Planning a trip to Malaysia

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

While airlines and most luxury hotels have facilities for guests in wheelchairs, almost every attraction, shopping mall, restaurant, and mode of public transportation provides no accessibility. In urban centers, sidewalks are nonexistent, buckled, or cluttered. At press time, there were no inbound tour operators specializing in tours for travelers with disabilities. Major tour operators can provide taxi services charged by the hour for shuttling around to attractions, but there may be an extra charge.

Tips for Women Travelers

As a woman who has traveled solo to all corners of Malaysia, I can honestly say I have never once felt threatened. However, my travel philosophy is "When in Rome . . . ." In KL I feel comfortable wearing sleeveless tops, and at beach resorts I'll wear singlets and shorts, but in rural places I dress similar to Malay women, in long wrap skirts or pants and shirts that cover the tops of my arms. I always carry a scarf in my bag in case etiquette requires I cover my head (which is usually only in mosques). In rural areas, I avoid physical contact with men, including shaking hands.

Getting There

By Plane

Malaysia has five international airports -- at Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Langkawi, Kota Kinabalu, and Kuching, although international flights come into some domestic airports -- and 15 domestic airports, including Kota Bharu, Kuantan, and Kuala Terengganu. Specific airport information is listed for each city.

A passenger service charge, or airport departure tax, is incorporated in all ticket prices and depends upon the airport from which you depart: RM6 to RM20 for domestic flights and RM25 to RM51 for international flights.

Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) flies to six continents. I have found Malaysia Airlines service to be of a very good standard. From within Malaysia, you can contact them at tel. 1300/883-000.

AirAsia (www.airasia.com; in KL tel. 03/2171-9333) is a low-cost carrier that flies long-haul flights to KL from Australia and the U.K., plus shorter flights from countries throughout the region, some with direct flights to Penang, Kota Kinabalu, or Kuching. Another regional low-cost carrier to consider is Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com.sg; in KL tel. 03/7849-4608, in Singapore tel. 65/680-TIGER [6808-4437]), which connects Singapore to KL, Penang, and Sararwak.

By Train

From Singapore -- In mid-2010, Singapore and Malaysia announced that the Singapore railway station for Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM) rail services to Malaysia will move to the Woodlands rail checkpoint, in the north of Singapore, commencing July 1, 2011. At press time, there were no details available, except that a bus connection will be offered from the nearest MRT station to the Woodlands station. KTM operates trains that connect cities along the west coast of Malaysia with Singapore to the south and Thailand to the north. Trains to Kuala Lumpur depart daily, for fares from S$34 to S$68. The trip takes around 7 hours on an ekspres train (avoid the 10pm mail train if you want to reach there before your next birthday). Kuala Lumpur's KL Sentral railway station (tel. 03/2267-1200) is a 10-minute taxi ride from the center of town and is connected to the Putra LRT, KL Monorail city public transportation trains, and the Express Rail Link (ERL) to Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA).

From Thailand -- KTM's international service departs from the Hua Lamphong Railway Station (tel. 662/220-4444) in Bangkok, in partnership with the State Railway of Thailand, with operations to Hua Hin, Surat Thani, Nakhon Si Thammarat, and Hat Yai in Thailand's southern peninsula. The final stop in Malaysia is at Butterworth, near Penang, so passage to KL will require you to catch a connecting train onward. The daily service departs at 2:45pm and takes approximately 20 hours from Bangkok to Butterworth. There is no first- or third-class service on this train, only air-conditioned second class; an upper berth goes for about US$37, and lower is US$40. The latter is roomier

For a romantic journey from Thailand, the Eastern & Orient Express (E&O; www.orient-express.com) operates a route between Chiang Mai and Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, or Singapore. Traveling in the luxurious style for which the Orient Express is renowned, you'll finish the journey in about 42 hours. A double-occupancy Pullman cabin is priced at S$3,500 per person, with State and Presidential Suites also available. Fares include meals on the train plus tours along the way. Overseas reservations for the E&O Express can be made through travel agents or by booking online at www.orient-express.com. From Singapore, Malaysia, and Thailand, contact the E&O office in Singapore at tel. 65/6395-0678.

By Bus

From Singapore, there are many bus routes to Malaysia. If you want to travel on land, I personally prefer the bus over the train from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur. Executive coaches operated by Aeroline (in Singapore tel. 65/6258-8800) have huge seats that recline, serve a box lunch on board, and show movies. Seven buses depart daily from HarbourFront Centre at 1 Maritime Sq. for the 5-hour trip (adults S$49 one-way, S$98 round-trip; children S$38 one-way, S$76 round-trip).

Buses to Johor Bahru can be picked up at the Ban Sen terminal at the corner of Queen and Arab streets (tel. 65/6292-8149; S$2.40 one-way). Grassland Express (5001 Beach Rd., Golden Mile Complex; tel. 65/6293-1166) has daily morning buses to Melaka for S$22 one-way on weekdays and S$30 one-way on weekends.

From Thailand, you can find buses from Bangkok or Hat Yai (in the southern part of the country) heading for Malaysia. I don't recommend the bus trip from Bangkok, which is very far -- take the train. From Hat Yai, many buses leave regularly to northern Malaysian destinations, particularly Butterworth (Penang). Also be warned, the U.S. Department of State does not recommend U.S. citizens travel in certain parts of southern Thailand due to terrorist violence near Pattani and Narathiwat.

By Taxi (from Singapore)

From the Johor-Singapore bus terminal at Queen and Arab streets, the Singapore Johor Taxi Operators Association (tel. 65/6296-7054) can drive you to Johor Bahru for S$40.

