Things To Do in Mombasa

Frankly, there isn't all that much to see in Mombasa. If you're into old architecture, focus on seeing the famed Fort Jesus, and then spend time wandering through the narrow and sociable streets of Old Town, the perfect place to get a feel for the social glue holding this neighborhood together.

Mombasa Island & Old Town

Most visitors might spend some time strolling down Moi Avenue. The colonial-era Castle Royal Hotel here has a veranda that's still a popular spot for a drink, and everyone seems interested in the so-called Tusks Monument, elephant tusk-shape archways incongruously perched above the street in tribute to Princess Elizabeth for her visit here in 1952. Today the tusks have become a symbol of the city, but they're really of zero interest. A short stroll through Mombasa will give you some idea of the intermingling cultural layers. The gigantic ocher walls of Fort Jesus constitute the main tourist attraction, but unless you have a particular interest, there's every likelihood this will be a massive disappointment -- the exterior really trumps what you get to see on the inside and, frankly, the history far outweighs its stature as a modest museum today. Still, the fort is not without its fair share of disturbing ghost stories, and given the decimation of human life that has gone on within and around its walls, you should probably make a point of asking your guide to share some of the more blood-curdling reports. But really, the best part of a visit to Mombasa is the chance to explore the narrow, convoluted streets of its Old Town, with its mélange of Arab, British, and Indian architectural influences. Passing beneath the overhanging timber balconies and admiring the carved doors, it's a good place -- although a little tacky and rundown in parts -- to experience the ebb and flow of Swahili-Arab culture. There are more than 20 mosques in this compact area, muddled together among the vibrant bazaars, antiques stores, ice cream parlors, car-repair workshops, and hole-in-the-wall food vendors. Interest in preserving and restoring some of the older buildings has come rather late, and there's little sign of the type of gentrification you'll see in fashionably redeveloping Lamu.

While wandering through the old streets, be sure to stop for an ice cream or fruit juice. There are a number of parlors dispensing delicious freshly squeezed concoctions (the most brilliant of which is Equatorial Fruit Parlour; see the section "Avocado with a Straw", on the "Restaurants" page)

Greater Mombasa

To coincide with the resort frenzy that stretches along the mainland on Mombasa's north coast, there are a number of touristy spots offering distractions that vary from downright tacky to just plain weird. Frankly, I'd skip most of them in favor of one of the crafts workshops, such as Bombolulu, 4km (2 1/2 miles) north of Nyali Bridge (tel. 041/47-1704, 073/381-1603, or 072/356-0933; www.apdkbombolulu.com), where you might pick up one or two interesting souvenirs. Founded in 1969, Bombolulu is a cultural center where handicrafts -- from jewelry to screenprinted kikois to carvings -- are produced by more than 150 people with disabilities who work here. Ngomongo Cultural Village, Shanzu (tel. 041/548-7063 or 072/494-2395; www.ngomongo.com), is a slightly gimmicky cultural diversion where around 10 tribal groups are represented in a sort of African multi-ethnic Disneyland. There are living members of the represented tribes demonstrating aspects of their daily life; examples of their huts, cultivated crops, and domestic and wild animals (for the El Molo man from Lake Turkana, there are even crocodiles) are on display, and there's even a village witch doctor.

If you'd prefer to see a more restrained side of Swahili culture -- particularly if you're not going to make it up to Malindi to see Gede -- then you might want to visit Jumba la Mtwana, the sedate-looking ruins of a town otherwise known as the "Large House of the Slave" (www.museums.org.ke). The site is situated some 15km (9 1/4 miles) north of Mombasa on and above the beach, about 1km (1/2 miles) from the mouth of Mtwapa Creek. Still in recognizable condition are a tomb, four houses, and four mosques, including the Great Mosque. Excavated ceramics found here suggest that the town was established in the 14th century and abandoned soon afterward.