There are still plenty of noisy, fleabag pensiones in and around Puerta de Sol. Don’t go there. This charming guest house shows how you can stay just a few yards from Kilometer Zero for as little as 50€ and get quiet comfort and cleanliness. Set in a little passage just off the Calle Mayor, with a tiny sign on the door, it offers marble-paneled rooms that aren’t large, but they are bright, air-conditioned, and spotless. The complimentary water in the fridge always tastes sweeter than the kind you pay for. The staff, too, are the opposite of the tourist trap cliché: welcoming and flexible, happy to offer advice on good places to eat and drink nearby. You are just a hop and a skip away from the San Miguel gourmet market.