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El Rastro

On Sunday mornings, all Madrid seems to descend on the city’s famous flea market that dates back centuries. El Rastro sprawls across a triangle of streets a few minutes south of Plaza Mayor. Its spine runs downhill from Plaza de Cascorro along Ribera de Curtidores, or Tanners’ Shore. El Rastro refers to the trail of blood once left by animals dragged from the slaughterhouse. These days it is jammed with locals and visitors rummaging through piles of secondhand clothes, while an old lady plays the hurdy-gurdy. For antiques, fight your way to the shops of Galerías Piquer and Nuevas Galerías, which also open during the week. You’ll find quirky and interesting bric-a-brac and vintage goods on the side streets and downhill at Plaza del Campillo del Mundo Nuevo, where vinyl records, vintage soda bottles, and antique brassware are laid out on the pavement. It’s as much a social activity as a buying opportunity, and once you’re done browsing, it’s traditional to stop for a glass of vermouth before lunch. If you can get in, Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles is the classic spot for tapas, and maybe a bowl of spicy snails (caracoles). Tip: It’s worth downloading the tourist office’s colorful map of the best spots for a bargain (esmadrid.com/en/el-rastro-map).