Jungle-themed Amazónico, which opened in 2016 just north of the Retiro
park, has become the most fashionable table in town, beloved of celebrities and footballers. The interior, the work of
the Catalan designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán, is a lush tropical scene, with hanging greenery, a fruit-piled cocktail bar, and
a stuffed peacock. The food, by Brazilian chef Sandro Silva, is similarly exotic, a culinary world tour stopping off in
Japan, India, and the Mediterranean, as well as Silva’s native Latin America. A circular sushi bar serves up a poke of

raw red tuna or Peruvian shrimp
ceviche. Argentinian steaks and skewered sea bass smoke on an open grill. The lighting
is nightclub dark, and in the evening, bossa nova sways at the Jungle Jazz club. Cocktails arrive with dragon fruit,
sambucus flower, and papaya. This unlikely—and expensive—formula has proved so successful that a branch is due to
open in 2019 in London’s Mayfair.