By Car

Major international car-rental agencies operating in Singapore will rent cars that you can take over the causeway to Malaysia, but be prepared to pay a small fortune. They're much cheaper if you rent within the country. At Kuala Lumpur International Airport, find Avis at Counter B-16 at the arrival hall in the main terminal (tel. 03/8776-4540). There's another branch at the international airport in Penang (04/643-9633), or make a booking through www.avis.com.

Regions in Brief

Malaysia's territory covers peninsular Malaysia -- bordering Thailand in the north and across a strait from Singapore in the south -- and two states on the island of Borneo, Sabah and Sarawak, approximately 240km (149 miles) east across the South China Sea. All of its 13 states and 3 federal territories total 329,749 sq. km (128,602 sq. miles) of land.

Peninsular Malaysia makes up about 132,149 sq. km (51,538 sq. miles) and contains 11 of Malaysia's 13 states: Kedah, Perlis, Penang, and Perak are in the northwest; Kelantan and Terengganu are in the northeast; Selangor, Negeri Sembilan, and Melaka are about midway down the peninsula on the western side; Pahang, along the east coast, sprawls inward to cover most of the central area (which is mostly forest preserve); and Johor covers the entire southern tip from east to west, with two vehicular causeways linking it to Singapore, just over the Straits of Johor. Surrounded by the Straits of Malacca to the west and the South China Sea to the east, the peninsula is edged by coastal plains and mangrove swamps. The interior of the peninsula is mainly forested, with a number of mountain ranges that run from north to south.

The Western Peninsula

The states of Perlis, Kedah, Penang, Perak, Selangor, Negeri Sembilan, Melaka, and Johor make up the peninsula's west coast, from north to south. Early traders were attracted to trading posts in Melaka and Penang, where today you'll still find colonial influences. To this day, the cities and towns along the west coast are the nation's most developed. The corridor between Melaka, Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Langkawi sees the highest number of international visitors each year

Kuala Lumpur & Surrounds

The most developed part of the country is the federal territory of Kuala Lumpur, the nation's capital, and the state of Selangor, which surrounds it. Selangor is home to KL's residential suburbs, as well as the country's biggest port, Port Klang. Kuala Lumpur is the commercial base of Malaysia, while Putrajaya, south of KL, is Malaysia's base for government operations. Selangor is Malaysia's most populated state, with about a million and a half residents, with Kuala Lumpur following close behind.

The Eastern Peninsula

The east coast is made up of the states of Kelantan, Terengganu, Pahang, and Johor, listed from north to south. The east coast has seen less industrialization than the west coast, which makes the local culture more laid back and traditional in culture. Kelantan and Terengganu, along with the northwest states of Perlis and Kedah, are the most conservative states in Malaysia. Pahang, the Peninsula's largest state, counts most of the peninsula's mountainous interior, including Taman Negara, the most significant national forest on the peninsula, within its borders.

Malaysian Borneo

Just over 20 percent of Malaysia's population lives in two states on the island of Borneo: Sabah and Sarawak. Borneo is the third-largest island in the world -- Malaysia occupies about a quarter of its total land mass of 743,330 sq. km (287,000 sq. miles). The rest of Borneo is divided between Indonesia and the tiny oil-rich sultanate of Brunei. Almost half of Sarawak's population is non-Malay indigenous people, many of whom still live in the state's low-lying plains, along forested river systems, and in the state's northeastern plateaus. Sabah, occupying the north of Borneo, is covered mostly in mountainous forest, with Mt. Kinabalu, Southeast Asia's third-highest peak, standing at 4,095m (13,436 ft.). Sixty percent of Sabahans belong to non-Malay indigenous groups.

Health & Safety

Malaysia does not require visitors to obtain specific vaccinations to enter, with the exception of travelers arriving from areas where yellow fever is present, mainly Africa and South America. Sun exposure and insect bites will be your main worry in Malaysia, whether you are in a city, jungle trekking, or lying on a beach. Drink plenty of fluids and avoid the outdoors during the middle of the day, if possible, and wear sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30. Day or night, mosquito repellent is a must, and for certain heavily forested areas, I've found only products containing DEET will work. In general, the quality of healthcare in Malaysia is very good, with most doctors educated overseas and many hospitals awarded international accreditation. Over-the-counter medications are easy to find at well-stocked pharmacies in major towns. Note that some drugs have different names; for example, Tylenol (acetaminophen) is sold under the brand name Panadol (paracetamol) in Malaysia.

• Dietary Red Flags -- The tap water in KL is supposedly potable, but I don't recommend drinking it -- in fact, I don't recommend drinking tap water anywhere in Malaysia. Bottled water is inexpensive enough and readily available at convenience stores and food stalls. Food prepared in hawker centers is generally safe -- I have yet to experience trouble, and I'll eat almost anywhere. If you buy fresh fruit, wash it well with bottled water, and carefully peel the skin if you are really concerned. Vegetarians will find variety in southern Indian vegetarian curries, known locally as "banana leaf," and a smattering of Chinese Buddhist vegetarian restaurants.
• Tropical Illnesses -- Malaria has not been a continual threat in most parts of Malaysia, even Malaysian Borneo. Dengue fever, on the other hand, which is also carried by mosquitoes, remains a constant threat in most areas, especially rural parts. Dengue, if left untreated, may cause fatal internal hemorrhaging, so if you come down with a sudden fever or skin rash, consult a physician immediately. There are no prophylactic treatments for dengue; the best protection is to wear plenty of insect repellent -- the aedes mosquito that carries dengue bites during the day, as opposed to malaria-carrying varieties that bite at dusk. Choose a product that contains DEET or is specifically formulated to be effective in the tropics.

