes the founding of La Paz by Cortez in 1535 and features artesanía exhibitions from throughout Southern Baja. May 1 to May 5.

Cinco de Mayo. This holiday commemorates the defeat of the French at the Battle of Puebla. May 5.

June

Día de la Marina (Navy Day). This day is celebrated in all coastal towns, with naval parades and fireworks. June 1.

Corpus Christi. This day, celebrated nationwide, honors the Body of Christ (the Eucharist) with processions, Masses, and food. Mulitas (mules), handmade from dried cornhusks and painted, are traditionally sold outside all churches on that day to represent a prayer for fertility. Dates vary, but celebrations take place on the Thursday following "Holy Trinity" Sunday.

August

Fiestas de la Vendimia (Wine Harvest Festival). Ensenada's food-and-wine festival celebrates the annual harvest, with blessings, seminars, parties, and wine tastings. Call tel. 800/44-MEXICO (800/446-3942) for details and schedule. Mid- to late August.

September

Día de la Independencia (Independence Day). This national holiday celebrates Mexico's independence from Spain with a day of parades, picnics, and family reunions throughout the country. At 11pm on September 15, the president of Mexico gives the famous independence grito (shout) from the National Palace in Mexico City. At least half a million people crowd into the capital's zócalo (town square), and the mayor of each town across the country gives the grito in front of thousands in his own town square. Those who don't venture into the craziness of their main plaza to celebrate do watch the event on TV. September 15 and 16.

October

Festival Fundador. This festival celebrates the founding of the town of Todos Santos in 1723. Streets around the main plaza fill with food, games, and wandering troubadours. October 10 to October 14.

Día de la Raza (Ethnicity Day, or Columbus Day). This day commemorates the fusion of the Spanish and Mexican peoples. October 12.

November

Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). This national holiday (Nov 1) actually lasts for 2 days: All Saints' Day -- honoring saints and deceased children -- and All Souls' Day, honoring deceased adults. Relatives gather at cemeteries countrywide, carrying candles, food, flowers, and colorful decorations, and often spend the night beside graves of loved ones. Weeks before, bakers begin producing bread in the shape of mummies or round loaves decorated with bread "bones." Sugar skulls emblazoned with glitter are sold everywhere. Many days ahead, homes and churches erect altars laden with bread, fruit, flowers, candles, favorite foods, and photographs of saints and of the deceased as a way of remembering them. Traditionally, costumed children walk through the streets both nights carrying mock coffins and pumpkin lanterns, into which they expect money will be dropped. However, in Americanized Los Cabos, costumed kids are out in full force for Halloween rather than on Day of the Dead. November 1 and 2.

Día de la Revolución (Revolution Day). This national holiday commemorates the start of the Mexican revolution in 1910 with parades, speeches, rodeos, and patriotic events. November 20.

December

Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe (Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe). Religious processions, street fairs, dancing, fireworks, and Masses honor Mexico's patroness. It is one of the country's most moving and beautiful displays of traditional culture. The Virgin of Guadalupe, an apparition of the Virgin Mary, appeared to a young man, Juan Diego, in December 1531 on a hill near Mexico City. Her image in a cloth is on display at the Basílica de Guadalupe in Mexico City. It's customary for children to dress up as Juan Diego, wearing mustaches and red bandannas. December 12.

Christmas Posadas. On each of the 9 nights before Christmas, it's customary to reenact Mary and Joseph's search for an inn in which to have the baby Jesus. Door-to-door candlelit processions pass through cities and villages nationwide. Hosted by businesses, community organizations, and even among friends, these take the place of the northern tradition of a Christmas party. December 15 to December 24.

Navidad (Christmas). Mexicans extend this celebration and leave their jobs, often beginning 2 weeks before Christmas and continuing all the way through New Year's. Many businesses close, and resorts and hotels fill. December 23 to December 25.

Víspera de Año Nuevo (New Year's Eve). As in the rest of the world, New Year's Eve in Mexico is celebrated with parties, fireworks, and plenty of noise. However, contrary to U.S. custom, Mexicans celebrate the New Year at home over a traditional dinner with their families and then hit the town after midnight. December 31.

