At least 3 centuries old, Lucca’s most venerable dining room coasts a bit on its reputation these days, but sitting in the handsome surroundings amid copper pots and brass instruments is still a terribly pleasant experience—and usually requires a dinnertime reservation. Quietly formal service, with waiters in bow ties, and a welcoming glass of Prosecco nicely accent a meal of traditional Lucchese dishes. The menu changes regularly, but usually includes such specialties as farro alla garfagnana (spelt, or barley, soup) and coniglio in umido (rabbit stew). A house dessert is buccellato, a ring-shaped confection named for the bread that sustained Roman legionnaires.