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This Catalonia Hoteles property is the Goldilocks of hotels near Plaza Santa Ana—not too big, not too small, just right. It occupies an early-20th-century building (some of the original carved woodwork is maintained in the top-floor suites), but the interior was completely rebuilt in 2011. The cool central courtyard comes as a great surprise in the heart of the city. With a glass roof and air-conditioning, it’s so serene that many guests hang out here to read a book and sip a drink from the discreet little bar. The modest-sized rooms have new hardwood floors, marble baths, and low-key brown and gold drapes and bedspreads. Most have large windows opening onto the courtyard or Calle Atocha.