La Bola Taberna
Some complain about offhand service, others that it’s overpriced, but if you want to try the traditional cocido madrileño in an authentic setting, it’s hard to do better than La Bola, established in 1870. Once past the bright red corner façade, it’s best to keep things simple. Almost everyone orders cocido, the mighty, slow-cooked stew of chickpeas, veal shank, ham bone, chicken, and chorizo that arrives in an earthenware jug. First, the waiter will pour the broth onto a bowl of vermicelli pasta—that’s your soup starter. Once you’re finished, he’ll empty the rest of the stew onto your bowl and add a generous dollop of boiled cabbage. This was once the lunch-hour staple of Madrid’s blue-collar workers, and cost little more than a peseta. Today’s cocido will set you back 24.50€, but you may not need to eat again all day. If you can manage pudding, the buñuelo de manzana (apple fritter with ice cream) is the way to go.
Some complain about offhand service, others that it’s overpriced, but if you want to try the traditional cocido madrileño in an authentic setting, it’s hard to do better than La Bola, established in 1870. Once past the bright red corner façade, it’s best to keep things simple. Almost everyone orders cocido, the mighty, slow-cooked stew of chickpeas, veal shank, ham bone, chicken, and chorizo that arrives in an earthenware jug. First, the waiter will pour the broth onto a bowl of vermicelli pasta—that’s your soup starter. Once you’re finished, he’ll empty the rest of the stew onto your bowl and add a generous dollop of boiled cabbage. This was once the lunch-hour staple of Madrid’s blue-collar workers, and cost little more than a peseta. Today’s cocido will set you back 24.50€, but you may not need to eat again all day. If you can manage pudding, the buñuelo de manzana (apple fritter with ice cream) is the way to go.
Details
Bookstore
Available as paperback
and as e-book.
