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You’ll pay handsomely to dine at this avatar of old-fashioned grace and haute cuisine, but you’ll never forget the experience. The restaurant launched more than a century ago in Berlin and the proprietors relocated to “neutral” Spain in 1943. The restaurant is a period piece; not only are the dishes from another era, so is the impeccable and knowledgeable service. Start with specialties like smoked eel with radish sauce or an individual cheese soufflé before moving on to typical formal dishes like roast pigeon in Perigord truffle sauce, or a simple brochette of red prawns and scallops. Wild boar, duck, and venison abound on the fall menu.