Lucio Blázquez started working here at age 12 and eventually came to own the place. Now a venerable figure in the Madrid restaurant trade, he has maintained Casa Lucio as the model ancient Madrileño dining room. His meat-heavy menu has barely changed over the years, from the churrasco of grilled veal to the capon roasted until the meat falls off the bone. The bar has a classic Spanish look, with hams hanging from rough-hewn beams. Lucio’s chief nod to more modern sensibilities is the “panache” of fresh vegetables cooked al dente. The big plate includes Swiss chard, broccoli, green beans, carrots (and just because it is Spain) lots and lots of artichoke hearts. Old-timers take care of the annoying crunch by asking to have their panache further sautéed with olive oil and garlic.