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Subtitled “La Huerta de Tudela” after the restaurant’s farm in the Ebro valley, this venture from Tudela native son Ricardo Gil is a Madrid rarity: a restaurant where vegetables get the respect usually reserved for caviar and prime cuts of meat. Gil has a passion for veggies, and his tasting menu is a nine-course tour de force where meat serves as a seasoning. Typical dishes might be a roll of Swiss chard stuffed with mushrooms and ham served with a little hollandaise, or a potato confit strudel seasoned with ham hock. More than half the menu consists of vegetables, and even fish and meat plates come with roasted vegetables. As Gil writes on the menu, “In our house, the vegetable is the queen.”