This local favorite has a courtyard out front and comfortably informal rooms decorated with old photos, all tucked away on a quiet street near the Piazza Anfiteatro. The menu is geared to neighbors looking for a home-cooked meal: with several soups, including a hearty farro alla lucchese (beans and barley), coniglio stufato con olive taggiasche e uva (rabbit stew with olives and grapes), and a local seafood favorite, baccalà alla griglia con ceci (grilled cod with chickpeas).