Planning a trip to Maui

Staying Connected

Telephones

All calls to destinations on the island are local calls; calls from one island to another via a land line are long distance, and you must dial 1; then the Hawaii area code, 808; and then the phone number. Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be expensive -- charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance ("Information"), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn't mean it'll work in Hawaii (thanks to our nation's fragmented cellphone system). Before you get on the plane to Hawaii, check your wireless company's coverage map on its website. There are parts of [0]Maui[0] (and in some resorts) where coverage is not very good. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won't work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental-car location, but be aware that you'll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

If you're not from the U.S., you'll be appalled at the poor reach of our GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will probably work in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won't work in many rural areas. To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage/national_popup.asp. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

Do NOT use your cellphone while you are driving. Strict laws and heavy fines ($92-$150) are diligently enforced.

Internet & Wi-Fi

On Maui, branches of the Hawaii State Public Library System have computers with Internet access. To find your closest library, check www.librarieshawaii.org/sitemap.htm. There is no charge for use of the computers, but you must have a Hawaii library card, which is free to Hawaii residents and members of the military.

Visitors have a choice of two types of cards: a $25 nonresident card that is good for 5 years (and may be renewed for an additional $25) or a $10 visitor card ($5 for children 18 and under) that is good for 3 months and may be renewed for $10. To download an application for a library card, go to www.librarieshawaii.org/services/libcard.htm.

To find Internet cafes in your destination, check www.cybercaptive.com or www.cybercafe.com.

If you have your own laptop, every Starbucks in Maui has Wi-Fi. For a list of locations, go to www.starbucks.com/retail/find/default.aspx. To find other public Wi-Fi hot spots in your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Wi-Fi Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots.

Most major hotels and interisland airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like FedEx Office (formerly Kinkos), which offer computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Travelers with disabilities are made to feel very welcome in Maui. Hotels are usually equipped with wheelchair-accessible rooms, and tour companies provide many special services. The Hawaii Center for Independent Living, 414 Kauwili St., Ste. 102, Honolulu, HI 96817 (tel. 808/522-5400; fax 808/586-8129), can provide information.

The Hawaii State Department of Health has compiled tips for travelers with disabilities, including equipment rentals and transportation options, for each of the main islands; find the tips for Maui at https://health.hawaii.gov/dcab/files/2018/07/Maui-2018.pdf. The Hawaii Visitors Bureau offers additional advice at www.gohawaii.com/trip-planning/accessibility. Travelers with disabilities are typically made to feel very welcome on Maui; federal law requires hotels and airlines to accommodate wheelchair users, while tour companies provide many special services. The only travel agency in Hawaii specializing in needs for travelers with disabilities is Access Aloha Travel (tel. 800/480-1143; www.accessalohatravel.com), which can book anything, including rental vans (available on Maui and Oahu only), accommodations, tours, cruises, airfare, and anything else you can think of.

For more on organizations that offer resources to travelers with disabilities, go to Frommers.com.

Tips on Accommodations

Maui offers all kinds of accommodations, from simple rooms in restored plantation homes and quaint cottages on the beach to luxurious oceanview condo units and opulent suites in beachfront resorts. Each type has its pluses and minuses, so before you book, make sure you know what you're getting into.

Hotels

In Maui, a "hotel" can indicate a wide range of options, from few or no on-site amenities to enough extras to qualify the place as a miniresort. Generally, a hotel offers daily maid service and has a restaurant, laundry facilities, a pool, and a sundries/convenience-type shop. Top hotels also have activities desks, concierge and valet services, room service, business centers, airport shuttles, bars and/or lounges, and perhaps a few more shops.

The advantages of staying in a hotel are privacy and convenience; the disadvantage is generally noise (either thin walls between rooms or loud music from a lobby lounge late into the night). Hotels are often a short walk from the beach rather than right on the beachfront (although there are exceptions).

Resorts

In Hawaii, a resort offers everything a hotel does—and more. You can expect direct beach access, with lounge chairs and beach gear rentals; pools and a hot tub; a spa and fitness center; restaurants, bars, and lounges; a 24-hour front desk; concierge, valet, and bellhop services; room service (often 24 hr.); an activities desk; tennis and golf onsite or nearby; ocean activities; a business center; kids’ programs; and more. Don’t be misled by a name, though—just because a place is called “ABC Resort” doesn’t mean it actually is a resort. Make sure you’re getting what you pay for. Note that many of the more highend resorts and large hotels charge "resort fees"—ranging from around $15 a night to $40—covering incidentals like pool towels, local phone calls, even parking. Before you book, check your hotel to see if it tacks on a resort fee— the daily charge adds up.

Nickel-and-Dime Charges at High-Priced Hotels -- Several upscale resorts in Maui engage in a practice that I find distasteful and dishonest: charging a so-called resort fee. This daily fee is added on to your bill for such "complimentary" items as a daily newspaper, local phone calls, and use of the fitness facilities -- amenities that the resort has been happily providing free to its guests for years. In most cases, you do not have an option to decline the resort fee -- in other words, this is a sneaky way to increase the nightly rate without telling you.

Resorts

In Hawaii, a resort offers everything a hotel does -- and more. You can expect direct beach access, with beach cabanas and lounge chairs; pools and a Jacuzzi; a spa and fitness center; restaurants, bars, and lounges; a 24-hour front desk; concierge, valet, and bellhop services; room service (often 24-hr.); an activities desk; tennis and golf; ocean activities; a business center; kids' programs; and more.

The advantages of a resort are that you have everything you could possibly want in the way of services and things to do; the disadvantage is that the price generally reflects this. And don't be misled by a name -- just because a place is called "ABC Resort" doesn't mean it actually is a resort. Make sure you're getting what you pay for.

Condos

The roominess and convenience of a condo -- which is usually a fully equipped, multiple-bedroom apartment -- makes this a great choice for families. Condominium properties in Maui generally consist of several apartments set in either a single high-rise or a cluster of low-rise units. Condos usually have amenities such as some maid service (ranging from daily to weekly; it may or may not be included in your rate), a pool, and an on-site front desk or a live-in property manager. Condos tend to be clustered in resort areas. There are some very high-end condos, but most are quite affordable, especially if you're traveling in a group.

The advantages of a condo are privacy, space, and conveniences -- which usually include a full kitchen, a washer and dryer, a private phone, and more. The downsides are the standard lack of an on-site restaurant and the density of the units (vs. the privacy of a single-unit vacation rental).

Bed & Breakfasts

Maui has a wide range of places that call themselves B&Bs: everything from a traditional B&B -- several bedrooms in a home, with breakfast served in the morning -- to what is essentially a vacation rental on an owner's property that comes with fixings for you to make your own breakfast. Make sure that the B&B you're booking matches your own mental picture. Note: Laundry facilities and private phones are not always available. If you have to share a bathroom, I've spelled it out in the listings; otherwise, you can assume that you will have your own.

The advantages of a traditional B&B are its individual style and congenial atmosphere, with a host who's often happy to act as your own private concierge. In addition, they're usually an affordable way to go. The disadvantages are lack of privacy, usually a set time for breakfast, few amenities, and generally no maid service. Also, B&B owners typically require a minimum stay of 2 or 3 nights, and it's often a drive to the beach.

B&B Etiquette  -- In Maui, it is traditional and customary to remove your shoes before entering anyone's home. The same is true at most bed-and-breakfast facilities. If you consider this custom unpleasant, a B&B may not be for you. Maui also has a very strict no-smoking law (no smoking in public buildings, restaurants, bars, retail stores, and the like), and more and more hotels, resorts, condos, and vacation rentals generally do not allow smoking in the guest rooms (those hotels that still do allow smoking all have nonsmoking rooms available). The majority of bed-and-breakfasts forbid smoking. Be sure to check the policy of the establishment before you book.

Vacation Rentals

This is another great choice for families and for long-term stays. "Vacation rental" usually means that there will be no one on the property where you're staying. The actual accommodations can range from an apartment to an entire fully equipped house. Generally, vacation rentals allow you to settle in and make yourself at home for a while. They have kitchen facilities (at least a kitchenette), on-site laundry facilities, and a phone; some also come with such extras as a TV, VCR or DVD player, and stereo.

The advantages of a vacation rental are complete privacy, your own kitchen (which can save you money on meals), and lots of conveniences. The disadvantages are a lack of an on-site property manager and generally no maid service; often a minimum stay is required (sometimes as much as a week). If you book a vacation rental, be sure that you have a 24-hour contact to call if the toilet won't flush or you can't figure out how to turn on the air-conditioning.

Using a Booking Agency Versus Doing It Yourself

If you don't have the time to call several places yourself to make sure they offer the amenities you'd like, you might consider using a booking agency.

A statewide booking agent for B&Bs is Bed & Breakfast Hawaii (tel. 800/733-1632 or 808/822-7771; fax 808/822-2723; www.bandb-hawaii.com), offering a range of accommodations from vacation homes to bed-and-breakfasts, starting at $65 a night. For vacation rentals, contact Hawaii Beachfront Vacation Homes (tel. 808/247-3637; fax 808/235-2644; www.myhawaiibeachfront.com). Hawaii Condo Exchange (tel. 800/442-0404; www.hawaiicondoexchange.com) acts as a consolidator for condo and vacation-rental properties.

Calendar of Events

Please note that as with any schedule of upcoming events, the following information is subject to change; always confirm the details before you plan your trip around an event.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

PGA Championship, Kapalua Resort, Maui. Top PGA golfers compete for $1 million. Call tel. 808/669-2440 or go to www.kapaluamaui.com. First weekend in January.

EA Sports Maui Invitational Basketball Tournament, Lahaina Civic Center, Lahaina. Top college teams vie in this annual preseason tournament. Call tel. 847/850-1818 or go to www.mauiinvitational.com. Early January.

Chinese New Year, Maui. Lahaina town rolls out the red carpet for this important event with a traditional lion dance at the historic Wo Hing Temple on Front Street, accompanied by fireworks, food booths, and a host of activities. Call tel. 888/310-1117 or 808/667-9175 or go to www.visitlahaina.com. Also on Maui, at the Maui Mall in Kahului; call tel. 808/878-1888. Chinese New Year can fall in January or February; 2012 ushers in the year of the dragon on January 23; in 2013, the year of the snake comes in on February 10.

February

Kaanapali Champions Skins Game, Kaanapali Golf Courses, Maui. Longtime golfing greats participate in this four-man tournament for $770,000 in prize money. Call tel. 808/661-3271 or go to www.kaanapali-golf.com. Late January or early February.

Whale Day Celebration, Kalama Park, Kihei. A daylong celebration in the park, with a parade of whales, entertainment, a crafts fair, games, and food. Call tel. 808/249-8811 or go to www.visitmaui.com. Early or mid-February.