Insurance

Before you travel, check with your airline, credit card issuers, and any medical plan you have in your home country to find out what kind of coverage you have for things like flight delays, loss of luggage, theft, accident, or illness while traveling. Additional travel insurance can be purchased on an annual basis or per trip through your insurance company. If you're planning adventure and other sports travel, make sure your travel insurance covers such activities. Medical evacuation is also recommended if you plan to visit nature reserves or islands. For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit www.frommers.com/planning/.

Safety

Malaysia has an unfortunate problem with thievery, though the crime rate in the country has been decreasing. "Snatch thieves" have been known to ride on motorcycles through heavily populated areas in KL, Johor Bahru, and other cities, snatching handbags from women's shoulders. When you're out, don't wear your handbag on your side that's facing the street -- or better yet, don't carry a handbag.

The first thing I do when I check into a hotel is put my passport, international tickets, extra cash, and traveler's checks, plus any credit or ATM card I do not have immediate plans to use, straight into the safe, either in my room or behind the hotel's front desk.

Be careful when traveling on overnight trains and buses, where there are opportunities for theft. Keep your valuables close to you as you sleep.

Tips on Accommodations

Major hotel chains represented in Malaysia include Four Seasons, Hilton, Hyatt, Holiday Inn, Le Meridien, Mandarin Oriental, Marriott, Melia, Mercure, Renaissance, Ritz Carlton, Shangri-La, Sheraton, and Westin. KL has the highest concentration of international business hotels, but a few operate luxurious resorts in other parts of the country as well, most notably on Penang and Langkawi.

Peak months of the year for hotels in western peninsular Malaysia are December through February and July through September. For the east coast, the busy times are July through September. You will need to make reservations well in advance to secure your room during these months.

Taxes & Service Charges -- All nonbudget hotels levy a 10% service charge and 5% government tax. As such, there is no need to tip. But bellhops could be tipped at least RM2 per bag; I give RM5 per bag in very expensive hotels and resorts.

Homestays

There are now over 100 operators offering homestays in virtually every Malaysian state, including Sabah and Sarawak. Through a homestay experience, travelers immerse themselves in local culture in meaningful ways, exchanging stories with local people and exploring their unique lifestyles in ways that a typical tour or holiday would never afford. In a homestay, a traveler will sleep with a local family in a village home, interact with the community to prepare and share local food, and engage in traditional cultural activities, including farming or fishing. The Sabah Tourism Board promotes homestays through its website, www.sabahtourism.com, listing reputable homestays across the state. Sarawak's Ministry of Urban Development & Tourism helps to organize homestays with indigenous communities, promoting packages on their website at www.right.sarawak.gov.my/Homestay.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Seniors have few discounts in Malaysia, except at some attractions, where they might pay a bit less -- but it's usually such a small discount that it's hardly worth pulling out your passport. However, Malaysia offers great incentives to lure potential retirees to the country under a program called Malaysia My Second Home; check out www.mm2h.com for incentives on purchasing a house, car, and education, as well as details on tax breaks (if you're interested).

When to Go

There are two peak seasons in Malaysia. One peak tourist season falls roughly from the beginning of December to the end of January, covering the major Northern Hemisphere winter holidays -- Christmas, New Year's Day, and Chinese New Year. Hari Raya Puasa, celebrating the end of Ramadan, shifts dates from year to year. If you plan to travel to Malaysia around August, I highly recommend calling Tourism Malaysia to find out exactly when this holiday will fall.

The second peak season falls in the months of June, July, and August, and can last into mid-September. During this period, hotels are booked with families from the Middle East, as this is school holiday season for many of the region's countries. After September it's quiet again until December. Both seasons experience approximately equal tourist traffic, but in summer months, that traffic may ebb and flow.

Singapore's school holidays occur from mid-May through to the end of June, and again during November and December, when families are likely to flock to Malaysia's seaside resorts, particularly the budget and midpriced properties. Malaysians in general are relaxed about children when on holidays. If you're looking for an intimate couples escape, try to avoid family resorts during this time. Malaysia's schoolchildren are cut loose for about 1 to 2 weeks in March, May, and August, with a longer break from mid-November through December.

Weather

Climate considerations will play a role in your plans. If you want to visit any of the east-coast resort areas, the low season is between November and March, when the monsoon tides make the water too choppy for watersports and beach activities. During this time, many island resorts may close. On the west coast, the rainy season is from April through May, and again from October through November.

The temperature is basically static year-round. Daily averages range from 73°F to 90°F (22°C-32°C). Temperatures in the hill resorts get a little cooler, averaging 67°F (21°C) during the day, 50°F (10°C) at night. In terms of rainfall, the wettest months are March and April, as well as October through December, with monthly average rainfall in the range of 10 inches. The driest months are June and July, with only about 5 inches rainfall each.

An additional consideration is haze caused by unfortunate slash-and-burn agricultural practices on the Indonesian island of Sumatra, with winds carrying smoke across the Straits of Malacca to the peninsula. By and large, haze will affect only blue skies and visibility, but it has reached dangerous levels, such as in 2005, when they soared to "state of emergency" levels with regard to human health. The burning period is roughly from August through October, but it's impossible to predict when and if haze will affect your holiday.

Holidays

During Malaysia's official public holidays, expect government offices to be closed, as well as some shops and restaurants, depending on the ethnicity of the shop owner or restaurant owner. During Hari Raya Puasa and Chinese New Year, you can expect many shop and restaurant closings. However, look out for special sales and celebrations. Also count on public parks, shopping malls, and beaches to be more crowded during public holidays, as locals will be taking advantage of their time off.

