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Horcher

You’ll pay a small fortune to dine at this beacon of old-fashioned grace next to the Retiro gardens, but you’ll never forget the experience. The restaurant launched more than a century ago in Berlin and relocated to Madrid in 1943 after a run-in with Joseph Goebbels.Today, it is operated by the fourth generation of the same family, led by Elisabeth Horcher. The elegant dining room, Viennese-style dishes, and silver service are from another era. Start with smoked eel and horseradish or poached egg and Kartoffelpuffer (potato cakes) with shaved truffle, before moving on to game dishes like venison stroganoff or salt crusted pigeon, or classic steak tartare. For dessert, there are crêpes flamed in brandy at your table, or the house special Baumkuchen, a spectacular stacked cake costing 250€. Men must wear a jacket; women get a cushion to rest their feet.