There’s a framed Spanish newspaper article on the wall at the Artrip headlined: “At last Lavapiés has its boutique hotel.” They’re right to be proud. This small hotel in Madrid’s up-and-coming neighborhood is a joy, and what really stands out is the warmth of the welcome and sense of local pride. The tall, slim townhouse has been smartly renovated to make the most of the limited space. The white-painted rooms have simple, clean lines, good-quality bathroom fittings, and comfortable beds. The exposed beams above your bed on the top floor are perhaps a little low for comfort, but they do add character. There’s no restaurant, but the do-it-yourself breakfast is excellent value, and coffee is free all day. As you graze, check out the work by local artists exhibited in the lobby. Because Lavapiés is at the bottom of one of Madrid’s few hills, it can feel a little removed from the main sights, but the Metro to whisk you back up the hill is just a few steps away. Or just stay put in the barrio everyone is talking about.