Special-Interest Vacations

Language Classes & Academic Trips

Language Learning -- As a crossroads of Anglophone and Spanish-speaking cultures, Baja is a great place to study Spanish. La Paz and Ensenada are home to a number of language programs, some of which include homestays and tours. In La Paz, check out Study Abroad International (www.studyabroadinternational.com), Centro de Idiomas, Cultura y Comunicacion (www.cicclapaz.com), or Se Habla La Paz (www.sehablalapaz.com). In Ensenada, Baja California Language College (www.bajacal.com) and Center of Languages (www.spanishschoolbaja.com) offer full-immersion programs.

Photo Safaris -- Road Scholar (tel. 800/454-5768 in the U.S.; www.roadscholar.org) and Jim Cline photo tours (tel. 858/350-1314 in the U.S., or 877/350-1314; www.jimcline.com) organize Baja tours to some of the greatest photo ops, and help photographers make the most of them.

Art Tours -- Several tour companies organize guided tours to the missions and the ancient cave paintings of mid-Baja: Tour Baja (tel. 800/398-6200 and 707/942-4550 in the U.S.; www.tourbaja.com) and Mulegé Tours (tel. 615/153-0232; www.mulegetours.com; at the Las Casitas Hotel in downtown Mulegé). Baja Outback's 4-day Mission Trail Expedition (tel. 624/142-9200; www.bajaoutback.com) combines cave paintings with visits to the missions of Loreto, Mulegé, La Purisima, San Miguel, San José de Comondu, and San Javier.

For a look at some of Baja's present-day art, check out the art tours of San José and Todos Santos offered by Cabo San Lucas Tours (tel. 866/348-6286 in the U.S., or 800/822-4577; www.cabosanlucastours.net). Turista Libre (http://turistalibre.com) offers idiosyncratic walking and bike tours of Tijuana street art and galleries.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Motorcycle Tours -- Cabo BMW Rentals, on Lázaro Cárdenas across from McDonald's in Cabo San Lucas (tel. 866/241-9899 in the U.S., or 624/143-2640; http://jimster.net/bmw_rentals/index.htm), offers guided and self-guided motorcycle tours around Southern Baja. A good resource for motorcyclists in B.C.S. (Baja California Sur) is the Cabo Loop Riders Guide, available for $25 through their website.

Outdoor Adventure -- Baja has as many tours into its natural wonders as there are wonders to explore. Mule treks, Humvee expeditions, ranch living, and beach camping are just a start; check out trips organized by Baja Expeditions (tel. 800/843-6967 or 858/581-3311 in the U.S.; www.bajaex.com), Tour Baja (tel. 800/398-6200 or 707/942-4550 in the U.S.; fax 707/942-8017; www.tourbaja.com), Natural Habitat Adventures (tel. 800/543-8917 or 303/449-3711 in the U.S.; www.nathab.com), Sea and Land Eco Tours (tel. 613/144-7294; http://loretoseaandland.com), and Baja Outback (www.bajaoutback.com). Baja Trek (tel. 619/937-1546 in the U.S., or 665/391-1682; www.bajatrek.com) organizes carbon-neutral surfing, hiking, and beach tours aboard their retrofitted school bus or in more comfortable vans.

Sea Kayaking -- The Sea of Cortez is one of the world's great kayaking locations, with a wealth of offshore islands to explore. Experts and beginners alike are welcome on trips by Sea Trek (tel. 415/488-1000 in the U.S.; fax 415/488-1707; www.seatrekkayak.com), Mountain Travel Sobek (tel. 800/227-2384, 888/687-6235, or 510/527-8100 in the U.S.; www.mtsobek.com), and Sea and Land Eco Tours (tel. 613/144-7294; http://loretoseaandland.com). In addition to Sea of Cortez trips, Sea Kayak Adventures (tel. 800/616-1943 or 208/765-3116 in the U.S.; fax 208/765-5254; www.seakayakadventures.com) has the exclusive permit to paddle Magdalena Bay's remote northern waters, and they guarantee gray whale sightings.

