This is possibly the most Madrileño restaurant in the whole city and it is one of the last that makes an old-fashioned cocido of long-boiled mixed cuts of meat and sausages. The stew is usually served in three stages—as meat, as vegetables, and as broth. The big pots of cocido simmer away over charcoal, and entire families come on Sunday afternoon to make a ceremony of the heavy stew. The menu has changed little since 1870, although (to the dismay of purists) the cooks no longer emphasize organ meats or the more gelatinous cuts in the cocido.
- Frommer's Staff