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Too bad Hemingway didn’t live long enough to eat at Casa Salvador. The place is an instant immersion in Andalucían decor and the cult of the bullfight. The owner is an aficionado of the corrida and has photos of bulls, bullfighters, and bullfights everywhere. The food is as simple and unaffected as the atmosphere is overwhelming. House specialties include a delicious soupy casserole of white beans and ham. If the bull photos don’t bother you, opt for a grilled veal chop or a gristly but flavorful sirloin steak.