Official public holidays fall as follows: New Year's Day (Jan 2, 2012, observed), Chinese New Year (Jan 23-24, 2012), Prophet Muhammad's Birthday (Feb 15), Labor Day (May 1), Wesak Day (May 7, 2012, observed), King's Birthday (Jun 4), Hari Raya Puasa (also called Eid al-Fitr; Aug 30-31 and Sept 1, 2011; Aug 20-22, 2012); National Day (Aug 31), Deepavali (Oct 26, 2011; Nov 13, 2012), Hari Raya Haji (also called Eid al-Adha; Nov 7-8, 2011; Oct 26-27, 2012), and Christmas (Dec 25). Note: Please confirm all 2012 dates listed above before you plan your trip; some holidays vary, as they are dependent on the phases of the moon. In addition, each state has a public holiday to celebrate the birthday of the state sultan.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January/February

International Surfing Competition (Cherating). International champions compete annually as the monsoon brings favorable surf to Malaysia's east coast. Early January.

Royal Langkawi International Regatta (Langkawi). One of Asia's most regarded annual yachting events draws crews from around the region and beyond. www.langkawiregatta.com. Mid-January.

Thaipusam (Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur). This spectacular Hindu celebration is held at Batu Caves outside of Kuala Lumpur, where devotes carry steel racks attached to their bodies up 272 steps to a sacred temple in the caves. Late January/early February.

Chinese New Year (nationwide). Also called the Lunar New Year, this festival is celebrated with parades, lion dances, and street bazaars in cities with larger Chinese populations, such as Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown. Late January/February.

April

Petronas Malaysia F1 Grand Prix (Sepang, Selangor). Malaysia hosts one of the Asian circuits on a designated Formula One course not far from Kuala Lumpur. www.malaysiangp.com.my. Early April.

May

Miri International Jazz Festival (Miri, Sarawak). Gaining in popularity each year, the festival welcomes up to 7,000 to watch performances by regional and international acclaimed jazz musicians. www.mirijazzfestival.com. Mid-May.

June

Melaka River Festival (Melaka). The town organizes a market and carnival attractions alongside the river. Late June.

July

Malaysia Mega Sale (nationwide). Virtually every shop in the country offers discounts for shoppers during this month-long spending spree.

Rainforest World Music Festival (Sarawak). Evening performances are complemented by daily talks, workshops, and jam sessions at this highly regarded international event highlighting music from around the world. www.rainforestmusic-borneo.com. Early July.

August

Bazaar Ramadan (nationwide). Night markets, called pasar malam, are set up around the country selling local "break fast" treats (which are permitted after sundown) during the Muslim month of fasting.

Hari Raya Adil Fitri (nationwide). The end of the Ramadan fasting month is celebrated with feasts and family gathering across the country. National Day (nationwide). Kuala Lumpur has the best parade and fireworks as the nation celebrates independence. August 31.

October

Hari Raya Aidiladha (nationwide). On this day, also known as Hari Raya Haji, many Muslims travel to Mecca for pilgrimage. In Malaysia, it is a day of prayers and ritual cattle sacrifices. October/Early November.

November

Malaysia Year-End Sale (nationwide).This is another month-long mega sale to lure shoppers with big discounts.

Monsoon Cup (Kuala Terengganu). Held each year in the town known for its traditional boatbuilders, this regatta is commonly known as the Formula 1 of Sailing. www.monsooncup.com.my. Late November/early December.

December

Fabulous Food 1Malaysia (nationwide). A month-long celebration of Malaysia's cuisine, sampled in festival markets throughout the country. www.fabfood1malaysia.com.

Staying Connected

Telephones

To place a call from your home country to Malaysia: Dial the international access code (011 in the U.S. and Canada; 0011 in Australia; or 00 in the U.K., Ireland, and New Zealand), plus the country code (60), plus the Malaysia area code (Cameron Highlands 5, Desaru 7, Genting Highlands 9, Johor Bahru 7, Kuala Lumpur 3, Kuala Terengganu 9, Kota Bharu 9, Kota Kinabalu 88, Kuantan 9, Kuching 82, Langkawi 4, Melaka 6, Mersing 7, Penang 4, Tioman 9), followed by the six-, seven-, or eight-digit phone number (for example, from the U.S. to Kuala Lumpur, you'd dial 011-60-3/0000-0000).

The nation's fixed telephone provider, Telekom Malaysia, also provides International Direct Dialing (IDD) services from most hotels.

To place a direct international call from Malaysia: Dial the international access code (00), plus the country code of the place you are dialing (U.S. and Canada 1, Australia 61, Republic of Ireland 353, New Zealand 64, U.K. 44), plus the area/city code and the residential number.

To reach the international operator: Dial tel. 108.

Prepaid international calling cards are available from a number of companies and can be purchased at most convenience stores. Be warned that not all phones accept all cards -- most likely card-operated phones are located next to the shops that sell corresponding cards.

With widespread mobile phone usage, coin-operated phones are becoming a scarcity. If you find one, local calls are charged at 10 sen for 3 minutes.

Mobile Phones

Cellular telephone services are provided by Celcom, DiGi, Maxis, and Telekom Cellular. Celcom (tel. 1300/111-000; www.celcom.com.my) sells a Malaysia prepaid SIM card that can be used with an international cellular phone that assigns a local telephone number, allows free incoming calls, and provides a local rate for local calls. It can be obtained before you travel via Telestial (tel. 800/707-0031 in the U.S., 800/795-252 in Australia; www.telestial.com), with courier delivery. Telestial also rents cellphones.