Ocean Arts Festival, Lahaina. The entire town of Lahaina celebrates the annual migration of Pacific humpback whales with this festival in Banyan Tree Park. Artists display their best ocean-themed art for sale, while Hawaiian musicians and hula troupes entertain. Enjoy marine-related activities, games, and a Creature Feature touch-pool exhibit for children. Call tel. 888/310-1117 or 808/667-9194 or go to www.visitlahaina.com. Mid-March.

March

Prince Kuhio Day Celebrations. Various festivals are held throughout Hawaii to celebrate the birth of Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, who was born on March 26, 1871, and elected to Congress in 1902. Molokai also hosts a 1-day celebration; call tel. 808/553-3876 or go to www.visitmolokai.com to learn more.

April

East Maui Taro Festival, Hana, Maui. Taro, a Hawaiian staple food, is celebrated through music, hula, arts, crafts, and, of course, food. Call tel. 808/264-1553 or go to www.tarofestival.org. Varying dates in April.

Buddha Day, Lahaina Jodo Mission, Lahaina, Maui. Each year on the first Saturday in April, this historic mission holds a flower festival pageant honoring the birth of Buddha. The first Saturday in April.

Celebration of the Arts, Ritz-Carlton Kapalua, Kapalua Resort, Maui. Contemporary and traditional artists give free hands-on lessons during this 4-day festival, which begins the Thursday before Easter. Call tel. 808/669-6200 or go to www.celebrationofthearts.org. Early April.

Polo Spring Season Begins. For a complete list of all the polo matches in the cool, upcountry area of Maui, call tel. 808/877-7744 or go to www.visitmaui.com.

David Malo Day, Lahainaluna High School, Lahaina. This daylong event, with hula and other Hawaiian cultural celebrations, commemorates Hawaii's famous scholar and ends with a luau. Call tel. 808/662-4000 or go to www.visitmaui.com. Mid- or late April.

Banyan Tree Birthday Party, Lahaina. Come celebrate the birthday of Lahaina's famous Banyan Tree with a weekend of activities. Call tel. 888/310-1117 or 808/667-9175 or go to www.visitlahaina.com. Generally the end of April.

May

Outrigger Canoe Season, all islands. From May to September, canoe paddlers across the state participate in outrigger canoe races nearly every weekend. Call tel. 808/383-7798 or go to www.y2kanu.com for this year's schedule of events.

Lei Day Celebrations, various locations on all islands. May Day is Lei Day in Hawaii, celebrated with lei-making contests, pageantry, arts and crafts and music. For a list of Maui events go to www.visitmaui.com/maui/calendar, which includes the Lei Day Brothers Cazimero concert at the Castle Theatre (tel. 808/242-7469).

Maui Onion Festival, Whalers Village, Kaanapali, Maui. Everything you ever wanted to know about the sweetest onions in the world. There is food, entertainment, tasting, and the Maui Onion cook-off. Call tel. 808/661-4567 or go to www.whalersvillage.com/onionfestival.htm. Early May.

International Festival of Canoes, West Maui. At this celebration of the Pacific islands' seafaring heritage, events include canoe paddling and sailing regattas, a luau feast, cultural demonstrations, canoe-building exhibits, and music. Call tel. 888/310-1117. Mid- to late May.

June

Hawaiian Slack-Key Guitar Festival, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, Kahului, Maui. This festival features great music performed by the best musicians in Hawaii. It's 5 hours long and free. Call tel. 808/226-2697 or go to www.slackkeyfestival.com. Late June. Check the website for festivals on the other islands and their dates.

King Kamehameha Celebration, all islands. This state holiday (officially June 11, but celebrated on different dates on each island) features a massive floral parade, hoolaulea (party), and much more. Call tel. 808/667-9194 for Maui events, tel. 808/553-3876 for Molokai events, or go to http://hawaii.gov/dags/king_kamehameha_commission. Most events in 2012 will be held early to mid-June.

Kapalua Wine & Food Festival, Ritz-Carlton and various locations, Maui. One of Hawaii's best food-and-wine festivals features Hawaii's top chefs as well as international chefs and sommeliers showing off their culinary talents and wines from around the world. The event's 30th year will be 2012. Not to be missed. Call tel. 800/527-2582 or go to www.kapaluamaui.com. Early June.

Maui Film Festival, Wailea Resort, Maui. Five days and nights of screenings of premieres and special films, along with traditional Hawaiian storytelling, chants, hula, and contemporary music. It begins the Wednesday before Father's Day. Call tel. 808/579-9244 or go to www.mauifilmfestival.com. Mid-June.

July

Fourth of July. Lahaina holds an old-fashioned Independence Day celebration with fireworks lighting the night sky over Lahaina's roadstead. Call tel. 888/310-1117 or 808/667-9194 or go to www.visitlahaina.com. Kaanapali puts on a grand old celebration with live music, children's activities, and fireworks. Call tel. 808/661-3271.

Makawao Parade & Rodeo, Makawao, Maui. The annual parade and rodeo event has been taking place in this upcountry cowboy town for generations. Go to www.visitmaui.com. July 4.

Polo Season, Olinda Polo Field, Makawao. Polo matches featuring Hawaii's top players, often joined by famous international players, are held every Sunday at 1pm throughout the summer. Call tel. 808/877-7744 or go to www.mauipolo.com.

Bon Dance & Lantern Ceremony, Lahaina, Maui. This colorful Buddhist ceremony honors the souls of the dead. Call tel. 808/661-4304. Usually the first Saturday in July.

August

Hawaii State Windsurfing Championship, Kanaha Beach Park, Kahului, Maui. Top windsurfers compete. Call tel. 808/877-2111 or go to www.surfmaui.com. Late July or early August.

Tahiti Fete, War Memorial Gym, Wailuku, Maui. This is an annual festival with Tahitian dance competition, arts and crafts, and food. Call tel. 808/250-0737 or go to http://tahitifete.blogspot.com.

Admissions Day, all islands. This is a state holiday honoring the day (August 21, 1959) that Hawaii became the 50th state. All state-related facilities are closed. Third Friday in August.

September

Aloha Festivals, various locations on all islands. Parades and other events celebrate Hawaiian culture and friendliness throughout the state. Call tel. 808/878-1888 or go to www.festivalsofaloha.com.

A Taste of Lahaina, Lahaina Civic Center, Maui. Some 30,000 people show up to sample 40 signature entrees from Maui's premier chefs during this weekend festival, which includes cooking demonstrations, wine tastings, and live entertainment. The event begins Friday night with Maui Chefs Present, a dinner/cocktail party featuring about a dozen of Maui's best chefs. Call tel. 808/667-9175 or go to www.visitmaui.com. Second weekend in September.

Hana Relays, Hana Highway. Hundreds of runners, in relay teams, crowd the Hana Highway from Kahului to Hana (you might want to avoid the road on this day). Call tel. 808/243-9636 or go to www.virr.com. Early September.

Maui Marathon, Kahului to Kaanapali. Runners line up at the Maui Mall before daybreak and head off for Kaanapali. Call tel. 866/577-8379 or go to www.virr.com or www.mauimarathonhawaii.com. Mid- to late September.

Maui County Fair, War Memorial Complex, Wailuku, Maui. The oldest county fair in Hawaii features a parade, amusement rides, live entertainment, and exhibits. Call tel. 808/270-7626 or go to www.calendarmaui.com. Last weekend in September.

October

Aloha Festivals Hoolaulea, Lahaina. This all-day cultural festival, which marks the end of Maui's Aloha Festivals Week, is held at Banyan Tree Park and features Hawaiian food, music, and dance, along with arts and crafts on display and for sale. Call tel. 888/310-1117 or 808/667-9194 or go to www.visitlahaina.com. September or October.

November

Hawaii International Film Festival, various locations throughout the state. This cinema festival with a cross-cultural spin features filmmakers from Asia, the Pacific Islands, and the United States. Call tel. 808/792-1577 or go to www.hiff.org. Late October or early November.

December

Na Mele O Maui, Kaanapali, Maui. A traditional Hawaiian song competition for children in kindergarten through 12th grade, held in the ballroom of one of the Kaanapali Resort hotels. Admission is $5 donation. Call tel. 808/661-3271 or go to www.kaanapaliresort.com. First Friday in December.

Hui Noeau Christmas House, Makawao. The festivities in the beautifully decorated Hui mansion include shopping, workshops and art demonstrations, children's activities and visits with Santa, holiday music, fresh-baked goods, and local foods. Call tel. 808/572-6560 or go to www.huinoeau.com. Late November and early December.

Billabong Pro Maui, Honolua Bay at Kapalua Resort, Maui. The final Triple Crown women's surfing contest of the year, bringing together the best of the women's international surfing community. Call tel. 800/527-2582 or go to www.billabongpro.com. Early December.

Festival of Trees, Lahaina Cannery Mall, Lahaina. Look for decorated trees as well as entertainment. Call tel. 808/661-5304. Early December.

Lighting of the Banyan Tree, Lahaina. At 6:30pm, Lahaina's historic Banyan Tree is lit up with thousands of Christmas lights for the entire holiday season. Santa Claus makes an appearance, and choirs sing Christmas carols accompanied by hula. Kids can join a cookie workshop. Call tel. 808/667-9194 or 667-9194 or go to www.visitlahaina.com. Early December.

Tree Lighting Ceremony, Ritz-Carlton Kapalua, Kapalua Resort. With the flick of a switch, more than 250,000 sparkling lights illuminate a 25-foot holiday tree and dozens of pine and palm trees around the courtyards of the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua and throughout the resort. Call tel. 808/669-6200 or go to www.kapaluaresort.com. Early December.

Festival of Lights, all islands. On Maui, marching bands, floats, and Santa roll down Lahaina's Front Street in an annual parade. Molokai celebrates with a host of activities in Kaunakakai. Call tel. 808/667-9175 for Maui and go to www.visitmolokai.com for Molokai. Early December.

Old-Fashioned Holiday Celebration, Lahaina, Maui. This day of Christmas carolers, Santa Claus, live music and entertainment, a crafts fair, holiday baked goods, and activities for children takes place in the Banyan Tree Park on Front Street. Call tel. 888/667-9175 or go to www.visitlahaina.com. First weekend in December.

FirstLight; Academy Screening on Maui, Maui Arts & Cultural Center, Kahului, Maui. Major films are screened at this festival; past selections have included The Lord of the Rings: Return of the King, Mystic River, The Aviator, Hotel Rwanda, and many others. Not to be missed. Call tel. 808/579-9244 or 808/242-7469 or go to www.mauifilmfestival.com. Late December and early January.

Ongoing events on Maui

Every Friday night from 7 to 10pm, as part of Friday Night Is Art Night in Lahaina, the town's galleries open their doors for special shows, demonstrations, and refreshments. There are even strolling musicians wandering the streets.

