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Don’t talk to a Spaniard about French or Italian fashion—Spain’s been making stylish clothes since the cave dwellers at Altamira introduced the drop-shoulder fur. Shoes don’t get quite the attention they could, but this museum does trace the evolution of Spanish dress from the 1800s forward. Spain’s modern fashion designers are, in many ways, the culmination of that arc. Look especially for the work of the visionary designer Balenciaga (1895–1972), whose influence is still felt today. While many of the textiles are fragile and must be displayed in low light, the collection also includes jewelry and other accessories.