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It’s hard to tell which is leafier—the dining room walls covered with botanical prints or the back garden terrace where tables sit among potted trees and shrubs. Either is a good place to enjoy contemporary Spanish cooking that sometimes roams the globe for ingredients. The delicious plate of paella-style rice with cilantro and crisply fried squid is stained black with huitalacoche (corn smut) to make a lighter and more original version of a Catalan arròs negre, or black rice. Iroco’s slow-roasted, boneless kid glazed with honey and served with a turnip purée makes goat a revelation. Garden service carries a 10% surcharge.