If you're hungry for Hawaiian music, the Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Series (tel. 888/669-3858; www.slackkey.com) features some of the great masters (and some Grammy Award winners) of this guitar style unique to the Hawaiian Islands. Concerts are held every Wednesday night at 7:30pm at the Napili Kai Beach Resort. Tickets are $40; call in advance for reservations.

On the first and third weekends of the month, Hawaiian artists sell and share culture, arts, and crafts under the famous landmark Banyan Tree in Lahaina. On the other weekends, the Lahaina Arts Society holds an exhibit and sale of various works of art in the same place.

Every Wednesday at 5:30 and 7:30pm, the Maui Film Festival (tel. 808/572-3456 or 579-9244; www.mauifilmfestival.com) presents outstanding contemporary and art films at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way (just off Kahului Beach Rd.), in Kahului.

You don't have to spend a good chunk of change and order two drinks to experience the Hawaiian art of hula. There are free hula performances every week. In Lahaina, they take place Saturday and Sunday at 1pm and Tuesday and Thursday at 7pm in the Lahaina Cannery Mall. In Kaanapali, they're held nightly, at 7 and 8pm at the Whalers Village; and every night at 6:30pm at the Kaanapali Beach Hotel. If you would like to try the hula yourself, there are free hula lessons at Whalers Village every Thursday from 3 to 4pm.

Maui's produce has long been a source of pride for islanders, check out Farmers' Markets around the island.

Fast Facts

Business Hours—Most offices are generally open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. Bank hours are Monday through Thursday from 8:30am to 4pm and Friday from 8:30am to 6pm; some banks are open on Saturday as well. Major shopping centers are open Monday through Saturday from 9:30am to 9pm and Sunday from 10am to 5pm.

Drinking Laws—Beer, wine, and liquor are sold at grocery stores, convenience stores, and liquor stores from 6am to 11pm. In Maui County (Maui, Molokai, and Lanai), bars and nightclubs must close by 2am.

The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don’t even think about driving while intoxicated (the legal blood alcohol concentration limit for adults is .08%; for ages under 21, it’s .02%.) You may lose your license, be fined, and face jail time, or all three.

Electricity—Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you. 

Language—As in the rest of the United States, English is spoken in Hawaii, but it helps to recognize common Hawaiian words (as in mahalo, or “thank you”) and understand the basics of pronunciation for unfamiliar place or personal names. Hawaiian pidgin, a simplified English that includes loan words from Hawaiian, Chinese, Japanese, among other sources, has also contributed many words to common usage (e.g., “grindz” for food), but non-locals are advised not to imitate it.

Legal Aid—Generally, Hawaii has the same laws as the mainland United States. Nudity is illegal in Hawaii. There are no legal nude beaches (despite what you might see at Maui’s Little Beach, or read elsewhere). If you are nude on a beach (or anywhere) in Hawaii, you can be arrested.

Selling, owning, or using marijuana for recreational purposes is illegal. At press time, the state legislature was still trying to figure out how to register out-of-state patients and caregivers in the local medical cannabis registry program (http://health.hawaii.gov/medicalcannabisregistry). For now, if you attempt to buy marijuana or light up, you can be arrested. 

While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, online, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

Newspapers, Magazines & Websites—The island’s daily newspaper is the Maui News (www.mauinews.com) while the alternative weekly paper is Maui Time (www.mauitime.com); you can find both on Facebook as well. Publications for visitors include This Week Maui (www.thisweek.com), Maui Visitor Magazine (www.alohavisitorguides.com), and 101 Things to Do on Maui (www.101thingstodo.com/maui). Maui Now (www.mauinow.com) is an online portal with useful entertainment and dining news as well as local reports.

Packing—Maui is very informal. Shorts, T-shirts, and sandals or tennis shoes will get you by at most restaurants and attractions; a casual dress or a polo or aloha shirt and khakis are fine even in the most expensive places. Aloha wear, which does not include T-shirts, is acceptable everywhere, so you may want to plan on buying an aloha shirt or a muumuu (a Hawaiian-style dress) while you’re in the islands.

Bring T-shirts, shorts, long pants (for hiking or cool evenings), a couple of bathing suits, a long-sleeve coverup (to throw on at the beach when you’ve had enough sun for the day), tennis shoes, rubber water shoes or flip-flops, and hiking boots and good socks if you plan on hiking.

The tropical sun poses the greatest threat to anyone who ventures into the great outdoors, so be sure to pack a good pair of sunglasses, strong reef-safe sunscreen (see “Save the Reefs and Your Skin,” ), a light hat, and a reusable water bottle—you’ll easily dehydrate in the tropical heat. Campers should bring water-purification tablets or devices.

One last thing: It really can get cold on Maui. If you plan to see the sunrise from the top of Maui’s Haleakala Crater, take a warm jacket; an upcountry temperature of 40[dg]F (4[dg]C), even in summer when it’s 80[dg]F (27[dg]C) at the beach, is not uncommon. It’s always a good idea to bring at least a windbreaker, a fleece pullover, or a light jacket. Rain showers can happen any time, but especially between November and March, so a waterproof poncho may come in handy.

Time—The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii each have their own zone: Alaska Standard Time (AST) and Hawaii Standard Time (HST). For example, when it’s 7am on Maui (HST), it’s 9am in Los Angeles (PST), 10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (Greenwich Mean Time), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight Saving Time, which moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time, is in effect from 2am on the second Sunday in March to 2am on the first Sunday in November in most of the United States. Hawaii does not observe Daylight Saving Time. Note: During Daylight Saving Time, Hawaii is 3 hours behind the West Coast and 6 hours behind the East Coast.

Toilets—You won’t find public toilets or “restrooms” on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons

Visitor Information—The Maui Visitors Bureau, which includes Molokai and Lanai, is at 1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, Maui (www.gohawaii.com; 📞 800/525- MAUI [6284] or 808/244-3530).

Water—The water in your hotel or at public drinking fountains is safe to drink, although it may have more chlorine than you like. To avoid bacterial disease such as leptospirosis, never drink water from streams or waterfalls without treating first, and avoid swimming in fresh water with open cuts.

Weather—For the current weather, the Haleakala National Park weather, or marine and surf conditions, call the National Weather Service’s Hawaii forecast (📞 866/944-5025 or 808/944-3756) or visit weather.gov/hawaii and click on the island of Maui.

Dentists—If you have dental problems, a nationwide referral service known as 1-800-DENTIST (800/336-8478) will provide the name of a nearby dentist or clinic. Emergency dental care is available at Hawaii Family Dental, 1847 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei (https://hawaiifamilydental.com 808/874-8401 and 95 Lono Av., Ste 210, Kahului 808/856-4626), or at Aloha Lahaina Dentists, 134 Luakini St. (in the Maui Medical Group Bldg.), Lahaina (808/661-4005).

Doctors—Urgent Care West Maui, located in the Fairway Shops, 2580 Kekaa Dr., Suite 111, Kaanapali (www.westmauidoctors.com; 808/667-9721), is open 365 days a year; no appointment necessary. In Kihei, call Urgent Care Maui, 1325 S. Kihei Rd., Suite 103 (at Lipoa St., across from Times Market), Kihei ( 808/879-7781); it’s open Monday to Saturday 7am to 9pm and Sunday 8am to 2pm.

Emergencies—Call 911 for police, fire, and ambulance service. District stations are located in Lahaina (808/661-4441) and in Hana (808/248-8311). For the Poison Control Center, call 800/222-1222.

Hospitals—In Central Maui, Maui Memorial Medical Center is at 221 Mahalani, Wailuku (808/244-9056). East Maui’s Hana Community Health Center is open weekdays at 4590 Hana Hwy. (www.hanahealth.org; 808/248-7515). In upcountry Maui, Kula Hospital is at 100 Keokea Pl. (off of Kula Highway), Kula (808/878-1221).

Internet Access—Many places offer free Wi-Fi. Whole Foods (www.wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/maui) has Wi-Fi at the Maui Mall in Kahului, and Starbucks (www.starbucks.com/store-locator) provides Internet service in its stores in Kahului, Pukalani, Lahaina, and Kihei. If you need a computer, visit a public library (to find the closest location, check www.publiclibraries.com/hawaii.htm). A library card gets you free access; you can purchase a 3-month visitor card for $10.

Post Office—To find the nearest post office, call 800/ASK-USPS. In Lahaina, branches are located at the Lahaina Civic Center, 1760 Honoapiilani Hwy., and at the Lahaina Shopping Center, 132 Papalaua St. In Kahului, there’s a branch at 138 S. Puunēnē Ave., and in Kihei, there’s one at 1254 S. Kihei Rd.

Weather—For the current weather, the Haleakala National Park weather, or the marine and surf conditions, call the National Weather Service’s Maui forecast (866/944-5025) or visit www.prh.noaa.gov/hnl and click on the island of Maui.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

ATMs (Cashpoints) are everywhere in Maui -- at banks, supermarkets, Longs Drugs, and in some resorts and shopping centers. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the country; you can find them even in remote regions. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart.

Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee is often higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. Visitors from outside the U.S. should also find out whether their bank assesses a fee on charges incurred abroad.

Credit cards are accepted everywhere except taxicabs and some small restaurants and bed-and-breakfasts.

Taxes[en]The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. The state general excise tax (GET) can vary in Hawaii due to county surcharges; on Maui, it’s 4.166% on all purchases. The transient accommodations tax (TAX) is 10.25%; combined with GET, it means 14.416% will be added to your bill for hotel or other lodgings.

Tipping[en]Especially in Hawaii, tips are a very important part of certain low-wage workers’ income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $2 per bag (more if you have a lot of luggage or very bulky bags), and tip housekeepers $2 to $5 per day depending on the size of the room (more if you’ve left a disaster area to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $3 to $5 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, and tip valet-parking attendants $3 to $5 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $2 per bag; and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Escorted & Package Tours

If all you want is a fabulous beach and a perfectly mixed mai tai, then Maui has what you're looking for. But the island's wealth of natural wonders is equally hard to resist; the year-round tropical climate and spectacular scenery tend to inspire almost everyone to get outside and explore.

If you don't have your own snorkel gear or other watersports equipment, or if you just don't feel like packing it, don't fret: Everything you'll need is available for rent.

Outdoor Etiquette -- Act locally, think globally, and carry out what you carry in. Find a trash container for all your litter (including cigarette butts; it's very bad form to throw them out of your car window or to use the beach as an ashtray). Observe KAPU (taboo) and NO TRESPASSING signs. Don't climb on ancient Hawaiian heiau (temple) walls or carry home rocks, all of which belong to the Hawaiian volcano goddess, Pele. Some say it's just a silly superstition, but each year the national and state park services get boxes of lava rocks in the mail that have been sent back to Hawaii by visitors who've experienced unusually bad luck.

