Of Madrid’s traditional food markets, Salamanca’s is the most beautiful and refined. None can match it for its presentation of just-misted fresh fish and shellfish, perfect fruit and vegetable specimens, carefully aged meats and cheeses, and dozens of varieties of olives. In common with many of Madrid’s revived markets, there are also plenty of high-tabled spots where you can stop for a snack and a glass of wine, including Casa Dani (www.casadani.es), where the tortilla española is legendary. Go early, or late, to avoid the rush.