In KL, visit Celcom at Levels 1 & 2, Podium Block Menara Naluri, 161B Jalan Ampang (not far from the Malaysia Tourism Centre), or at KL International Airport in the International Arrival Hall, Level 3, in the Main Terminal Building. Stored-value cards can be topped up at convenience stores, gas stations, and Celcom outlets throughout the country.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Most hotels in Malaysia offer Internet connectivity; in hotels, most often you'll find broadband Internet in-room and Wi-Fi (wireless Internet) access in the public areas of the hotel, but recently some hotels have added Wi-Fi access in-room. Airports and coffee shops (like Starbucks) often have Wi-Fi hotspots as well. In general, Internet is available to most of the nation, and I have found Internet cafes in the most surprising remote places. However, with more people carrying laptops and smartphones, Internet cafes are going out of style, but they can still be found in areas frequented by travelers. Internet cafes tend to open, close, or move frequently, so wherever you are, your best bet is to ask your concierge or the local tourism information office for the best places close by. Usage costs only about RM5 to RM10 per hour.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Malaysia's country code is 60. Area codes for destinations covered in this book are as follows: 03 for Kuala Lumpur; 06 for Melaka; 07 for Johor Bahru; 04 for Penang and Langkawi; 09 for Tioman, Kuantan, Cherating, Kuala Terengganu, and Kota Bharu; 082 for Sarawak; and 088 for Sabah.

Business Hours -- Banks are open from 9:30am to 3pm Monday through Friday. Government offices are open from 8am to 12:45pm and 2 to 4:15pm Monday through Friday. Smaller shops like provision stores may open as early as 6 or 6:30am and close as late as 9pm, especially those near the wet markets. Many such stores are closed on Saturday evenings and Sunday afternoons and are busiest before lunch. Other shops are open 9:30am to 7pm. Department stores and shops in malls tend to open later, about 10:30 or 11am until 8:30 or 9pm throughout the week. Note that in the states of Kelantan, Terengganu, and Kedah, the working week runs from Saturday to Wednesday, with weekends on Thursday and Friday.

Doctors -- All hotels and resorts have qualified physicians on call who speak English. These doctors will come directly to your room for treatment. If your condition is serious, they can help you check into a local hospital.

Drinking Laws -- Liquor is sold in pubs and supermarkets in all big cities and in provision stores. If you're going to a smaller island, your resort may have limited alcohol selections, so you may wish to bring your own. In Terengganu and Kelantan, liquor is strictly limited to a handful of Chinese restaurants. Pubs and other nightspots should officially close by 1am nationwide, but there are places in KL that stay open later. The legal age for alcohol purchase and consumption is 18, but foreigners are rarely checked.

Drug Laws -- As in Singapore, the death sentence is mandatory for drug trafficking (defined as being in possession of more than 15g of heroin or morphine, 200g of marijuana or hashish, or 40g of cocaine). For lesser quantities, you'll be thrown in jail for a very long time and flogged with a cane.

Electricity -- The voltage used in Malaysia is 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles). Three-point square plugs are used, so buy an adapter if you plan to bring any appliances, although most larger hotels can provide adapters upon request.

Embassies & Consulates -- Most embassies are located in Kuala Lumpur. Contacts for major embassies in Malaysia are as follows: Australian High Commission, 6 Jalan Yap Kwan Seng, Kuala Lumpur (tel. 03/2146-5555; www.australia.org.my); British High Commission, 185 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur (tel. 03/2170-2200; www.ukinmalaysia.fco.gov.uk); Canadian High Commission, 17th Floor, Menara Tan & Tan, 207 Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur (tel. 03/2718-3333; www.canadainternational.gc.ca); New Zealand High Commission, Level 21, Menara IMC, 8 Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur (tel. 03/2078-2533; www.nzembassy.com/malaysia); and the United States Embassy, 376 Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur (tel. 03/2168-5000; www.malaysia.usembassy.gov).

Emergencies -- Call tel. 999 for all emergencies.

Hospitals -- In the event of an accident or emergency, the best facility in Kuala Lumpur is Hospital Kuala Lumpur on Jalan Pahang (tel. 03/2615-5555).

Language -- The national language is Malay, or Bahasa Malaysia, although English is widely spoken. Chinese dialects and Tamil are also spoken.

Legal Aid -- If you encounter legal trouble in Malaysia, you should notify your home embassy immediately. They will not be able to change local laws to help you, post bail on your behalf, or offer legal advice, but they can assist you in contacting family and suggesting names of local legal representatives. Note that drug trafficking carries a mandatory death penalty and that conviction for certain other violent crimes can result in corporal punishment. Some aspects of Shariah (Islamic) law have been incorporated into the law books of some states.

Mail -- Post office locations in each city covered are provided in each section. Overseas airmail postage rates are as follows: RM.50 for postcards and from RM1.40 for a 100g letter.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Local English-language papers include the New Straits Times, The Star, The Sun, and The Edge, and are sold in hotel lobbies and magazine stands. International newspapers such as the International Herald Tribune and the Asian Wall Street Journal are also widely available. Of the local KL magazines, Time Out has good listings and local "what's happening" information.

Packing -- Despite the tropical weather, you'll want to bring a light jacket or sweater for moments when you're stuck in freezing air-conditioning. I usually wear shoes that are easily slipped on and off -- handy when visiting religious sites. A light-colored umbrella also doubles as a parasol. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- For all emergencies, call 999. By and large, law enforcement agents in Malaysia's cities and major towns can speak English. While tourist police do exist, they are not as ubiquitous as tourist police in other countries, such as Thailand.