Setting Out on Your Own Versus Using an Outfitter

There are two ways to go: Plan all the details before you leave and either rent gear or schlep your stuff 2,500 miles across the Pacific, or go with an outfitter or a guide and let someone else worry about the details.

Experienced outdoors enthusiasts may head to coastal campgrounds or even trek to the 10,000-foot-high summit of Haleakale on their own. But in Maui, it's often preferable to go with a local guide who is familiar with the conditions at both sea level and summit peaks, knows the land and its flora and fauna in detail, and has all the gear you'll need. It's also good to go with a guide if time is an issue or if you have specialized interests. If you really want to see native birds, for instance, an experienced guide will take you directly to the best areas for sightings. And many forests and valleys in the interior of the islands are either on private property or in wilderness preserves accessible only on guided tours. The downside? If you go with a guide, plan on spending at least $100 a day per person.

But if you have the time, already own the gear, and love doing the research and planning, try exploring on your own. This book discusses the best spots to set out on your own, from the top offshore snorkel and dive spots to great daylong hikes, as well as the federal, state, and county agencies that can help you with hikes on public property; I also list references for spotting birds, plants, and sea life. I recommend that you always use the resources available to inquire about weather, trail, or surf conditions; water availability; and other conditions before you take off on your adventure.

For hikers, a great alternative to hiring a private guide is taking a guided hike offered by the Nature Conservancy of Hawaii, PO Box 96, Honolulu, HI 96759 (tel. 808/572-7849 on Maui, or 808/553-5236 on Molokai); or the Hawaii Chapter of the Sierra Club, PO Box 2577, Honolulu, HI 96813 (tel. 808/579-9802 on Oahu; www.hi.sierraclub.org). Both organizations offer guided hikes in preserves and special areas during the year, as well as day- to weeklong work trips to restore habitats and trails and to root out invasive plants. It might not sound like a dream vacation to everyone, but it's a chance to see the "real" Hawaii -- including wilderness areas that are ordinarily off-limits.

All Nature Conservancy hikes and work trips are free (donations are appreciated). However, you must reserve a spot for yourself, and a deposit is required for guided hikes to ensure that you'll show up; your deposit is refunded when you do. The hikes are generally offered once a month on Maui, Molokai, and Lanai. For all islands, call the Oahu office for reservations. Write for a schedule of guided hikes and other programs.

The Sierra Club offers weekly hikes on Maui. They are led by certified Sierra Club volunteers and are classified as easy, moderate, or strenuous. These half- or all-day affairs cost $1 for Sierra Club members and $3 for nonmembers (bring exact change). For a copy of the club newsletter, which lists all outings and trail-repair work, send $2 to the address above.

For more information, contact the Hawaii Ecotourism Association (tel. 877/300-7058; www.hawaiiecotourism.org).

Using Activities Desks to Book Your Island Fun

If you're unsure of which activity or which outfitter or guide is the right one for you and your family, you might want to consider booking through a discount activities center or activities desk. Not only will they save you money, but good activities centers should also be able to help you find, say, the snorkel cruise that's right for you, or the luau that's most suitable for both you and the kids.

Remember, however, that it's in the activities agent's best interest to sign you up with outfitters from which they earn the most commission. Some agents have no qualms about booking you into any activity if it means an extra buck for them. If an agent tries to push a particular outfitter or activity too hard, be skeptical. Conversely, they'll try to steer you away from outfitters who don't offer big commissions. For example, Trilogy, the company that offers Maui's most popular snorkel cruises to Lanai (and the only one with rights to land at Lanai's Hulopoe Beach), offers only minimum commissions to agents and does not allow agents to offer any discounts at all. As a result, most activities desks will automatically try to steer you away from Trilogy.

Another word of warning: Stay away from activities centers that offer discounts as fronts for timeshare sales presentations. Using a free or discounted snorkel cruise or luau tickets as bait, they'll suck you into a 90-minute presentation -- and try to get you to buy into a Hawaii timeshare in the process. Because their business is timeshares, not activities, they won't be as interested in, or as knowledgeable about, which activities might be right for you. These shady deals seem to be particularly rampant on Maui.

There are a number of very reliable local activities centers on each of the neighbor islands. On Maui, your best bet is Tom Barefoot's Cashback Tours, 250 Alamaha St., Kahului (tel. 800/895-2040 or 808/661-8889; www.tombarefoot.com). Tom offers a 10% discount on all tours, activities, and adventures if you pay using cash, a personal check, or traveler's checks. If you use a credit card, you'll get a 7% discount. Finally, you can reserve activities yourself and save the commission by booking via the Internet. Most outfitters offer 10% to 25% off their prices if you book online.

The Island in Brief

This medium-sized island lies in the center of the Hawaiian archipelago.

Central Maui

Maui, the Valley Isle, is so named for the large isthmus between the island’s two towering volcanoes: Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. The flat landscape in between, Central Maui, is the heart of the island’s business community and local government.

Kahului—Most Maui visitors fly over former sugarcane fields to land at Kahului Airport, just yards away from rolling surf. Sadly, your first sight out of the airport will likely be Target or Costco—hardly icons of Hawaiiana but always bustling with islanders and visitors alike. Beyond that, Kahului is a grid of shops and suburbs that you’ll pass through en route to your destination.

Wailuku—Nestled up against the West Maui Mountains, Wailuku is a time capsule of faded wooden storefronts, old churches, and plantation homes. Although most people zip through on their way to see the natural beauty of Iao Valley, this quaint little town is worth a brief visit, if only to see a real place where real people actually appear to be working at something other than a suntan. This is the county seat, so you’ll see folks in suits (or at least aloha shirts and long pants). The town has some great budget restaurants, interesting bungalow architecture, a wonderful historic B&B, and the intriguing Bailey House Museum.

West Maui

Jagged peaks, velvety green valleys, a wilderness full of native species: The majestic West Maui Mountains are the epitome of earthly paradise. The beaches below are crowded with condos and resorts, but still achingly beautiful. This stretch of coastline from Kapalua to the historic port of Lahaina, is the island’s busiest resort area (with South Maui close behind). Expect slow-moving traffic on the two main thoroughfares: Honoapiilani Highway and Front Street.

Vacationers on this coast can choose from several beachside neighborhoods, each with its own identity and microclimate. The West Side tends to be hot, humid, and sunny; as you travel north, the weather grows cooler and mistier. Starting at the southern end of West Maui and moving northward, the coastal communities look like this:

Lahaina—In days past, Lahaina was the seat of Hawaiian royalty. Legend has it that a powerful moo (lizard goddess) dwelt in a moat surrounding a palace here. Later this hot and sunny seaport was where raucous whalers swaggered ashore in search of women and grog. Modern Lahaina is a tame version of its former self. Today Front Street teems with restaurants, T-shirt shops, and galleries. Action revolves around the town’s giant, century-old banyan tree and busy recreational harbor. Lahaina is rife with tourist traps, but you can still find plenty of authentic history here. It’s also a great place to stay; accommodations include a few old hotels (such as the 1901 Pioneer Inn on the harbor), quaint bed-and-breakfasts, and a handful of oceanfront condos.

Kaanapali—Farther north along the West Maui coast is Hawaii’s first master-planned destination resort. Along nearly 3 miles of sun-kissed golden beach, pricey midrise hotels are linked by a landscaped parkway and a beachfront walking path. Golf greens wrap around the slope between beachfront and hillside properties. Convenience is a factor here: Whalers Village shopping mall and numerous restaurants are easy to reach on foot or by resort shuttle. Shuttles serve the small West Maui airport and also go to Lahaina (see above), 3 miles to the south, for shopping, dining, entertainment, and boat tours. Kaanapali is popular with groups and families—and especially teenagers, who like all the action.

Honokowai, Kahana—In the building binge of the 1970s, condominiums sprouted along this gorgeous coastline like mushrooms after a rain. Today these older oceanside units offer excellent bargains for astute travelers. The great location—along sandy beaches, within minutes of both the Kapalua and Kaanapali resort areas, and close enough to the goings-on in Lahaina town—makes this a haven for the budget-minded.

In Honokowai and Mahinahina, you’ll find mostly older, cheaper units. There’s not much shopping here (mostly convenience stores), but you’ll have easy access to the shops and restaurants of Kaanapali. Kahana is a little more upscale than Honokowai and Mahinahina, and most of its condos are big high-rise types, newer than those immediately to the south.

Napili—A quiet, tucked-away gem, with temperatures at least 5 degrees cooler than in Lahaina, this tiny neighborhood feels like a world unto itself. Wrapped around deliciously calm Napili Bay, Napili offers convenient activity desks and decent eateries and is close to the gourmet restaurants of Kapalua. Lodging is generally more expensive here—although I’ve found a few hidden jewels at affordable prices.

Kapalua—Beyond the activity of Kaanapali and Kahana, the road starts to climb and the vista opens up to include unfettered views of Molokai across the channel. A country lane lined with Cook pines brings you to Kapalua. It’s the exclusive domain of the luxurious Ritz-Carlton resort and expensive condos and villas, set above two sandy beaches. Just north are two jeweled bays: marine-life preserves and world-class surf spot in winter. Although rain is frequent here, it doesn’t dampen the enjoyment of this wilder stretch of coast.

Anyone is welcome to visit Kapalua, guest of the resort or not. The Ritz-Carlton provides free public parking and beach access. The resort has swank restaurants, spas, golf courses, and hiking trails—all open to the public.

South Maui

The hot, sunny South Maui coastline is popular with families and sun worshippers. Rain rarely falls here, and temperatures hover around 85°F (29°C) year-round. Cows once grazed and cacti grew wild on this former scrubland from Maalaea to Makena, now home to four distinct areas—Maalaea, Kihei, Wailea, and Makena. Maalaea is off on its own, at the mouth of an active small boat harbor, Kihei is the working-class, feeder community for well-heeled Wailea, and Makena is a luxurious wilderness at the road’s end.

Maalaea—If West Maui is the island’s head, Maalaea is just under the chin. This windy, oceanfront village centers on a small-boat harbor (with a general store and a handful of restaurants) and the Maui Ocean Center, an aquarium/ocean complex. Visitors should be aware that tradewinds are near constant here, so a stroll on the beach often comes with a free sandblasting.

Kihei—Less a proper town than a nearly continuous series of condos and mini-malls lining South Kihei Road, Kihei is Maui’s best vacation bargain. Budget travelers swarm like sun-seeking geckos over the eight sandy beaches along this scalloped, 7-mile stretch of coast. Kihei is neither charming nor quaint; what it lacks in aesthetics, though, it more than makes up for in sunshine, affordability, and convenience. If you want the beach in the morning, shopping in the afternoon, and Hawaii Regional Cuisine in the evening—all at bargain prices—head to Kihei.

