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Asturian Paco Ron walked away from a Michelin star in the little fishing village of Viavélez to make his assault on the big city. This restaurant, named for the town he left behind, may not have attracted the French star-makers, but it has certainly drawn Madrid gourmets who have always been partial to the cold-water fish cuisine of the country’s northern Atlantic coast. Ron wisely splits the establishment between a casual taberna and a more formal restaurant. The tavern has a short menu of “canapes” (tapas, really) like bonito tuna with sweet red pepper and some simple dishes like steamed mussels, steamed cockles, and pieces of fried cod. The restaurant dishes have a bit more finesse and include treats like squid meatballs, grilled hake with al dente green beans and tomato salad, and, for dessert, dark chocolate cake with dried cherries.