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This superb Basque asador may be the most elegant restaurant along Cava Baja. Pretty much everything you’ll order here will arrive with grill marks, so the house keeps the menu rather simple. Meat eaters can order a sirloin steak or a thick chop, fish eaters get a choice of hake or monkfish. There are two principal side dishes: grilled piquillo peppers, which taste both smoky and sweet, and fat stalks of asparagus. The ambiance is more fine steakhouse than tavern. Large plate glass windows make the street-level dining room a showcase. Many diners prefer the lower dining room with its exposed brick walls and the radiant heat of the wood grill. The wine list is strong on Rioja reds, and even stronger on wines of Navarre.