Contraste is one surprise after another, starting when you arrive outside—the only indication that there’s a restaurant here is a small gold sign on the wall, next to what seems to be a residential gate. Once you’re inside, however, this Michelin-starred restaurant offers “wow factor” for both the eyes and the taste buds, serving innovative, playful dishes in an intimate, all-white space. Various tasting menus offer intriguing specialties such as a “donut” alla Bolognese (actually a circular lasagna with a hole), crème brûlée with foie gras, and gnocchi with smoked eel and burrata cheese. Yet one of the many “contrasts” here is that, much as at a neighborhood trattoria, you can tell the wait staff what you’re in the mood for, and the kitchen may just make it for you—one of the restaurant’s mottos is “less menu.”