Surfing -- Baja's waves are world-famous, and whether you're a beginner or a veteran, this is a great place to hang ten. Baja Surf Adventures (tel. 800/428-7873 in the U.S.; www.bajasurfadventures.com) organizes trips to Northern, Central, and Southern Baja's Pacific coast; they do surfing lessons too. Baja Trek (tel. 619/937-1546 in the U.S., or 665/391-1682 in Mexico; www.bajatrek.com) organizes low-budget surf tours from its "hostel on wheels" that hit all Baja's major surfing sites. Women only need apply at Milagro Retreats' Surfari (tel. 866/373-4316; www.milagroretreats.com), a women's surf retreat in Todos Santos.

Yoga -- Spiritual wellness is a growth industry in Baja, and many yoga centers offer weeklong retreats centered on a daily schedule of yoga and meditative practice, often held at the off-grid Prana del Mar on the West Cape. Contact Prana del Mar directly, or go through Milagros Retreats (tel. 866/373-4316; www.milagroretreats.com).

Food & Wine Trips

All the wineries in Northern Baja offer tours and tastings by appointment or are open to the public. Local hotels can help arrange transportation to visit a few at a time, working in wine tastings, lunch, a cheese tasting and even a horseback ride. Talk to Casa Natalie (tel. 619/246-9772 or 646/174-7373; www.hotelcasanatalie.com) or Adobe Guadalupe (tel. 649/631-3098 in the U.S., or 646/155-2094; www.adobeguadalupe.com).

But Northern Baja's foodie destinations are also close enough to the border for a day trip from San Diego. Baja California Tours (tel. 858/454-7166 in the U.S.) offers a day tour of three wineries and lunch in the Guadalupe Valley. The Baja California Lobster Culinary Tour takes in tourist sights in Tijuana and Rosarito, with a lunch of guess what in Puerto Nuevo; contact Destination Store (tel. 866/431-1634 in the U.S.; www.destination-store.com) for details.

Volunteer & Working Trips

A variety of sea turtle conservation organizations offer visitors the chance to participate in nest monitoring and hatchling release in summer, and research and tagging year-round. Check out trips from Earthwatch (www.earthwatch.org) and Baja Expeditions (www.bajaex.com), as well as summertime activities at Zoetry Casa del Mar and Las Ventanas al Paraíso.

Walking Tours

Discovering Baja's cities and towns from the inside is easier with a local who knows the turf and can open doors. Most of the companies listed under "Adventure & Wellness Trips" offer day trips from La Paz or Los Cabos. La Paz-based dive operator Fun Baja (tel. 612/106-7148; www.funbaja.com) offers walking tours of San José and Todos Santos, as well as the lesser-known villages of El Triunfo, near La Paz, and Pescadero, near Todos Santos, with offbeat stops like a silver smelter and a strawberry farm. Family-run Todos Santos Eco Adventures (tel. 619/446-6827 in the U.S., or 612/145-0189; www.tosea.net) will take you bird-watching, hiking, or walking along the cliffs and beaches near Todos Santos. Turista Libre's (http://turistalibre.com) offbeat cultural tours of Tijuana include art and architecture walks.

Visitor Information

The Mexico Tourism Board (tel. 800/446-3942; www.visitmexico.com) is an excellent source for general information; you can request brochures and get answers to the most common questions from the well-trained, knowledgeable staff. The tourism boards of Baja California (tel. 664/682-3367; www.discoverbajacalifornia.com) and Baja California Sur (tel. 612/124-0100; www.explorebajasur.com) have more Baja-specific information.

The following websites are useful: www.allaboutcabo.com, www.bajaquest.com, www.bajainsider.com, and www.rozinlapaz.com.

Money

Los Cabos and Baja are expensive in comparison to mainland Mexico, but still relatively cheap compared to the rest of North America. The farther away from Los Cabos you go, the lower the prices; a meal that might cost you 400 pesos in Cabo might cost you 350 in La Paz and 300 in Loreto. So-called "gringo" establishments -- owned by, run by, or catering to Americans and Canadians -- are fairly uniform in their (dollar-denominated) prices up and down the peninsula, while so-called "local" places are not only cheaper, but more dependent on location and thus what their markets can bear.