Taxes -- Hotels, with the exception of those on Langkawi, add a 5% government tax to all rates, plus an additional 10% service charge. Larger restaurants also figure the same 5% tax into your bill, plus a 10% service charge, whereas small coffee shops and hawker stalls don't charge anything above the cost of the meal. Although most tourist goods (such as crafts, camera equipment, sports equipment, cosmetics, and select small electronic items) are tax-free, a small, scaled tax is issued on various other goods, such as clothing, shoes, and accessories that you'd buy in the larger shopping malls and department stores.

Time -- Malaysia is 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 16 hours ahead of U.S. Pacific Standard Time, 13 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, and 2 hours behind Sydney. It is in the same zone as Singapore. There is no daylight saving time.

Tipping -- Tipping is not expected, but most will leave coins behind. For bellhops, I give at least RM2 per bag, RM5 in a very expensive hotel or resort.

Toilets -- To find a public toilet, ask for the tandas. In Malay, lelaki is male and perempuan is female. Be prepared for pay toilets. Coin collectors sit outside almost every public facility, taking RM.20 per person, RM.30 if you want tissue. Once inside, you'll find that your money doesn't go for cleaning crews. Public toilets are pure filth. They smell horrible and the floors are always an inch deep with stagnant water. While most toilets are of the "squatty-potty" variety (a porcelain bowl set into the floor), even if you find a seat-style toilet bowl, locals typically place their feet on the seat to squat. The nicer toilets are in hotels, upmarket shopping malls, and restaurants.

Visitor Information -- Tourism Malaysia (www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my) provides excellent information, including websites, brochures, pamphlets, and other information that is regularly updated. Within Malaysia, each state or tourist destination has its own tourism board that operates a website and local offices for tourist information. These are also good sources for information, as they have on-the-ground knowledge that's more current. For each destination, I have provided websites, telephone contacts, and locations of information offices.

Malaysia Hotel News (www.malaysiahotelnews.blogspot.com) is a blog that covers all aspects of tourism in Malaysia, from government policy to hotel openings, to special events. It is a very comprehensive source for what's happening in the industry, with valuable information for tourism professionals and travelers alike.

Water -- Water in Kuala Lumpur is supposed to be potable, but most locals boil the water before drinking it. I advise against drinking the tap water anywhere in Malaysia. Hotels will supply bottled water in your room. If they charge you for it, expect inflated prices, especially for premium imported water. A 1.5-liter bottle goes for RM7 in a hotel minibar, but RM2 at 7-Eleven.

Tips for Jewish Travelers

Jewish travelers, take note: Travelers with Israeli passports are not permitted to enter Malaysia. If you are of Jewish heritage and carry a passport from a country other than Israel, I recommend you downplay your heritage. Malaysian politicians have been known to make anti-Semitic comments in public, sentiments that, unfortunately, carry over into some sections of the general population.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Malaysia's currency is the Malaysian ringgit. Prices are marked as RM (a designation I've used throughout this book). Notes are issued in denominations of RM1, RM2, RM5, RM10, RM20, RM50, and RM100. One ringgit is equal to 100 sen. Coins come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, and 50 sen.

In 2005, Malaysia ended a 7-year peg of the ringgit at RM3.80 to US$1. Now the country uses a managed float system that measures the currency against a basket of several major currencies.

Currency can be changed at banks and hotels, but you'll get a more favorable rate if you go to one of the moneychangers that seem to be everywhere; in shopping centers, in lanes, and in small stores -- just look for signs. They are often men in tiny booths with a display on the wall behind them showing the exchange rate. All major currencies are accepted, and there is never a problem with the U.S. dollar, except for dirty or old notes.

Automated teller machines (ATMs) are found throughout the country, especially where tourists frequent. They will be hard to find on smaller islands and remote beach areas. In addition, some ATMs may not accept credit cards or debit cards from your home bank. I have found that debit cards on the MasterCard/Cirrus or Visa/Plus networks are almost always accepted at Maybank, with at least one location in every major town. Cash is dispensed in ringgit deducted from your account at the day's rate.

Credit cards are widely accepted at hotels and restaurants, and at many shops as well. Most popular are American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Some banks may also be willing to advance cash against your credit card, but you have to ask around because this service is not available everywhere.

In Malaysia, to report a lost or stolen card, call American Express at its head office in Kuala Lumpur (tel. 03/2161-4000); for MasterCard, call tel. 800/804-594; and for Visa, call tel. 800/800159. Both numbers are toll-free from anywhere in the country.

Note: Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in Kuala Lumpur (Malaysian Ringgit)

Taxi from the airport to downtown Kuala Lumpur 102.10

Double room, moderate 300.00

Double room, inexpensive 160.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 45.00

Pint of beer 18.00

Cup of coffee 7.00

Admission to the National Museum 2.00

Admission to the KL Bird Park 45.00

Escorted & Package Tours

Adventure Trips

Peninsular Malaysia has easy access to jungle trekking (in Taman Negara), scuba and snorkeling (in Langkawi, Tioman, and Redang), and, at certain times of the year, surfing and wakeboarding (in Cherating), but the states of Sabah and Sarawak are the true adventure seeker's dream. Both states have massive tracts of primary rainforest, unique plants and animals, and fascinating indigenous people. Sarawak claims one of the longest cave systems in the world, parts of which contain evidence of prehistoric civilizations. Sabah has the added attraction of excellent scuba in Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, Layang Layang, and Sipadan; mountain trekking at Mt. Kinabalu; and white-water rafting at certain times of the year. For the best adventure travel operators, see the recommended tour operators in "Responsible Travel," above.

