Too bad Hemingway isn’t around to eat at Casa Salvador. The place is a total immersion in Andalucían decor and the cult of the bullfight, with the great matadors staring mournfully from photos and paintings covering the walls. The food is as simple and unaffected as the atmosphere is overwhelming. House specialties include a delicious soupy casserole of white beans and ham. If the bullfight pictures don’t put you off, opt for oxtail (rabo de toro) or a gristly but flavorful sirloin steak.