The currency in Mexico is the peso. Paper currency comes in denominations of 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 pesos, color-coded to make it easy to tell one from the other; for most bills, a slightly different old and new design are still in circulation, but the colors remain the same. Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, and 10 pesos, two-tone coins of different sizes, and 20 and 50 centavos (100 centavos = 1 peso) which are either gold-colored and ridged or silver-colored, tiny, and very light. (It's not uncommon for Mexicans to round nearly worthless centavos up or down when charging you or giving you change). The current exchange rate for the U.S. dollar, and the one used in this guide, is 12 pesos; at that rate, an item that costs 12 pesos would be equivalent to $1.

Although many businesses in Los Cabos and Baja will accept U.S. dollars -- indeed, many list their prices in dollars -- in most cases, you're better off using pesos. You'll pay less, because in Baja, dollar prices are usually calculated at 10 pesos to the dollar despite a currently higher exchange rate. In just one example, a $6 Los Cabos taxi ride paid in pesos was 60 pesos, or $5. And it's a sign of respect to Mexicans and their country to use their local currency, just as it is to speak whatever Spanish you can muster. It's easy to withdraw pesos at widely available ATMs for a small fee, or buy them at your home bank for the going rate. If you must use U.S. dollars, make sure to have bills smaller than a $20 that are clean and not overly worn -- it is up to the discretion of local businesses whether to accept your foreign bills or not! You can also change non-Mexican currency at a casa de cambio; however, the exchange rate you'll find at an ATM is generally more favorable. Most machines offer Spanish/English menus and dispense pesos, but some offer the option of withdrawing dollars. Note: Most ATMs in Mexico accept four-digit PINs only, so if you have a five- or six-digit number, check with your bank to see if you can get a temporary four-digit number for your trip.

Note: Establishments that quote their prices primarily in U.S. dollars are listed in this guide with U.S. dollars. Prices in this guide are listed in the currency advertised by the establishment.

Visa and MasterCard credit and debit cards are widely accepted by higher-end Baja hotels and restaurants, supermarkets, retail stores, and tour operators; American Express and other cards are not. At smaller hotels, restaurants, and retailers, expect to pay cash. Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement. Also be aware that even if prices are listed in dollars, your credit card will often be charged in pesos, which your bank will then convert back to your home currency, almost certainly at a higher cost than the dollar price you thought you were paying. Traveler's checks are not widely accepted in Los Cabos and Baja, and with rare exceptions, personal checks on a foreign bank account won't be accepted at all.

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates. For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost (MXN)

Taxi from the airport to downtown Cabo San Lucas 700.00

Double room, moderate 1,000.00-1,800.00

Double room, inexpensive 600.00-800.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 280.00

Bottle of beer 30.00-45.00

Cup of coffee 15.00-25.00

1 liter of premium gas 9.87

Half-day boat tour 300.00-500.00

Admission to most national parks 30.00-50.00

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mexico is a popular country for retirees. For decades, North Americans have been living indefinitely in Mexico by returning to the border and recrossing with a new tourist permit every 6 months. Mexican immigration officials have caught on, and now limit the maximum time in the country to 6 months within any year. This is to encourage even partial residents to acquire proper documentation.

AIM-Adventures in Mexico, Apdo. Postal 31-70, 45050 Guadalajara, Jal., is a well-written, informative newsletter for prospective retirees. Subscriptions are $29 to the United States.

Sanborn Tours, 2015 S. 10th St., PO Box 936, McAllen, TX 78505-0519 (tel. 800/395-8482; www.sanborns.com), offers a "Retire in Mexico" orientation tour.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Mexico may seem like one giant obstacle course to travelers in wheelchairs or on crutches -- and Baja California is no exception. Where curb cuts can be found, they are most often not up to standards, and cities like Loreto and San José del Cabo have difficult-to-navigate cobblestone streets. That being said, most high-end hotels have accessible rooms, including Las Ventanas al Paraíso, Guaycura, and the Rosarito Beach Hotel.