Food Trips

Travelers who are interested in learning more about Malaysian food should contact foodies 'n' friends (www.foodiesnfriends.com.my) for tours within KL and around the country, as well as master classes, workshops, and even cooking classes for children. One of the best places to learn about the intricacies of Malay cooking is with Shukri Shafie, who conducts hands-on "Cook with Shuk" classes in his traditional-style wooden Malay kampung home on Langkawi island. He also operates a beachside restaurant on Langkawi called The Lighthouse (www.thelighthouse-langkawi.com).

Medical Trips

Malaysia has been attracting medical tourists who come for quality services in a number of state-of-the-art, internationally accredited hospitals staffed by Western-trained physicians. While cost-cutting is typically the main motivation for such trips, other factors include privacy issues and holiday down-time during recuperation.

Tourism Malaysia recommends two organizations, Malaysia Healthcare (www.malaysiahealthcare.com) and MediTravel (www.meditravel.com.my), both of which can help travelers plan their medical needs, link them with specialists appropriate to their cases, and help plan all aspects of travel.

Volunteer & Working Trips

The World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF-Malaysia, previously the World Wildlife Fund; tel. 03/7803-3772; fax 03/7803-5157; www.wwf.org.my) can provide assistance to those who are seeking to volunteer or take up an internship in Malaysia, or at least direct potential visitors to organizations or locations where this could be possible. Resumes should be forwarded directly to careersjob@wwf.org.my.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

According to Malaysian law, homosexuality is a punishable offense that can carry a prison sentence. LGBT travelers should remain aware that Islam does not accept homosexuality and many Malay Muslims can be quite socially conservative -- in many places, it is considered a crime for lovers of opposite genders to show public displays of affection, let alone lovers of the same gender.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

To enter Malaysia, you must have a passport that is valid for at least 6 months beyond your date of entry. To obtain a passport, contact one of the following passport offices:

• Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).
• Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
• Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
• New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
• United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
• United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States do not need visas for tourism and business visits, and upon entry are granted a Social/Business Visit Pass good for up to 3 months. For other countries, consult the nearest Malaysian consulate before your trip for visa regulations. Note: Travelers holding Israeli passports are not permitted to travel within Malaysia (likewise, Malaysians are forbidden from traveling to Israel)

Customs

With regard to currency, you can bring into the country as many foreign currency notes or traveler's checks as you please, but amounts exceeding RM10,000 or its equivalent in foreign currency need to be declared. Social visitors can enter Malaysia with 1 liter of alcohol and 1 carton of cigarettes without paying duty -- anything over that amount is subject to local taxes. Prohibited items include firearms and ammunition, daggers and knives, and pornographic materials. Be advised that, similar to Singapore, Malaysia enforces a very strict drug-abuse policy that includes the death sentence for convicted drug traffickers. For more information, visit www.customs.gov.my.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from yellow fever, inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Malaysia.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Malaysia has pledged environmental sustainability efforts, but unfortunately, it has fallen short in the areas of effective policy and enforcement. Loss of rainforest is a pressing environmental issue for this tropical country. It is estimated that between 1990 and 2005, deforestation was responsible for a loss of 6.6% of the nation's rainforest. Forestry remains a cash cow, as is agriculture -- specifically, the production of palm oil. Urbanization has also taken its toll. PM Najib's New Economic Model, unveiled in 2010, promises policies that will promote the development of sustainable economic growth, which includes the sustainable tourism industry.

As the demands of modern civilization encroach on rainforests, Malaysia's indigenous inhabitants are finding their ancient ways of life under threat. Orang asli, or "original people," make up a tiny sliver of the population, at only 110,000 people divided among 18 different ethnic groups. Most still call the rainforest home and practice traditional hunting and gathering methods for survival, but are losing their land, through sudden eviction with little monetary compensation, to business and government interests.

The underwater environment is also under threat. In 2010, the World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) reported that dive tourism is one of the fastest-growing sectors within the tourism industry. Tourism Malaysia is aware of the potential of this sector and has touted the country's dive sites -- particularly Sipadan in Sabah -- to attract divers. Unfortunately, the government has no policy in place to help guide this sector sustainably, and dive operations are very poorly regulated.

In 2010, Malaysia temporarily closed a number of dive sites along its eastern coastline due to coral bleaching, damage to living reefs caused by rising sea temperatures -- this is the result of global warming. Popular dive sites off the islands of Perhentian, Redang, and Tioman were shut down for a few months to monitor the effects and prevent further damage, but they have since reopened.

However, despite these threats, ecotourism persists -- and there is a way to travel responsibly. Malaysia naturally lends itself to ecotourism, as many parts of the country are covered in primary vegetation, and there are some tour operators who offer unique travel opportunities that are sensitive to wildlife and indigenous cultures. Malaysia's best natural experiences are found in places like Taman Negara, Endau Rompin, parts of Langkawi, and Sarawak and Sabah on the island of Borneo. Seek out natural ecoadventures in Kinabalu Park, Turtle Islands Park, Danum Valley, Tabin Wildlife Reserve, and the Lower Kinabatangan River in Sabah. In Sarawak, similar experiences can be had in national parks like Gunung Mulu, Bako, Batang Ai, and Gunung Gading.

In this guidebook, I have done my best to recommend ecotour operators that are "eco" in more than just name, conducting their operations with respect for the environment on which they depend. Where tour operators bring travelers into areas inhabited by orang asli, I have recommended only those outfits that I feel demonstrate a genuine sensitivity toward and understanding of these communities.

