Heir to the legendary 19th-century cafe-theater by the same name, El Chinitas cultivates a timeless look of straight-backed wooden chairs, wood-paneled walls, and white linen tablecloths. The menu hails from the same era, representing the best of coastal seafood and the meat traditions of central Spain. Fish is mostly fried, while meats are either braised or grilled. In keeping with tradition, other than the obligatory green salad, green beans, artichokes, and asparagus, vegetables are an afterthought. It is a great spot to enjoy rabo de toro (braised oxtail), steamed prawns, or scrambled egg dishes. The menu of tapas is a bargain of seven varied tapas and dessert.
- Frommer's Staff