Super chef Paco Roncero runs this bastion of contemporary cuisine with Ferran Adrià, the elBulli master of innovation, as an advisor. The restaurant fills the top floor of the Baroque gentleman’s club called the Casino, and if that makes you think of waiters in white tuxedo jackets and other luxe touches of a dining room for Madrid’s elite, you’re on the right track. Yet Roncero’s cooking is smart, fresh, seasonal, and devoid of gimmicks. Techniques are au courant—he poaches skate in olive oil, for example, and serves it with a pistou of parsley, garlic, and almonds. It’s a variant of a dish the Spanish aristocracy brought back from Italy. He turns the rustic Asturian fabada (pork and beans) into an elegant veloute with a bowl of al dente green favas drizzled with Picual olive oil.