Wailea—Just 4 decades ago, the road south of Kihei was a barely paved path through a tangle of kiawe trees. Now Wailea is a manicured oasis of multimillion-dollar resorts along 2 miles of palm-fringed gold coast. Wailea has warm, clear water full of tropical fish; year-round sunshine and clear blue skies; and hedonistic pleasure palaces on 1,500 acres of black-lava shore indented by five beautiful beaches, each one prettier than the next.

This is the playground of the stretch-limo set. The planned resort community has a shopping village, a plethora of award-winning restaurants, several prized golf courses, and a tennis complex. A growing number of large homes sprawl over the upper hillside, some offering excellent B&Bs at reasonable prices. The resorts along this fantasy coast are spectacular. Next door to the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, the most elegant, is the Grand Wailea, built by Tokyo developer Takeshi Sekiguchi, who dropped $500 million in 1991 to create the most opulent Hawaiian resort to date. Stop in and take a look—sculptures by Botero and Léger populate its open-air art gallery and gardens. Stones imported from Mount Fuji line the resort's Japanese garden.

Makena—Suddenly, the road enters raw wilderness. After Wailea’s overdone density, the thorny landscape is a welcome relief. Although beautiful, this is an end-of-the-road kind of place: It’s a long drive from Makena to anywhere on Maui. If you’re looking for an activity-filled vacation, stay elsewhere, or you’ll spend most of your vacation in the car. But if you want a quiet, relaxing respite, where the biggest trip of the day is from your bed to the beach, Makena is the place.

Puu Olai stands like Maui’s Diamond Head near the southern tip of the island. The red cinder cone shelters tropical fish and Makena State Beach Park, a vast stretch of golden sand spanked by feisty swells. Beyond Makena, you’ll discover Haleakala’s most recent lava flow; the bay famously visited by French explorer La Pérouse; and a sunbaked lava-rock trail known as the King’s Highway, which threads around Maui’s southernmost shore through the ruins of bygone fishing villages.

Upcountry Maui

After a few days at the beach, you’ll probably notice the 10,023-foot mountain towering over Maui. The leeward slopes of Haleakala (House of the Sun) are home to cowboys, farmers, and other rural folks who wave as you drive by. They’re all up here enjoying the crisp air, emerald pastures, eucalyptus, and flower farms of this tropical Olympus.

The neighborhoods here are called “upcountry” because they’re halfway up the mountain. You can see a thousand tropical sunsets reflected in the windows of houses old and new, strung along a road that runs like a loose hound from Makawao to Kula, leading up to the summit and Haleakala National Park. If you head south on Kula Highway, beyond the tiny outpost of Kēokea, the road turns feral, undulating out toward the MauiWine Vineyards, where cattle, elk, and grapes flourish on Ulupalakua Ranch. A stay upcountry is usually affordable and a nice contrast to the sizzling beaches and busy resorts below.

Makawao—This small, two-street town has plenty of charm. It wasn’t long ago that Hawaiian paniolo (cowboys) tied up their horses to the hitching posts outside the storefronts here; working ranchers still stroll through to pick up coffee and packages from the post office. The eclectic shops, galleries, and restaurants have a little something for everyone—from blocked Stetsons to wind chimes. Nearby, the Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center, Hawaii’s premier arts collective, is definitely worth a detour. Makawao’s only accommodations are reasonably priced B&Bs, ideal for those who love great views and don’t mind slightly chilly nights.

Kula—A feeling of pastoral remoteness prevails in this upcountry community of old flower farms, humble cottages, and new suburban ranch houses with million-dollar views that take in the ocean, the isthmus, the West Maui Mountains, and, at night, the lights that run along the gold coast like a string of pearls from Maalaea to Puu Olai. Everything flourishes at a cool 3,000 feet (bring a jacket), just below the cloud line, along a winding road on the way up to Haleakala National Park. Everyone here grows something—Maui onions, lavender, orchids, and proteas—and B&Bs cater to guests seeking cool tropical nights, panoramic views, and a rural upland escape. Here you’ll find the true peace and quiet that only rural farming country can offer—yet you’re still just 40 minutes away from the beach and a little more than an hour’s drive from Lahaina.

On the Road to Hana—On Maui’s North Shore, Paia was once a busy sugar plantation town with a railroad, two movie theaters, and a double-decker mercantile. As the sugar industry began to wane, the tuned-in, dropped-out hippies of the 1970s moved in, followed shortly by a cosmopolitan collection of windsurfers. When the international wave riders discovered Hookipa Beach Park just outside of town, their minds were blown; it’s one of the best places on the planet to catch air. Today high-tech windsurf shops, trendy restaurants, bikini boutiques, and modern art galleries inhabit Paia’s rainbow-colored vintage buildings. The Dalai Lama himself blessed the beautiful Tibetan stupa in the center of town. Mama’s Fish House is located east of Paia in the tiny community of Kuau, 10 minutes farther east.

Once a pineapple plantation village, complete with two canneries (both now shopping complexes), Haiku offers vacation rentals and B&Bs in a pastoral setting. It’s the perfect base for those who want to get off the beaten path and experience the quieter side of Maui.

Hana—Set between an emerald rainforest and the blue Pacific is a Hawaiian village blissfully lacking in golf courses, shopping malls, and fast-food joints. Hana is more of a sensory overload than a destination; here you’ll discover the simple joys of rain-misted flowers, the sweet taste of backyard bananas and papayas, and the easy calm and unabashed aloha spirit of old Hawaii. What saved “Heavenly” Hana from the inevitable march of progress? The 52-mile Hana Highway, which winds around 600 curves and crosses more than 50 one-lane bridges on its way from Kahului. You can go to Hana for the day—it’s 3 hours (and a half-century) from Kihei and Lahaina—but 3 days are better.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Always carry identification with proof of your age -- it can really pay off. Discounts for seniors are available at almost all of Maui's major attractions and occasionally at hotels and restaurants. The Outrigger hotel chain, for instance, offers travelers ages 50 and older a 20% discount off regular published rates -- and an additional 5% off for members of AARP. Always ask when making hotel reservations or buying tickets.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass (formerly the Golden Age Passport), which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service (NPS) -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS), which issues the passes, at tel. 888/275-8747.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Hawaii is known for its acceptance of all groups. The number of gay- or lesbian-specific accommodations on the islands is limited, but most properties welcome gays and lesbians like any other travelers.

On Maui check out the website for Out in Hawaii (www.outinhawaii.com), which offers "Queer Resources and Information for The State of Hawaii," with vacation ideas, a calendar of events, information on Hawaii, and even a chat room.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

If there is one place on the planet that seems ideally suited for ecotourism and sustainable travel, it's Hawaii, a place people visit because of the ecology -- the ocean, the beach, the mountains, and the overall beauty of the place. It seems only natural that the maintenance of its environment would be a concern, both to the people who live there and the visitors who come to enjoy all its ecosystem has to offer.

In fact, Hawaii has a long history of environmental stewardship. The ancient Hawaiians not only knew about sustainability, but also practiced it in their daily lives. They had to! When the ancient Hawaiians occupied the islands they did not have the luxury of "importing" goods from anywhere else. They had the land under their feet and the ocean to gain subsistence from, and those resources had to last not only for their own lifetime, but also for the lifetimes of generations to come. So these ancient people lived in harmony with the land and sea, and had a complex social structure that managed resources and forbid the taking of various resources during certain times of the year, to allow those resources to replenish themselves.

Now fast forward to the 21st century. Today we, the current stewards of the islands of Hawaii, are just beginning to appreciate just how wise and advanced the ancient Hawaiians were. In some ways, the state of Hawaii is a pioneer when it comes to the various ways it protects and saves its natural resources. (For example, Hawaii is second only to California in the number of marine reserves in the National System of Marine Protected Areas.) And yet in other ways, modern Hawaii still falls short of the ancient Hawaiians, whose unique system sustained, without imports, the entire population.

Ongoing Environmental Initiatives

The state of Hawaii has several excellent stewardship programs to preserve the ocean environment and its resources, such as Marine Life Conservation Districts (an ocean version of parks -- the waters surrounding Molokini is an example), Fishery Management Areas (where what you can take from the ocean is restricted), Fishery Replenishment Areas, and Estuarine Reserves. On land, there are corresponding programs to protect the environment, from the Soil and Water Conservation District to Watershed Reserves.

In the visitor industry, the majority of hotels have adopted green practices, not only to save the environment, but also to save them money. Nearly every hotel in the state will have a card in your room asking you to really consider if you need a new towel or if you can hang it up and use it one more day. Various statewide organizations have numerous programs recognizing hotels that are helping the environment, such as the Green Business Awards Program, which recently awarded Ritz-Carlton Kapalua for its use of core-less toilet paper rolls in bathrooms, the elimination of plastic ware in dining areas, the installation of sustainable bamboo floors in select facilities, and for offering sustainable dining featuring organic heirloom herbs and vegetables as well as local exotic fruit. The hotel also runs a Jacques Cousteau Ambassadors of the Environment program, which teaches guests about natural tide pools, the rainforest, humpback whales, and local ecosystems through interactive activities with trained naturalists. Another Maui hotel, the Fairmont Kea Lani, also was recognized in 2010 for its green practices, specifically for its "Recycling Cents Program," which donates money from recyclables to local charities raising some $20,000 in 2010; an improved laundry water recycling system, which has saved over 50 million gallons of water since installation in 2005; the use of automatic eco-MODE thermostats reducing air conditioning costs by 20%, biodegradable food containers, and rock salt treating systems in pools; and for serving sustainable cuisine in its restaurants.

Every island has recycling centers (varying from collection of recyclable bottles only to places that take everything); for a list of recycling centers close to where you will be staying, visit the website of the Hawaii State Department of Health (http://hi5deposit.com/redcenters.html).

Restaurants across Maui, including Market Fresh Bistro in Makawao; Merriman's in Kapalua; I'O, Pacific'O, Mala Ocean Tavern, and David Paul's in Lahaina; and Beverly Gannon's, Joe's, and Mala Wailea in Wailea, are using more local products and produce than ever. Many proudly tell you that all of their products were grown, grazed, or caught within 100 miles of their restaurant. You can support this effort by ordering local (drink Kona coffee, not a coffee from Central America; eat local fish, not imported seafood). Ask the restaurant which items on its menu are grown or raised on the island, then order the local items.

Below are some helpful hints travelers to Hawaii might want to keep in mind during their adventure to the islands, so that their ecological footprint on Hawaii will be minimal.

What Visitors Can Do In & Around the Ocean

1. Do not touch anything in the ocean. In fact, unless you are standing on the sandy bottom where the waves roll into shore, try not to walk or stand on the ocean floor. The no-touch rule of thumb is not only for your protection -- there are plenty of stinging, stabbing things out there that could turn your vacation into a nightmare -- but also for the protection of the marine environment. Coral is composed of living things, which take years to grow, and a careless brush of your hand or foot could destroy them. Fragile habitats for marine critters can be damaged forever by your heavy foot.

