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Things To Do in Nantes

Nantes Attractions

Nantes might not be on the sea, but it’s still highly connected to water with its two rivers: the Loire and the Erdre. You can hop on the Loire’s Navibus public watertaxi and in 15 min. you disembark at the charming former fishing village of Trentemoult. You wouldn’t know you were in the Nantes suburbs while strolling its narrow lanes lined with colorful three-story houses, artist studios, and secret gardens. On your way back, grab a coffee at one of the cafes by the ferry dock. The small ferries depart regularly from the Nantes Gare Maritime on the Quai de la Fosse; the journey goes for a regular bus/tram ticket.

The Erdre River, deemed by King François I as "the most beautiful river of France,” empties into the Loire, hidden underground through downtown, but it pops above not far from la Tour de Bretagne. A visit to its Ile de Versailles offers various pleasures, namely its tranquil Japanese garden. In summer, you can rent small boats from its tip. Or better yet, take a leisure cruise along the Erdre to admire its beautiful plush landscape and graceful castles; Bateaux Nantais (http://bateaux-nantais.fr; tel. 02-40-14-51-14) arranges these trips which depart twice daily in summer (and several times weekly the rest of the year) just north of Ile de Versailles on the Quai de la Motte. The cruise lasts 1 hr., 45 min. and costs 15.50€; they also run lunch and dinner options.

Nantes Shopping

As the bustling regional capital, Nantes overflows with shops and boutiques. The principal shopping streets are rue du Calvaire, rue Crébillon, rue Boileau, rue d’Orléans, rue de la Marne, and rue de Verdun. Most of these encompass the shopping districts around place Graslin, place Royale, the château, and the cathedral. The Passage Pommeraye (pictured), a historic gallery that dates back to 1843, houses a small, upscale shopping center with a contemporary extension nearby.

A handful of antiques shops can be perused on rue Jean Jaures such as Antiquités Dubois, at no. 29 (tel. 02-40-47-78-18), offering 18th- and 19th-century furniture and decorative pieces such as historic mantels. Further historic knickknacks can be picked through every Saturday at the flea market in Place Viarme.

For some local gastronomic specialties, start filling your basket at La Fraiseraie, 13 rue de la Marne (www.lafraiseraie.com; tel. 02-51-72-13-18) which sells a variety of jams, juices, and candies made from famous Pornic strawberries. More tasty treats can be picked up at Gautier Debotte, 9 rue de la Fosse (tel. 02-40-48-23-19), a historic chocolatier established in 1823, and makers of “Le Muscadet Nantais”—a chocolate-covered white grape macerated in local muscadet wine. Other Debotte boutiques are at 2 rue des Hauts Pavé, 3 rue de Budapest, and 15 rue Crébillon (the latter two have tea salons). Finish off your food shopping with some actual bottles of muscadet and a range of other wines and specialty food items at the Maison Maitre, 12 rue de la Paix  (www.maisonlemaitre.fr; tel. 02-40-47-04-12).

Nantes Nightlife

When the sun goes down, the town turns into one big party. On place du Bouffay, place du Pilori, and the pedestrian streets in between, you’ll find lots of cafes and pubs, many with live music and fun people. A younger crowd rules rue Scribe.

Live music fans can catch blues, jazz, or rock concerts at L’Univers Café, 16 rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau (tel. 02-40-73-49-55) while oenophiles won’t be disappointed with the wine lists at the modern Comédie des Vins, 4 Rue Suffren (www.bistrotdelacomedie.fr; tel. 02-40-73-11-68) or the rustic Café de Provence, 2 rue Vauban (www.baravinslaprovencenantes.com; tel. 02-40-48-78-71). On warm summer nights, amble along the Ile de Nantes to the Le Hangar des Bananes (www.hangarabananes.com). These former storage buildings for exotic fruit from the colonies have been converted into a line of bars and restaurants with large terraces.

The hippest location in Nantes, and the town’s leading cultural center, is Le Lieu Unique, 2 rue de la Biscuiterie (www.lelieuunique.com; tel. 02-51-82-15-00). Converted from a 19th-century biscuit factory, the venue offers presentations ranging from plays (in French) to art exhibitions. Admission is free to the dimly lit, concrete-floored bar at ground level, which is frequented by students and artists who pack the dance floor. The restaurant here also has the same vibe. The bar is open Monday 11am to 8pm, Tuesday and Wednesday 11am to midnight, Thursday 11am to 2am, Friday and Saturday 11am to 3am, and Sunday 3 to 8pm.

For dancing, head to the stylish Le Royal Club Privé, 7 rue des Salorges (www.leroyal.fr; tel. 02-40-69-11-10). Be sure to dress up, avoid jeans and sneakers, and be prepared to pay 15€ to 20€.