Some of Malaysia's longest-established and most reputable ecotourism operators include Asian Overland Services (head office tel. 03/4252-9100; fax 03/4257-1133; www.asianoverland.com.my), with offices in KL, Langkawi, Penang, Kota Kinabalu, and Kuching. They also operate one of the country's leading green hotels, the Frangipani Langkawi Resort and Spa (tel. 04/952-0000; fax 04/952-0001; www.frangipanilangkawi.com). In Sabah, Wilderness Expeditions (tel. 089/219-616; fax 089/214-570; www.wildlife-expeditions.com) offers tours to all the state's leading natural areas. One of Sarawak's most respected ecotouring companies is Borneo Adventure (tel. 082/245-175; fax 082/422-626; www.borneoadventure.com), with offices in Kuching, Miri, and Kota Kinabalu (in neighboring Sabah). They offer tours to Bario, Bintulu, Mulu, and various longhouses.

Protecting Malaysia's Rare Species -- Vast tracts of primary rainforest in Malaysian Borneo are protected and believed to contain such rare species of animals as the Sumatran rhinoceros, the Malaysian sun bear, and the clouded leopard. In forest reserves, visitors can sometimes spot large-nosed proboscis monkeys and hornbills, with their colorful beaks. A number of rehabilitation centers on Borneo protect the orangutan from extinction in the face of their disappearing habitat. On Borneo and Peninsular Malaysia, many species of sea turtles that use Malaysia's beaches for nesting grounds are also protected.

Getting Around

Within Malaysia, infrastructure is of good quality with regard to domestic travel -- depending on your budget and the amount of time you have, you'll have a variety of choices that include air carriers, regular train service, a wide web of intercity buses, and well-maintained roads.

By Plane

Malaysia Airlines (tel. 1300/883-000; www.malaysiaairlines.com) links from its hub in Kuala Lumpur the cities of Johor Bahru, Kota Bharu, Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Terengganu, Kuantan, Kuching, Langkawi, Penang, and other smaller cities not covered in this volume. Individual airport information is provided in sections for each city. One-way domestic fares can average RM100 to RM400.

AirAsia (tel. 03/8775-4000; www.airasia.com) competes with Malaysia Airlines with incredibly affordable rates. It links all the country's major cities with fares that, on average, run from RM40 and up -- seriously.

Berjaya Air (tel. 03/2141-0088; www.berjaya-air.com) operates a small fleet of aircraft that services KL to Pangkor, Tioman, Redang, and Langkawi islands, with flights from Koh Samui in Thailand and Singapore as well.

Firefly (tel. 03/7845-4543; www.fireflyz.com) has a small fleet that services some peninsular and East Malaysian destinations.

By Train

The Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM) provides train service throughout peninsular Malaysia. Trains run from north to south between the Thai border and Singapore, with stops including Butterworth (Penang), Kuala Lumpur, and Johor Bahru. There is a second line that branches off at Gemas, midway between Johor Bahru and KL, and heads northeast to Tempas near Kota Bharu. Fares range from RM64 for first class between Johor Bahru and KL, to RM30 for first-class passage between KL and Butterworth.

By Bus

Malaysia's intercity coach system is extensive and inexpensive, but I don't really recommend it. With the exception of executive coach services between KL, Penang, Singapore, and Melaka, which are excellent, standard coaches get dirtier and dirtier each year, maintenance issues are a question mark, and road safety is a roll of the dice. Still, if you must, for each city covered, I've listed bus terminal locations, but scheduling information must be obtained from the bus company itself.

By Taxi

You can take special hired cars, called outstation taxis, between every city and state on the peninsula. Rates depend on the distance you plan to travel. They are fixed and stated at the beginning of the trip but many times can be bargained down. Cars are not of the best quality (usually older sedans), and this is probably the most expensive way to travel between cities, with most trips running between RM250 and RM500. In Kuala Lumpur, the outstation taxi stand has been temporarily relocated from its former base at the Puduraya Bus Terminal, so I recommend contacting them through MTC at tel. 03/9235-4800.

Also, within each of the smaller cities, feel free to negotiate with unmetered taxis for hourly, half-day, or daily rates. It's an excellent way to get around for sightseeing and shopping without transportation hassles. Hourly rates are usually up to RM60 per hour.

By Car

The cities along the west coast of the peninsula are linked by the North-South Highway. There are rest areas with toilets, food outlets, and emergency telephones at intervals along the way. There is also a toll that varies depending on the distance you're traveling.

Driving along the east coast of Malaysia is actually much more pleasant than driving along the west coast. The highway is narrower and older, but it takes you through oil palm and rubber plantations, and the essence of kampung Malaysia permeates throughout. As you near villages, you'll often have to slow down and swerve past cows and goats, which are really quite oblivious to oncoming traffic. You have to get very close to honk at them before they move.

The speed limit on highways is 110kmph (68 mph). On the minor highways, the limit ranges from 70 to 90kmph (43-56 mph). Do not speed, as there are traffic police strategically situated around certain bends.

Distances between major towns are: from KL to Johor Bahru, 368km (228 miles); from KL to Melaka, 144km (89 miles); from KL to Kuantan, 259km (161 miles); from KL to Butterworth, 369km (229 miles); from Johor Bahru to Melaka, 224km (139 miles); from Johor Bahru to Kuantan, 325km (202 miles); from Johor Bahru to Mersing, 134km (83 miles); from Johor Bahru to Butterworth, 737km (657 miles).

To rent a car in Malaysia, you must produce a driver's license from your home country that shows you have been driving at least 2 years. There are desks for major car-rental services at the international airports in Kuala Lumpur and Penang, and additional outlets throughout the country.