2. Do not feed the fish, or any other marine creature. They have their own food and diet, and they can be irreparably harmed by your good intentions if you feed them "people food" or, even worse, some "fish food" you have purchased.

3. Leave the ocean and beach area cleaner than you found it. If you see trash in the ocean (plastic bags, bottles, and so on) remove it. You may save the life of a fish, turtle, marine mammal, or even a seabird by removing that trash, which kills hundreds of marine inhabitants every year. The same thing is true of the beach: Pick up trash, even if it's not yours.

4. The beach is not an ashtray. Do not use the sand for your cigarette butts. How would you like someone using your living room carpet as his ashtray?

5. Look at, but don't approach, turtles or Hawaiian monk seals resting on the shoreline. The good news is that the number of turtles and Hawaiian monk seals is increasing. Visitors may not know it, but both are protected by law. You must stay 100 feet away from them. So take photos, but do not attempt to get close to the resting sea creatures (and no, they are not dead or injured, just resting).

6. If you plan to go fishing, practice catch and release. Let the fish live another day. Ask your charter boat captain if they practice catch and release; if they say no, book with someone else.

7. If you are environmentally conscious, I do not recommend that you rent jet skis because they have a significant environmental impact.

What Visitors Can Do on Land

1. Don't litter (this includes throwing a cigarette butt out of your car).

2. Before you go hiking, scrub your hiking shoes (especially the soles) to get rid of seeds and soil.

3. When hiking, carry a garbage bag so you can carry out everything you carried in, including your litter (and if you see other garbage on the trail, carry it out, too).

4. Stay on the trail. Wandering off a trail is not only dangerous to you (you can get lost, fall off overgrown cliffs, or get injured by stepping into a hidden hole), but you could possibly carry invasive species into the native forests.

5. Do not pick flowers or plants along your hike. Just leave the environment the way you found it.

Transportation Concerns

Rental Cars -- Most visitors coming to Hawaii seem to think "convertible" when they think of renting a car, or they think "SUV" for off-road adventures. If you're thinking "hybrid," you'll have to check your budget, because hybrids from car-rental agencies are not only hard to find, but also extremely expensive in Hawaii. Car-rental agencies do have a variety of cars to rent, though, and you can make a point of selecting a car which get the best gas mileage. Also, ask for a white car, as they use less energy to air-condition that a dark-colored car.

Interisland Transportation -- Now that the interisland ferry, Superferry, has declared bankruptcy, the only option for interisland travel between most islands is via air. There are two exceptions, however. If you're traveling between Maui and Lanai, you may want to consider taking the passenger-only Expeditions Maui-Lanai Passenger Ferry (Commonly referred to as the Lanai Ferry.) If you're traveling between Maui and Molokai, you can take the passenger-only Molokai Princess. Not only are these ferries cheaper than air travel, but their impact on the environment is also less, especially when you consider that most airlines will route you from Maui to Honolulu, then from Honolulu on to either Molokai or Lanai.

General Resources for Green travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit Frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

• Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings.

• Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.com) identifies sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also visit www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.

• Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org) provides information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, and the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org) offers information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins.

Getting There

By Plane

If you think of the island of Maui as the shape of a head and shoulders of a person, you'll probably arrive at its neck, at Kahului Airport (OGG). If you're headed for Molokai or Lanai, you'll have to connect through Honolulu.

As of press time, the following airlines fly directly from the U.S. mainland to Kahului: United Airlines offers daily nonstop flights from San Francisco and Los Angeles; Hawaiian Airlines has flights from San Diego, Portland, and Seattle; Alaska Airlines offers flights from Anchorage to Seattle to Kahului; American Airlines flies from Los Angeles and San Jose; Northwest Airlines flies from Oakland, California; and Delta Air Lines offers flights from San Francisco via Los Angeles.

Other carriers fly to Honolulu, where you'll have to pick up an interisland flight to Maui. (The airlines listed in the preceding paragraph also offer many more flights to Honolulu from additional cities on the mainland.) Hawaiian Airlines offers jet service from Honolulu.

Commuter service Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com; 📞 866/260-7070) flies from Honolulu to Kahului and Maui’s two other, significantly smaller airports. If you’re staying in Lahaina or Kaanapali, you might consider flying in or out of Kapalua–West Maui Airport (JHM). From this tiny airstrip, it’s only a 10- to 15-minute drive to most hotels in West Maui, as opposed to an hour or more from Kahului. Same story with Hana Airport (HNM): Flying directly here will save you a challenging 3- hour drive. However, rental-car pickup at either Kapalua or Hana airports is very limited.

From Kahului, Mokulele also flies several times a day to Molokai and to two airports on the Big Island: the small commuter airfield at Kamuela (MUE) and the much busier Kona, near the main resorts. Mokulele also offers charter flights to Lanai. Check-in is a breeze: no security lines (unless leaving from Honolulu). You’ll be weighed, ushered onto the tarmac, and welcomed aboard a nine-seat Cessna. The plane flies low, and the views between the islands are outstanding.

If you want to continue your travels in the Pacific or Asia, the short hop to Honolulu will connect you to nonstop flights to Japan, South Korea, China, the Philippines, Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, Samoa, or Tahiti.

Arriving at the Airport

If there's a long wait at baggage claim, step over to the state-operated Visitor Information Center, where you can ask about island activities and pick up brochures and the latest issue of This Week Maui, which features great regional maps of the islands. After collecting your bags from the poky, automated carousels, take a deep breath, proceed to the curbside rental-car pickup area, and wait for the appropriate rental-agency shuttle van to take you a half mile away to the rental-car checkout desk. (All major rental companies have branches at Kahului.)

If you're not renting a car, the cheapest way to get to your hotel is via SpeediShuttle (tel. 877/242-5777; www.speedishuttle.com), which can take you between Kahului Airport and all the major resorts between 6am and 11pm daily. You'll see taxis outside the airport terminal, but note that they are quite expensive -- expect to spend around $85 for a ride from Kahului to Kaanapali and $60 to Wailea.

Taxis usually cost 30% more than the shuttles—except when you’re traveling with a large party, in which case they’re a deal. West Maui Taxi (www.westmauitaxi.com; 📞 888/661-4545), for example, will drive up to six people from Kahului Airport to Kaanapali for $80. Note: Ride-sharing services Lyft and Uber are now authorized to make airport pickups and dropoffs at an area that had yet to be designated at press time.

If possible, avoid landing on Maui between 3 and 6pm, when the working stiffs on Maui are "pau work" (finished with work) and a major traffic jam occurs at the first intersection getting out of the airport.

Agricultural Screening at the Airports -- When you leave, baggage and passengers bound for the mainland must be screened by agricultural officials. Officials will confiscate local produce, like avocados, bananas, and mangoes, in the name of fruit-fly control. Pineapples, coconuts, and papayas inspected and certified for export; boxed flowers; leis without seeds; and processed foods (macadamia nuts, coffee, jams, dried fruit, and the like) will pass. You'll need to pack jams or honey in checked bags if they exceed 3 ounces, or wait to buy them at a post-security gift shop.

Interisland Flights

If you must go through Honolulu, you will need to get an interisland flight to Maui. Since the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks the major interisland carriers have cut way back on the number of interisland flights. The airlines warn you to show up at least 90 minutes before your flight, and believe me, with all the security inspections, you will need all 90 minutes to catch your flight.

Hawaii has two major interisland carriers: Hawaiian Airlines (tel. 800/367-5320; www.hawaiianair.com) and go! (tel. 888/I-FLY-GO-2 [435-9462]; www.iflygo.com).

Visitors to Molokai and Lanai have three commuter airlines to choose from: Island Air (tel. 800/323-3345; www.islandair.com), tel. 888/I-FLY-GO-2 [435-9462] (www.iflygo.com), and PW Express (tel. 888/866-5022 or 808/873-0877; www.pacificwings.com) which all serve Hawaii's small interisland airports on Maui, Molokai, and Lanai. However, I have to warn you that I have not had stellar service on Island Air and recommend that you book another carrier.

Some large airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, and cheapest way to see the country.

Cruising Through the Islands

If you're looking for a taste of several islands in a single week, consider Norwegian Cruise Line (tel. 800/327-7030; www.ncl.com), the only cruise line that operates year-round in Hawaii. Norwegian's 2,240-passenger ship Pride of America circles the Hawaiian Islands, stopping on the Big Island, Maui, Kauai, and Oahu; some itineraries even go to Fanning Island in the Republic of Kiribati before returning to Honolulu. The disadvantage of a cruise is that you won't be able to see any of the islands in-depth or at leisure; the advantage is that you can spend your days exploring the island where the ship is docked and your nights aboard ship sailing to the next port of call.

When to Go

Most visitors don't come to Maui when the weather's best on the island; rather, they come when the weather is at its worst everywhere else. Thus, the high season—when prices are up and resorts are often booked to capacity—is generally from mid-December through March or mid-April. The last two weeks of December, in particular, are the prime time for travel to Hawaii. If you're planning a holiday trip, make your reservations as early as possible, expect crowds, and prepare to pay top dollar for accommodations, car rentals, and airfare.

The off-season, when the best rates are available and the islands are less crowded, is spring (mid-April to mid-June) and fall (September to mid-December)—a paradox because these are the best seasons to be in Hawaii if you're looking for reliably great weather. To save money or if you just want to avoid crowds, this is the time to visit. Hotel rates and airfares tend to be significantly lower, and good packages are often available.

Note: If you plan to come to Maui between the last week in April and early May, be sure you book your accommodations, interisland air reservations, and car rentals in advance. In Japan, the last week of April is called Golden Week because three Japanese holidays take place one after the other, and many travelers from that nation head to Hawaii.

Due to the large number of families traveling in summer (June–August), you won't get the fantastic bargains of spring and fall. However, you'll still do much better on packages, airfare, and accommodations than you will in the winter months.

Climate

Because Hawaii lies at the edge of the tropical zone, it technically has only two seasons, both of them warm. There's a dry season that corresponds to summer (April–October) and a rainy season in winter (November–March). It rains every day somewhere in the islands any time of the year, but the rainy season sometimes brings enough gray weather to spoil your sunbathing opportunities. Fortunately, it seldom rains in one spot for more than 3 days straight.

The year-round temperature doesn't vary much. At the beach, the average daytime high in summer is 85°F (29°C), while the average daytime high in winter is 78°F (26°C); nighttime lows are usually about 10 degrees cooler. But how warm it is on any given day really depends on where you are on the island.

