You have to push your way through a packed tapas bar to get to the stairs down to El Ñeru’s cavernous basement dining rooms. The cuisine at “The Nest” is Asturian, a regional favorite with madrileños, and its fabada Asturiana—large white beans stewed with ham and sausage—has been named the best in Spain. The menu also has plenty of fish and seafood, including the classic hake braised in cider (merluza a la sidra), or you can have your beans with clams. For the more adventurous, there is tripe (callos), cooked either in the Asturian or Madrid style. Cider is, of course, the accompaniment of choice—poured at shoulder height—and the bread comes with an interesting spread of butter blended with Cabrales blue cheese. The menú del dia is a hearty bargain.