There are lots of good places to eat and graze along busy Cava Baja. This superb Basque asador is perhaps the most elegant. Pretty much everything you’ll order here will arrive with char-grilled black stripes, and the menu is short and simple. Meat eaters have the choice of chuletón (T-bone steak) or entrecôtte (ribeye), fish eaters can order merluza (hake) or rape (monkfish). The starters and side dishes are similarly straightforward: Almost everyone goes for the red piquillo peppers, which are smoky and sweet, and, when in season, the fleshy mushrooms (hongos). Many diners prefer the lower dining room with its exposed brick walls and the warmth of the wood grill. The staff do a good job of advising on the size and doneness of your steak (the chuletón is huge), and on the excellent list of reds from Rioja and Navarre. For dessert, try the typically Basque Tejas y cigarrillos de Tolosa—buttery brandy snaps.