Disabled travelers can opt for a fishing excursion with Los Cabos Adventures (tel. 624/141-0790; www.bajaenterprises.com), a sportfishing tour operator that offers a wheelchair-accessible sportfishing yacht. Owner Larry Cooper, a wheelchair user himself, designed his sportfishing boat to be wheelchair accessible; he even offers free fishing tours to disabled kids and American veterans. Cooper also owns the Villa Tranquillo (tel. 624/141-0790; www.bajaenterprises.com/stay) in Los Barriles, a wheelchair-accessible villa; rates are $200 to $300 per night for accessible suites and casitas, with a 3-night minimum. He also rents out wheelchair-accessible vans and ATVs. In addition, most of the streets in the community of Los Barriles are well paved, allowing travelers the freedom to explore.

For ground transportation in Los Cabos, Transcabo (tel. 624/163-7373; www.transcabo.com) offers wheelchair-accessible vans. They can arrange for transportation to and from the airport and around the region. In Northern Baja Mexicoach (tel. 664/685-1470; www.mexicoach.com), offers first-class wheelchair-accessible buses and shuttles that take passengers from San Ysidro into Tijuana and Rosarito.

At the region's airports, you may encounter steep stairs before finding a well-hidden elevator or escalator -- if one exists -- and wheelchair ramps sometimes look more like alpine ski runs. Airlines will often arrange wheelchair assistance to the baggage area. Porters are generally available to help with luggage at airports and large bus stations, once you've cleared baggage claim.

The airports in Baja are relatively small compared to those in larger cities and none involve traveling through labyrinthine hallways. It's common in Baja to board from a remote position, meaning you either descend stairs to a bus that ferries you to the plane, which you board by climbing stairs, or you walk across the tarmac to your plane and ascend the stairs. Deplaning presents the same problem in reverse.

When to Go

Baja California is one of those rare four-season destinations, offering a different slant on fun in the sun for every month of the year. Prices are highest at Christmas and New Years, lower in the spring, and hit rock-bottom in the summer, the time for killer deals and comparatively empty beaches. Although hurricanes here are rare compared to the Caribbean, September does host a big blow now and then, so figure that into your plans. Air and water temperatures make a big difference in the kind of active vacations Baja was made for, so think about how you want to spend your time before you book. Winter waters are cold for diving and snorkeling, but cooler winter temperatures are just right for hiking and boating. Summer heat makes swimming a joy, but you'll bake by the pool.

If you're planning to surf, it bears mentioning that the surf switches sides with the seasons, so the waves break on the eastern side of the peninsula in the spring and summer (Mar-Oct) and on the west in the fall and winter (Nov-Mar). The most popular summer breaks start at San José's Playa Acapulquito and extend up the East Cape, while the hot spot for winter waves is Cerritos Beach, south of Todos Santos.

These days, there's hardly a time when you'll find Los Cabos and Baja overrun, but it's worth keeping a few major festivals in mind. Christmas and New Years are ultra-high season, when hotels and beaches fill up. March is fiesta time, with La Paz's Carnaval and San José del Cabo's Fiesta Patronal. The week leading up to Easter is the time when Mexicans from all over the country head to the beach; partying can be raucous and beaches packed. Mexican Independence Day, September 16, is a party throughout the country, and a fun time to visit cities like La Paz and Tijuana, where celebrations tend to be better-funded.

Weather

Baja may look like a desert, but there's more climatic variation than you might think. The north has a dry Mediterranean climate, with rain and cool nights in winter, and hot, dry summers. The east coast along the Sea of Cortez is much warmer than the Pacific coast summer and winter, and in late winter and early spring can be fantastically windy. The west (Pacific) coast is cool and breezy in winter and warm and breezy in summer, on average 5°C (10°F) cooler than the Sea of Cortez side. The same goes for water temperatures: In winter, it's too cold in the Pacific for anyone but the sea lions, but the Sea of Cortez is usually warmer, with winter averages of 22°C (71°F) and summer of 28°C (82°F).