Each island has a leeward side (the side sheltered from the wind) and a windward side (the side that gets the wind's full force). The leeward sides (the west and south) are usually hot and dry, while the windward sides (east and north) are generally cooler and moist. When you want arid, sunbaked, desertlike weather, go leeward. When you want lush, wet, junglelike weather, go windward.

Maui is also full of microclimates, thanks to its interior valleys, coastal plains, and mountain peaks. It can be hot, dry, and sunny on the island's leeward side in Lahaina and Kihei, but it's downright chilly at 3,000 feet and above in the upcountry region of Kula—there is snow on top of 10,000-foot Haleakala. On the windward side, an abundance of rain is what makes Kahului, Haiku, and Hana so verdant. If the weather doesn't suit you where you are, just head to the other side of the island or into the hills.

On rare occasions, the weather can be disastrous, as when Hurricane Iniki crushed Kauai in September 1992 with 225-mph winds. Tsunamis have swept Hilo and the south shore of Oahu. But those are extreme exceptions. Mostly, one day follows another here in glorious, sunny procession, each quite like the other.

Holidays

When Hawaii observes holidays (especially those over a long weekend), travel between the islands increases, interisland airline seats are fully booked, rental cars are at a premium, and hotels and restaurants are busier.

Federal, state, and county government offices are closed on all federal holidays.

State and county offices are also closed on local holidays, including Prince Kuhio Day (March 26), honoring the birthday of Hawaii's first delegate to the U.S. Congress; King Kamehameha Day (June 11), a statewide holiday commemorating Kamehameha the Great, who united the islands and ruled from 1795 to 1819; and Admission Day (third Friday in August), which honors the admittance of Hawaii as the 50th state on August 21, 1959.

Other special days celebrated in Hawaii by many people but that involve no closing of federal, state, and county offices are the Lunar New Year (which can fall in January or February), Girls' Day (March 3), Buddha's Birthday (April 8), Father Damien's Day (April 15), Boys' Day (May 5), Samoan Flag Day (in August), Aloha Festivals (September–October), and Pearl Harbor Day (December 7).

Daylight Saving Time

Most of the United States observes daylight saving time, which lasts from 2am on the second Sunday in March to 2am on the first Sunday in November. However, Hawaii does not observe daylight saving time. When daylight saving time is in effect in most of the U.S., Hawaii is 3 hours behind the West Coast and 6 hours behind the East Coast. When the U.S. reverts to standard time in November, Hawaii is 2 hours behind the West Coast and 5 hours behind the East Coast.

Getting Around

By Car—The simplest way to see Maui is by rental car; public transit is still in its infancy here. All of the major car-rental firms—including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, and Thrifty—have agencies on Maui. If you’re on a budget or traveling with sports gear, you can rent an older vehicle by the week from Aloha Rent-a-Car (www.aloharentacar.com; 888/4562-5642 or 808/877-4477). For tips on insurance and driving rules in Hawaii, see “Getting Around Hawaii”.

Maui has only a handful of major roads, and you can expect a traffic jam or two heading into Kihei, Lahaina, or Paia. In general, the roads hug the coastlines; one zigzags up to Haleakala’s summit. When asking locals for directions don’t bother using highway numbers; residents know the routes by name only.

Traffic advisory: Be alert on the Honoapiilani Highway (Hwy. 30) en route to Lahaina. Drivers ogling whales in the channel between Maui and Lanai often slam on the brakes and cause major tie-ups and accidents. This is the main road connecting the west side to the rest of the island; if an accident, rockslide, flooding, or other road hazard occurs, traffic can back up for 1 to 8 hours (no joke). So before you set off, check with Maui County for road closure advisories (www.co.maui.hi.us; 808/986-1200). The most up-to-date info can be found on its Twitter feed (@CountyofMaui) or that of a local news agency (@MauiNow).

By Motorcycle—Feel the wind on your face and smell the salt air as you tour the island on a Harley, available for rent from Maui Motorcyle Co., 150 Dairy Rd., Kahului (www.mauimotorcycleco.com; 808/877-7433); rentals start at $139 a day.

By Taxi—Because Maui’s various destinations are so spread out, taxi service can be quite expensive and should be limited to travel within a neighborhood. West Maui Taxi (www.westmauitaxi.com; 888/661-4545) offers 24-hour service island-wide while Kihei Wailea Taxi (808/879-3000) serves South Maui. The metered rate is $3 per mile.

By Bus—The Maui Bus (www.mauicounty.gov/bus; 808/871-4838) is a public/private partnership that provides affordable but sadly inconsistent public transit to various communities across the island. Expect hour waits between rides. Air-conditioned buses service 13 routes, including several that stop at the airport. All routes operate daily, including holidays. Suitcases (one per passenger) and bikes are allowed; surfboards are not. Fares are $2.

Gasoline - Gas prices in Hawaii, always much higher than on the U.S. mainland, vary from island to island. At this writing, average prices for regular gas in Maui are about $4.49 per gallon (except in Hana, where gas is around $5). On Molokai gas is $5.19 and on Lanai gas is $5.49. Note: Taxes are already included in the printed price. Check www.gasbuddy.com to find the cheapest gas in your area.

Insurance - Hawaii is a no-fault state, which means that if you don’t have collision-damage insurance, you are required to pay for all damages before you leave the state, whether or not the accident was your fault. Your personal car insurance may provide rental-car coverage; check before you leave home. You may want to bring your insurance identification card if you decline the optional loss and/or liability insurance, which can add $30 a day or more to your bill. Some credit card companies also provide collision-damage insurance for their customers; check with yours before you rent.

Driving Rules - Hawaii state law mandates that all car passengers must wear a seat belt, and all infants must be strapped into a car seat. You’ll pay a $102 fine if you don’t buckle up. Pedestrians always have the right of way, even if they’re not in the crosswalk. You can turn right on red after a full and complete stop, unless otherwise posted.

Road Maps - The best and most detailed maps for activities are published by Franko Maps (www.frankosmaps.com), which feature a host of island maps plus a terrific “reef creatures” guide for snorkelers curious about the fish they spot underwater. Rental car companies offer island guides with free road maps, as does the free, widely distributed This Week Magazine (www.thisweekhawaii.com/maui). Be aware that limited or no cell service in remote areas can prevent access to online maps—although it’s hard to get lost on an island with relatively few roads.

University of Hawaii Press maps for Maui, Molokai, and Lanai include a detailed network of island roads, large-scale insets of towns, historical and contemporary points of interest, parks, beaches, and hiking trails. If you can’t find them in a bookstore near you, contact University of Hawaii Press (www.uhpress.hawaii.edu; 📞 888/UHPRESS [847-7377]). For topographic and other maps of the islands, go to the Hawaii Geographic Society (https://hawaii-geographic-society.business.site; 📞 808/782-3562).

Health & Safety

Hiking Safety

Hikers should always let someone know where they're heading, when they're going, and when they plan to return; too many hikers get lost in Hawaii because they don't let others know their basic plans. And make sure you know how strenuous the route and trail you will follow are -- don't overestimate your ability.

Before you head out, always check weather conditions with the toll-free National Weather Service (tel. 866/944-5025) on Maui. Do not hike if rain or a storm is predicted; flash floods are common in Hawaii. Hike with a pal, never alone. Plan to finish your hike at least an hour before sunset; because Hawaii is so close to the equator, it does not have a twilight period, and thus it gets dark quickly after the sun sets. Wear hiking boots, a sun hat, clothes to protect you from the sun and from getting scratches, and high-SPF sunscreen on all exposed areas of skin. Take plenty of water, a basic first aid kit, a snack, and a bag to pack out what you pack in. Stay on the trail. Watch your step. It's easy to slip off precipitous trails and into steep canyons. Many experienced hikers and boaters today pack a cellphone in case of emergency; just dial tel. 911.

Vog -- The volcanic haze dubbed vog is caused by gases released when molten lava -- from the continuous eruption of Kilauea volcano on the Big Island -- pours into the ocean. When the winds shift, vog travels over to Maui. Some people claim that long-term exposure to the hazy, smoglike air causes bronchial ailments, but it's highly unlikely to cause you any harm in the course of your visit.

Don't Get Burned: Smart Tanning Tips -- Hawaii's Caucasian population has the highest incidence of malignant melanoma (deadly skin cancer) in the world. And nobody is completely safe from the sun's harmful rays: All skin types and races can burn. To ensure that your vacation won't be ruined by a painful sunburn, be sure to wear a strong sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays at all times (look for zinc oxide, benzophenone, oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, titanium dioxide, or avobenzone in the list of ingredients). Wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses. Keep infants under 6 months out of the sun completely, and slather older babies and children with strong sunscreen frequently.

If you do get a burn, aloe vera, cool compresses, cold baths, and benzocaine can help with the pain. Stay out of the sun until the burn is completely gone.

Ocean Safety

Because most people coming to Hawaii are unfamiliar with the ocean environment, they're often unaware of the natural hazards it holds. With just a few precautions, your ocean experience can be a safe and happy one. An excellent book is All Stings Considered: First Aid and Medical Treatment of Hawaii's Marine Injuries, by Craig Thomas and Susan Scott (University of Hawaii Press, 1997).

Note: Sharks are not a big problem in Hawaii; in fact, they appear so infrequently that locals look forward to seeing them. Since records have been kept, starting in 1779, there have been only about 100 shark attacks in Hawaii, of which 40% were fatal. Most attacks occurred after someone fell into the ocean from the shore or from a boat; in these cases, the sharks probably attacked after the person was dead. Here are the general rules for avoiding sharks: Don't swim at sunrise, at sunset, or where the water is murky due to stream runoff -- sharks may mistake you for one of their usual meals. And don't swim where there are bloody fish in the water, as sharks become aggressive around blood.

The waters in Hawaii can range from as calm as glass to downright frightening (during storms); conditions usually fall somewhere in between. In general, expect rougher conditions in winter than in summer. Some 90% of the world's population tends toward seasickness. If you've never been out on a boat, or if you've been seasick in the past, you might want to heed the following suggestions:

• The day before you go out on a boat avoid alcohol; caffeine; citrus and other acidic juices; and greasy, spicy, or hard-to-digest foods.
• Get a good night's sleep the night before.
• Take or use whatever seasickness prevention works best for you -- medication, an acupressure wristband, ginger-root tea or capsules, or any combination. But do it before you board; once you set sail, it's generally too late.
• While you're on the boat, stay as low and as near the center of the boat as possible. Avoid the fumes (especially if it's a diesel boat); stay out in the fresh air and watch the horizon. Do not read.
• If you start to feel queasy, drink clear fluids, like water, and eat something bland, such as a soda cracker.

The most common stings in Hawaii come from jellyfish, particularly Portuguese man-of-war and box jellyfish. Since the poisons they inject are very different, you need to treat each type of sting differently.

