Lubeck Attractions

Your sightseeing will be concentrated in Lübeck’s remarkable Altstadt, surrounded by the Trave River and its canals to lend an island-like appearance and atmosphere. Walking from the Hauptbanhof, you’ll cross into the Altstadt on the Puppenbrücke (Puppets Bridge), a stone span that got its irreverent name from the seven statues of classical gods and goddesses that stand on its railings.

The city mandated the use of brick after fires in the 13th century destroyed many wooden structures, creating a remarkably pleasing uniformity throughout the old town. You’ll notice that some of the medieval redbrick buildings are decorated with black glazed bricks. The black glaze comes from salt that was sprinkled onto the bricks before they were put in the kiln and is a measure of the wealth of the builder—salt was considered to be “white gold.”

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Lubeck Shopping

Lübeck is a center for antiques stores. One of the best is Antiquitäten Bannow Günther, Fleischhauerstrasse 87 (tel. 0451/77338), carrying antique silver, crystal, porcelain, books, pewter, and English, Danish, and German furniture; any article can be shipped to your home. And if you're looking for souvenirs that celebrate Lübeck's rich maritime traditions, head for the town's best handicrafts shop, Kunsthaus Lübeck, Königstrasse 20 (tel. 0451/75700; www.kunsthaus-luebeck.de), where tin, pewter, glass sculpting, pottery, and antique books will help you remember your visit. Breitestrasse, a pedestrian walkway throughout most of the day, is the main shopping street in town. Much of Lübeck's Altstadt is banned to cars, which makes for a pleasant afternoon of wandering.

J. G. Niederegger, Breitestrasse 89 (tel. 0451/53010; www.niederegger.de), sells that "sweetest of all sweetmeats," famous Lübeck marzipan. It's been across from the main entrance to the Rathaus since 1806. On the ground floor, you can buy treats to take away, or you can go upstairs to a pleasant cafe, where you can order dessert and the best brewed coffee in Lübeck. Ask for their pastry specialty, a nut torte resting under a huge slab of fresh marzipan. You'll pay around 30€ per kilo (about 15€ per pound) for marzipan. The shop is open 9am to 6pm daily. MasterCard and Visa are accepted.

Lubeck Nightlife

A newsletter, Piste, free at most hotels, offers news of local happenings.

Lübeck is known for its organ concerts; about two a week are presented in various churches during summer. The tourist office has complete details, or check with Musik und Kongresshallen Lübeck, Willy-Brandt-Allee 10 (tel. 0451/79040; www.muk.de), about the many concert and theater opportunities in town. The most important theater venue is Theater Combinale, Huxstrasse 115 (tel. 0451/78817; www.combinale.de; bus: 11). Its plays range from experimental to classic. Most performances are on Friday and Saturday from August to June. Tickets are 10€ to 21€ for adults and 7.50€ to 15€ for students and children 16 and under.

Finnegan, Mengstrasse 42 (tel. 0451/71110; bus: 12), won an award in 1996 and 1999 from Guinness as the best Irish pub in northern Germany. Naturally, Guinness is on tap, as well as Kilkenny, and five or six whiskeys. On Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, bands play rock and Irish music from 8pm to midnight. The pub is open Tuesday to Saturday 7pm to 4am.