You’ll pay a small fortune to dine at this beacon of old-fashioned grace next to the Retiro gardens, but you’ll never forget the experience. The restaurant launched more than a century ago in Berlin and relocated to Madrid in 1943 after a run-in with Joseph Goebbels. The current proprietor is the great grandson of the restaurant’s founder, Gustav Horcher. The elegant dining room is a period piece; the Viennese-style dishes are from another era, and so is the impeccable service. Start with smoked eel with horseradish or poached egg and Kartoffelpuffer (potato cakes) with shaved truffle, before moving on to game dishes such as venison stroganoff and partridge cooked with grapes, or the classic steak tartare. For dessert, there are crepes flamed in brandy at your table, or the extraordinary stacked Baumkuchen (cake tree). Men must wear a jacket; women get a cushion to rest their feet.