A bluish-purple floating bubble with a long tail, the Portuguese man-of-war is responsible for some 6,500 stings a year on Oahu alone. These stings, although painful and a nuisance, are rarely harmful; fewer than 1 in 1,000 requires medical treatment. The best prevention is to watch for these floating bubbles as you snorkel (look for the hanging tentacles below the surface). Get out of the water if anyone near you spots these jellyfish.

Reactions to stings range from mild burning and reddening to severe welts and blisters. All Stings Considered recommends the following treatment: First, pick off any visible tentacles with a gloved hand, a stick, or anything handy; then rinse the sting with salt- or freshwater and apply ice to prevent swelling and to help control pain. Avoid folk remedies like vinegar, baking soda, or urinating on the wound, which may actually cause further damage. Most Portuguese man-of-war stings will disappear by themselves within 15 to 20 minutes if you do nothing at all to treat them. Still, be sure to see a doctor if pain persists or a rash or other symptoms develop.

Transparent, square-shaped box jellyfish are nearly impossible to see in the water. Fortunately, they seem to follow a monthly cycle: Eight to 10 days after the full moon, they appear in the waters on the leeward side of each island and hang around for about 3 days. Also, they seem to sting more in the morning hours, when they're on or near the surface.

The stings can cause anything from no visible marks to hivelike welts, blisters, and pain lasting from 10 minutes to 8 hours. All Stings Considered recommends the following treatment: First, pour regular household vinegar on the sting; this will stop additional burning. Do not rub the area. For pain, apply an ice pack. Seek additional medical treatment if you experience shortness of breath, weakness, palpitations, muscle cramps, or any other severe symptoms. Most box-jellyfish stings disappear by themselves without any treatment.

A new product, just on the market is Jellyfish Squish, made by Coastal Solutions (tel. 912/353-3368; www.swimoutlet.com/Jellyfish-Squish). It has been getting rave reviews from ocean enthusiasts. It takes away the sting quickly. Best to order it online before you get to Hawaii. Most sea-related punctures come from stepping on or brushing against the needlelike spines of sea urchins (known locally as wana). Be careful when you're in the water; don't put your foot down (even if you have booties or fins on) if you can't clearly see the bottom. Waves can push you into wana in a surge zone in shallow water. The spines can even puncture a wet suit.

A sea urchin puncture can result in burning, aching, swelling, and discoloration (black or purple) around the area where the spines entered your skin. The best thing to do is to pull any protruding spines out. The body will absorb the spines within 24 hours to 3 weeks, or the remainder of the spines will work themselves out. Again, contrary to popular wisdom, do not urinate or pour vinegar on the embedded spines -- this will not help.

All cuts obtained in the marine environment must be taken seriously because the high level of bacteria present in the water can quickly cause the cut to become infected. The best way to prevent cuts is to wear a wet suit, gloves, and reef shoes. Never touch coral; not only can you get cut, but you also can damage a living organism that took decades to grow.

The symptoms of a coral cut can range from a slight scratch to severe welts and blisters. All Stings Considered recommends gently pulling the edges of the skin open and removing any embedded coral or grains of sand with tweezers. Next, scrub the cut well with freshwater. If pressing a clean cloth against the wound doesn't stop the bleeding, or the edges of the injury are jagged or gaping, seek medical treatment.

Everything You've Always Wanted to Know About Sharks -- The Hawaii State Department of Land and Natural Resources offers a website, www.hawaiisharks.com, that covers the biology, history, and culture of these carnivores. It also provides safety information and data on shark bites in Hawaii.

Enjoying the Ocean & Avoiding Mishaps -- The Pacific Whale Foundation has a free brochure called Enjoying Maui's Unique Ocean Environment that introduces visitors to Hawaii's ocean, beaches, tide pools, and reefs. Although written for Maui (with maps showing Maui's beaches), it's a great general resource on how to stay safe around the ocean, with hints on how to assess the weather before you jump into the water and the best ways to view marine wildlife. To get the brochure, call tel. 808/244-8390 or visit www.pacificwhale.org.

General Safety

Although tourist areas are generally safe, visitors should always stay alert, even in laid-back Maui (and especially in resort and beach areas). It's wise to ask the island tourist office if you're in doubt about which neighborhoods are safe. Avoid deserted areas, especially at night. Don't go into any city park at night unless there's an event that attracts a crowd. Generally speaking, you can feel safe in areas where there are many people and open establishments.

Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street, and don't display expensive cameras or electronic equipment. Hold on to your pocketbook, and place your billfold in an inside pocket. In theaters, restaurants, and other public places, keep your possessions in sight.

Remember also that hotels are open to the public and that at a large property, security may not be able to screen everyone entering. Always lock your room door -- don't assume that once inside your hotel, you're automatically safe.

Recently, burglaries of tourists' rental cars in hotel parking structures and at beach parking lots have become more common. Park in well-lighted and well-traveled areas, if possible. Never leave any packages or valuables visible in the car. If someone attempts to rob you or steal your car, do not try to resist the thief or carjacker -- report the incident to the police department immediately. Ask your rental agency about personal safety, and get written directions or a map with the route to your destination clearly marked.

Generally, Hawaii has the same laws as the mainland United States. Nudity is illegal in Hawaii. There are no legal nude beaches (I don't care what you have read). If you are nude on a beach (or anywhere) in Hawaii, you can be arrested.

Smoking marijuana also is illegal. Yes, there are lots of stories claiming that marijuana is grown in Hawaii, but the drug is illegal; if you attempt to buy it or light up, you can be arrested.

Special-Interest Vacations

Volunteering on Vacation

If you are looking for a different type of experience during your next vacation to Hawaii, you might want to consider becoming a volunteer and leaving the islands a little nicer than when you arrived. People interested in volunteering at beach and ocean cleanups can contact the University of Hawaii Sea Grant College Program (tel. 808/397-2651, ext. 256) or Hawaii Wildlife Fund (www.wildhawaii.org). For ecovolunteering on land, contact Malama Hawaii (www.malamahawaii.org/get_involved/volunteer.php), a statewide organization dedicated to malama (taking care) of the culture and environment of Hawaii. With Malama Hawaii you will find a range of opportunities on various islands, such as weeding gardens and potting plants in botanical gardens, restoring taro patches, cleaning up mountain streams, bird-watching, and even hanging out at Waikiki Beach helping with a reef project.

Getting Married

The silky warm weather, the starry nights, the gentle trade winds caressing your skin -- Maui is so romantic. That's probably why thousands of people get married on the island. Plus, after the ceremony, you're already on your honeymoon. And the members of your wedding party will most likely be delighted, since you've given them the perfect excuse for their own island vacation.

More than 20,000 marriages are performed annually on the islands; nearly half are for couples from somewhere else. The booming wedding business has spawned more than 70 companies that can help you organize a long-distance event and stage an unforgettable wedding, Hawaiian style or your style. However, you can also plan your own island wedding, even from afar, and not spend a fortune doing it.

The Paperwork

The state of Hawaii has some very minimal procedures for obtaining a marriage license. The first thing you should do is contact the Marriage License Office, State Department of Health Bldg., 54 S. High St., Wailuku, HI 96793 (tel. 808/984-8210; www.state.hi.us/doh/records/vr_marri.html), which is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 4pm. The office will no longer mail you the brochure Getting Married; you can download it from the website or contact a marriage-licensing agent closest to where you'll be staying in Hawaii (also listed on the website).

Once on Maui, the prospective bride and groom must go together to the marriage-licensing agent to get the license, which costs $60 and is good for 30 days. Both parties must be 15 years of age or older (anyone 15-17 years old must have proof of age, written consent of both parents, and written approval of the judge of the family court) and not more closely related than first cousins. That's it.

Gay couples cannot marry in Hawaii. After a protracted legal battle and much discussion in the state legislature, the Hawaii Supreme Court ruled that the state will not issue marriage licenses to same-sex couples.

Doing It Yourself

The marriage-licensing agents, who range from employees of the governor's satellite office in Kona to private individuals, are usually friendly, helpful people who can steer you to a nondenominational minister or marriage performer who's licensed by the state of Hawaii. These marriage performers are great sources of information for budget weddings. They usually know wonderful places to have a ceremony for free or for a nominal fee. For the names and addresses of marriage-licensing agents on Maui and Lanai, call tel. 808/984-8210; on Molokai, call tel. 808/553-3663.

If you don't want to use a wedding planner, but you do want to make arrangements before you arrive on Maui, my best advice is to get a copy of the daily newspaper, the Maui News, PO Box 550, Wailuku, HI 96793 (tel. 808/244-7691; www.mauinews.com). People willing and qualified to conduct weddings advertise in the classifieds. They're great sources of information, as they know the best places to have the ceremony and can recommend caterers, florists, and everything else you'll need.

Using a Wedding Planner

Wedding planners -- many of whom are marriage-licensing agents as well -- can arrange everything for you, from a small, private outdoor affair to a full-blown formal ceremony in a tropical setting. They charge anywhere from $150 to a small fortune -- it all depends on what you want.

Planners on Maui include First Class Weddings (tel. 800/262-8433 or 808/877-1411; www.firstclassweddings.com), A Dream Wedding: Maui Style (tel. 800/743-2777 or 808/661-1777; fax 808/667-2042; www.adreamwedding.net), Romantic Maui Weddings (tel. 800/808-4144 or 808/874-6444; fax 808/879-5525; www.justmauied.com), and Dolphin Dream Weddings (tel. 800/793-2-WED [793-2933] or 808/661-8535; www.dolphindreamweddings.com). For a more complete list, contact the Maui Visitors and Convention Bureau (tel. 800/525-MAUI [6284]; www.visitmaui.com). Many of the big resorts have their own coordinators on staff as well.

Tips for Families

Maui is paradise for children: beaches to run on, water to splash in, and unusual sights to see. Look for Frommer's Hawaii with Kids (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).

The larger hotels and resorts offer supervised programs for children and can refer you to qualified babysitters. By state law, hotels can only accept children ages 5 to 12 in supervised activities programs, but they often accommodate younger kids by simply hiring babysitters to watch over them. You can also contact People Attentive to Children (PATCH), which can refer you to babysitters who have taken a training course on child care. On Maui, call tel. 808/242-9232; on Molokai and Lanai, call tel. 800/498-4145; or visit www.patchhawaii.org.

Baby's Away (tel. 800/942-9030 or 808/344-2219; www.babysaway.com) rents cribs, strollers, highchairs, playpens, and infant seats. The staff will deliver whatever you need to wherever you're staying and pick it up when you're done.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least three days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to two years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a $14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or 866/382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16, payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Customs

For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

You cannot take home fresh fruit, plants, or seeds (including some leis) unless they are sealed. You cannot seal and pack them yourself.

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs and Border Protection, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.customs.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Revenue & Customs (tel. 0845/010-9000 or 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs and Border Protection Service (tel. 1300/363-263; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs Service (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.