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Opened in 1978, El Espejo looks like an Art Nouveau cafe-restaurant, with its dark wood paneling, glittering chandeliers, and tiles of Rossini-esque maidens with flowers entwined in their hair. For food cooked the way Auguste Escoffier codified it, the set menus offer good bargains. Among the classics are roasted whole bream with a red pepper cream and veal cutlet in mustard sauce. If you crave something more definitively Spanish, oxtail braised in red wine (rabo de toro) is dark and unctuous. Desserts are plain; have a sweet sherry instead.