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Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas

The philosopher José Ortega y Gasset said that to understand the Spanish you must first understand the bullfight. Many Spaniards detest the corrida, but if you want to get some understanding of it, a tour of Las Ventas is a good place to start. The huge neo-Mudéjar construction is Spain’s largest ring, with a capacity of 24,000. It opened in 1931 offering affordable entertainment to the masses, and tickets for bullfights are still available for as little as 15€. For standard tickets, expect to pay between 50€ and 70€, rising to more than 200€ for the best seats. There are bullfights most Sundays at 7pm from March through October, and one every day during the Fiesta de San Isidro in May. Self-guided tours begin at the Puerta Grande, through which victorious matadors are carried shoulder-high only if they receive the highest honors in the ring. A point-and-click audio guide takes you through the ring, the stands, and the chapel where matadors pray alone before the fight. There’s a good explanation of the technicalities and traditions surrounding the corrida, and a heavy dose of propaganda about the bull’s quality of life prior to the ring.