Super chef Paco Roncero runs this bastion of contemporary cuisine, having trained with Ferran Adrià, the Spanish master of innovation. The restaurant fills the top floor of the Baroque Casino de Madrid, an elite social club built in 1910. Yet the restaurant is bright and unstuffy, and Roncero’s cooking is smart, fresh, and highly experimental. There is an à la carte menu, but it is much better to put yourself in the chef’s hands for one of three tasting menus, one of which is available at lunchtime only. The most elaborate and expensive is entitled “Welcome to my world,” an extraordinary world of flavor and innovation comprising some 16 tiny courses. The olive oil tasting at the beginning—perfected in Roncero’s space-age lab—is an indication of what lies ahead: bending and changing the textures, flavor, and appearance of ingredients at a molecular level. The paired wines are outstanding too. Rather out of character, men must wear a jacket and children under 12 are not welcome to this world.